The freezer is fully defrosted and will not resume a cold temp.

Is the compressor running? If not - the timer could be stuck in defrost mode. If it is ruinning, then the freezer coil should be cold. If it is choked with frost & ice - then the defrost heater isn't getting powered (bad timer or defrost terminator - or is getting powered but has burned out.

You should allow the ice and frost to melt completely before turning back on again. Typically ice and frost don't build up so bad in a few days time to cause the temperature rise you're describing If getting cold - the compressor and refrigerant is likely OK, if not the defrost circuit is suspect. If compressor running but not getting cold - a refrigerant leak / charge level may be causing the problem.

Yup, these timers have a tiny clock motor that can get lint on them, causing motor failure, should be simple replacement. Refrigerators in cold garages run more to regulate their temperature below 45 degrees.

have you checked the door switch for each door? the lights should still work in defrost mode but not fans or compressor.

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it can
be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if FREEZER CONTROL is turned warmer which makes REF. colder or vice versa.
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
MORE TIPS AND TRICKS:
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STOP PAYING FOR EXPENSIVE WATER FILTERS FOR YOUR REF. DO THIS====
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Leo Ponder
imufo2
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ITWILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED.

Either the defrost circuit has failed or the refrigerant is low - my money is on the defrost circuit.

Most defrost circuits have three main parts:

1) defrost electric heating coil
2) defrost terminator
3) defrost timer.

The heating coil and terminator are in the freezer compartment - behind a protective panel. The heater is usually piggy-backed on the freezer coil and the terminator is in contact with the freezer coil to detect its temperature. The defrost timer is a simple assembly of a clock motor with switch contacts that can be located anywhere the manufacturer desires. The timer turns on or enables the defrost circuit every 8 or so hours for up to 30 minutes give or take.

When the timer has enabled the defrost cycle, the cooling mode ceases; the compressor shuts off and power is sent through the terminator to the heater. The heater warms and melts any ice build up on the freezer coil. The water drips to a pan and flows down the tube to a pan under the fridge - where it is evaporated off. The heater warms the freezer coil until either a) the timer returns to cooling mode or b) the terminator senses a preset rising temperature on the freezer coil. Once either condition is present, power is interupted and heating stops. The compressor is energized through the adjustable thermostat in your fridge. Since it is warm, the compressor turns on and cooling begins.

If any of the components listed above (1,2 or 3) have failed, the defrost cycle never warms the freezer coil and the ice never melts to clear the freezer coil as intended. Air can not be circulated through the freezer coil since it is choked with ice, so even though the compressor runs, the fridge and freezer spaces never get colder. The adjustable thermostat never sees the temperature you've set so the compressor never shuts off.

Water dripping in the fridge is melting ice from the freezer space - as the freezer is not getting colder - only the protected space around the freezer coil is.

To fix this, you'll have to get the service manual or schematics for the fridge to determine where the parts are located and do some troubleshooting with a multimeter after disassembling the freezer compartment and wherever else to access the timer if needed. This is not a good first appliance repair job for a DIYer due to the danger of refrigerant and testing live electrical parts in closed in spaces.

I hope this helps.

In most cases, there is a device located in or on the evap that senses the temp of the evap. This can be a defrost terminator/fan delay. Sometimes they are separate devices and sometimes they are a 2 in 1 device. If the evap does not get cold enough, the fans will not come on. Usually about +20 degree F. It is to prevent circulating warm air after a defrost and to keep from overloading the compressor after a defrost as heat is generated by electric elements. I would look to see if the defrost terminator / fan delay has malfunctioned, then I would check the refrigeration system performance.

Freezers have a sensor that is referred to as a "Fan Delay/Defrost Terminator". It senses the temp during the defrost cycle. Usually, when the evap temp reaches about 50 degrees, there should not be any frost or ice on it. This device terminates the defrost cycle. It also keeps the fans off so warm air is not circulated. When the evap gets to about 20 degress or so, the sensor switches on the evap fans. If the fans are not coming on, either the sensor is bad or the evap is not reaching the proper temp to cause the sensor to turn on the fans.

Hope is helps to clear up some things and point you in a direction as to what might be going on.

Hi..

Try to check this

• Check the temperature setting
• Assure that there is enough room for air flow in the refrigerator or freezer
• Check for air flow restrictions in vents
• Test the temperature control
• Clean the condensor coils
• Check the door seals
• Test the door switch
• Test defrost heater
• Test defrost timer
• Test evaporator fan
• Check for a clogged drain tube
• Check for refrigerant leak

Good luck!!!

Regards
PCmania

If this is a self defrosting freeze,then it is normal to periodically see an elevated reading during a defrost cycle. At 20 degrees, it was probably ready to complete its defrost cycle and come back on to return it to your cold setting.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_dc2f9e0a44104720

thermostat is stuck closed, if not compressor relay is stuck closed, if not then the defrost timer is stuck closed. test the components in that order.