How to remove the base?

voltage regulator is bad. Most likey bad caps.

The HP is a flat screen monitor used with many desktop computers. When the LCD on your HP monitor goes white, it is an indication that your monitor's inverter board has gone bad. The inverter board is a small circuit board that transfers power from the monitor's main circuit board to the LCD screen. Replacing the inverter board means dismantling the HP monitor.

1. Power down your computer and unplug the HP monitor cable from the back of your desktop. Disconnect the power cable from the back of the monitor. Relocate the monitor to a flat work surface. Place the monitor with the screen facing downward.

2. Remove the Phillips-head screws from the monitor's base stand and from the back cover. Lift the base stand off of the monitor and remove the back cover. Peel away the foil from inside the monitor around the internal circuit board.

3. Locate the inverter board near the bottom of the monitor's casing. Unplug the power cables from either side of the inverter. Loosen the Phillips-head screws from the inverter board. Lift the old inverter out of the monitor's casing and set it aside.

4. Place the new inverter inside the monitor. Replace the Phillips-head screws and fasten it in place. Reconnect the power cables to the connectors on each side of the new inverter. Replace the foil around the outside of the main circuit board.

5. Replace the back panel and base stand, and their retaining Phillips-head screws

I hope you find it very helpful.
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If the brightness issue is simply the setting: open the OSD (press the left most button) Highlight the Graphics option sub menu (by pressing the Function button, the second one from the left). This has an icon with three vertical bars (labeled RGB). Press the third button from the left to navigate to Brightness. Then use the +/- Adjustment buttons to change the brightness.

Unfortunately, this may be a symptom of a failing backlight (if you can see a dim image). These are sandwiched on the perimeter of the TV (usually under some tape that holds the lamp, reflector and other parts together. You need to order by length and width and get ones for your TV size. Separate the panel from the bezel. Remove the tape, and separate the reflector (make a note of how things are put together) then you have to Dremel (or use another rotary tool) to remove the plastic to get the backlight out. (They are often molded into the frame.) Then put in the new backlight and reassemble everything. For more information, seehttp://www.lcdparts.net/howto/default.aspx but for an overview: http://www.inventgeek.com/Projects/BacklightFix/overview.aspx Then push the new backlights into place, reconnect the wires and close up the sandwich of tape and other parts around the screen. Then replace it in the bezel.

With a good spare backlight, you can test an inverter for condition (plug together and turn on the tv while the box is open). Similarly a good inverter can test the backlight. Usually if the inverter fails, you will not see any image on the screen. However the inverter is easier to check or replace. For an out-of-warranty TV, open up the back of the TV and remove the shielding. Look for any scorch marks or bulging or damaged capacitors. (Sometimes other parts will fail on this part but these can be spotted easily. Capacitors look like cylinders on a tripod.) The scorch mark and smoke may indicate a resistor or zener diode that had been used as a fuse and is now gone.

If you borrow (or have a) high-end multimeter (able to measure high frequencies - 50 kHz) or an oscilloscope, hold the multimeter probes a fraction of an inch apart about an inch above the inverter board and power up the TV. If you see a 1 or an actual value, you have a good inverter. If you see a reading near 0, the board is bad or the multimeter can't resolve the frequency.

In either case, you can buy a replacement inverter for $50-150 and just do a simple swap. Disconnect all of the wires (connections are similar to molex and ribbon cables in a computer) and remove board (a few screws usually). Connect the cables to the new inverter. (If you google backlight inverter replacement, you'll find videos and text descriptions.) Note the part number on the board, including the Rev number, and order the exact one (shopjimmy.com or lcdparts.net are good starting points). Universal inverters do exist but can result in reversed controls (up to lower the brightness). Replacing individual parts on the board is cheaper but more prone to not tracking down all of the bad parts.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

More than likely it is a bad inverter board, I've worked on lots of these units and the majority of the issue with the dark screen is the inverter board.

Remove the 765's casing. If you don't have a star shapped screwdriver use a flat head which sits tight in the screwheads diagonals. Once removed, observe the 765's driver chip which sits behind the recording deck mechanism of the left hand deck. With the power cord disconected carefully remove this chip by gently working a flathead driver between the chip and it's base (the chip is not soldered to it's base but take care not to bend the pins) Once removed, power up the unit for a few seconds making sure that you do not touch the live internal workings. Remove the power cord again and switch the power button on for a few seconds(with no power chord attached) to allow the units capacitors to discharge fully . Gently replace the driver chip. Replace the cover and switch the unit on again. The unit should reboot and the gremlins should be gone.

Could be a problem with the mainboard, or the tube in the screen, or you recieved a dead lcd inverter.
If your not getting voltage to the inverter, but you can see a picture correctly on an external monitor, you may have a bad cable, or mainboard.
Check all fuses near where the lcd cable connects to the mainboard (you may need to look on the reverse (underneath side) of the board.

On one acer I'm currently working on,(that had a smashed screen, I installed a replacement screen, and had the same issue. So I replaced the inverter - same. I tried a good test tube on the inverter - nothing. I then disassembled the notebook and removed the mainboard. On the opposite site to the lcd connector I found a fuse labelled F2 (near a larger fuse labeled F1). This has shorted out.

I would test this before assuming the new inverter is dead.
I suspect that by replacing that you will get power to the inverter.

Unfortunately I dont know the rating of the fuse, however. I presume 12v but no idea on amp rating

Good luck

Inverters use high power transistors to create an A/C voltage from a D/C input. These transistors are the common point of failure when the units are not cooled properly or used beyond their rated capacity. (Actually, you should always buy an inverter that’s rating for continuous use is well below what your actual need is). What’s most likely happened is that these have shorted out and need to be replaced. Unfortunately, replacement parts alone will likely cost nearly what a new unit costs.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news; but you basically have a nice paperweight with some pretty lights and fans on it.

Your inverter is dying. It produces ~2k volts for the ccfl (cold cathode fluorescent lights) that surround your display. At a few milliamps. Probably bad or leaking capacitors on the inverter or power supply board. So it is either using too much power (bad ccfl) or a weakening power supply (higher likely).
It could be cold solder connections becoming intermittent. Remove the base, remove the screws on the backside, and split the case CAREFULLY. Inspect the power supply and inverter for obvious failure or leaking capacitors. Replace same... If your lucky, it will work.
tom

Usually in these cases the power supply would be the issue, but you say the OSD window shows up clearly, So the LCD panel is good and the Power Supply /inverter depending on which your FPD has.
FPD 1830 should have 3 boards(logic, Inverter, Power) otherwise just 2(logic, power)

If it is super dim, the problem is the inverter. Or the Power Supply if the inverter is embedded

Otherwise what your issue is the logic board, if you can swap out that part for a good one, Chances are for sure that you will have a spanking new FPD working.

I've worked with these a lot. Im working on one right now.
I hope this helps
Wish you luck
Victorsinferno45