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Why won't the compressor engage on my out door a/c condenser unit, when 122 volts are present at the compressor and there is a full charge on the a/c system.

Posted by Chris Copenbarger on


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Jim Glover

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If this a system on a home. You should have 230v to the compressor. If this is a window unit rated for 120v and the compressor is not hot then you mostly have open windings in the compressor and the compressor is dead.

Posted on Jan 27, 2013


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  • 182 Answers

SOURCE: Copleland scroll compressor failure

Make sure ALL moisture and noncondensables are evacuated while the system is down.I would have the line flushed to remove all remnants of burnout.Actually with the age of the unit and amount that needs repaired I would change the unit out to a 410a system and start over.

Posted on Nov 02, 2008



  • 747 Answers


The high side/low side pressure equalization you describe is normal for a compressor sitting idle.

If you have an ohm meter you can check the compressor windings for opens and shorts. If your compressor is 3 phase as you state (this would be very unusual for a residential unit) you should have continuity across all 3 phases and no continuity to ground. Take the compressor out of the circuit before you check.

If the compressor does have crankcase heat, it should have been left on for at least 24 hours before starting the unit. Another cause for failure could be overcharging which could have resulted in refrigerant slugging back to the compressor.

Does the unit have any low or high pressure control safeties? If so, check them too - some have resets. You said the condenser fan ran so it's not likely the breaker blew, but check anyway and also check to make sure you have available power on all 3 phases.

Posted on May 03, 2009


  • 158 Answers

SOURCE: p8 eroor code

P8 error is abnormal pipe temperature indoor. If you are running it on heating P8 error will appear because the disc pressure is too high. It could be overcharged.

Posted on Jun 01, 2009


  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: compressor not turning on

is the compressor actually turning over ?? if not check the contactor, or capacitor is actually ok...

if it does turn over, are the stop valves open ??

Posted on Jun 16, 2009


  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: Condenser fan turns slowly and then compressor shuts down

clean bushing and allign them very well.

Posted on Jul 30, 2009

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  • Dirty condenser -- The condenser is the heat exchanger mounted in front of the radiator. It cools the high pressure refrigerant vapor after it exits the compressor so it can condense into a liquid. If the condenser is full of leaves, bugs and road debris, air flow through the unit may be blocked to the point where little cooling occurs. Cleaning the condenser should cure the problem.
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  • Air or moisture contamination -- For the refrigerant inside the system to do its job properly, it must not be contaminated with air or moisture. Air reduces the cooling efficiency of the system while moisture can freeze and form ice that causes blockages in orifice tubes and metering valves. Air and moisture contamination may be the result of unrepaired leaks in the system, or failing to vacuum purge the system prior to recharging it with refrigerant.
  • Blockages -- Debris, rust or debris in the system may plug up the orifice tube or metering valve that admits refrigerant into the evaporator. If this vital point becomes obstructed, the flow of refrigerant may be restricted or blocked causing a loss of cooling -- and possible compressor damage as well in systems that rely on oil circulating with the refrigerant for lubrication.
  • Mechanical problem -- These include things like metering valve failures, compressor wear, a compressor clutch that fails to engage, bad pressure switches, etc.
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