Batteries are fully charged to 13.3 volts each. Trickle charge current flows when power is on. When AC power removed, I get power to the backup receptacles for about 2 seconds, then I hear a relay click and they turn off. Under this condition, the yellow light is on steadily (even after the receptacles click off). I do not see a red light (alarm) under any conditions. So I think the batteries are good (I tried it out with a fresh battery too and the problem remains).
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I see lots of people have trouble with their batteries for their various USB connected devices. Unfortunately you cannot usually charge a totally flat battery, or even a 1/2 charged one... from the USB port. These are only used to "Top Up" the battery... & keep it charged up via a "Trickle Charge". at very low current.If your battery is in this condition then you need to replace it with a fully charged one, and then use the USB to keep it fully charged.Another way is to connect the "Flat" battery up to a power supply or machine that charges them, at the right Voltage (Usually 3 - 6 V) & Current rating, and once fully charged, then use the USB.
check that the charge rate from the alternator is no ac current. A multi meter will show a charge rate of 13.5 to 14.5 volts but that could be unrectified current because of a failed diode in the rectifier in the alternator. Set the meter to read for ac voltage and if you have ac reading then have the alternator overhauled. Have a load test done to check the batteries for a problem cell under load.
charging lights work on the principle of a balanced current throughn the bulb. no charge and the current flows from the battery through the bulb to the alternator. conversly when the alternator is charging at 13.5 volts or better the current is flowing back through the bulb. this opposing current puts out the bulb 12 volt batteries arte in fact 13 volts and alternators charge at 13.8 to 15 volts the 2 odd volts difference is not enough to make the bulb light up. Knowing this it means that some where you have an open circuit that is allowing I suspect battery voltage to make the bulb work. So I would be checking the wiring at the back of the alternator especially the continuinty of the 2 small wires in the connector as I suspect one may be broken in the platsic covering at the fitting The heavier lead is the one that carries the charge directly to the battery
If the battery is boiling through an overcharge it will be hand-hot.
It takes a while for a battery to become so hot.
A new battery and regulator should not cause the excessive cell gassing that would force electrolyte out of the breather.
14.5 volts is high enough above the battery voltage to maintain a steady current flow into the battery that might be too much for a relatively small battery.
Under normal circumstances a vehicle alternator is incapable of charging a battery, the alternator being designed to maintain a fully charged battery and to provide sufficient current to power the vehicle equipment. This is because the high internal impedance of the lead acid battery means it soon achieves the fully charged terminal voltage whether the battery is charged or not and the regulator will then reduce the output to that of a trickle charge.
On the typical car alternator the regulator rapidly switches the energising power to the rotor, reducing the current output even though a simple voltmeter check will be around 14.5 volts.
A permanent magnet alternator produces a constant output. To be honest I don't know how the motorcycle regulator works and whether it limits the current but I do suspect a constant current supply at 14.5 volts will be too much for a small motorcycle battery.
Honda used to go to great lengths using complex switching to reduce alternator output to prevent excessive battery gassing; full alternator power was only available when the headlight was switched on.
I guess it is possible the problem might be there is simply too much electrolyte in the battery or it is being subjected to too much vibration. I suggest you check the current the battery is consuming which with a fully charged battery should be in the region of half an amp.
Harold Do you mean that they won't fully charge or won't charge at all. If you have the small 12/12 batteries then they do not last as long as the U1 batteries (bigger) If you have the U1 batteries check the voltage of the batteries with a volt meter Fully charged should read over 12 volts and up to 13.5 volts. Also check your charger to make sure that it is charging with a voltmeter you can measure the voltage aith the charger plugged in and you should be reading over 13 volts on each battery. Hope this helps you
If you are getting juice to the battery terminal and the batteries are not charging it is because the batteries have fallen under 12 voltsDC. If the system detects batteries that are depleted that low,it cant bring them back up. So you will need to get the batteries on a trickle charger or slow car charger. That way you can bring them back up to around 12 volts each. At that point the inboard charger can do the rest.