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I had the exact same thing, no sound at all but light on and heatsink slightly warm. Returned amp module to Wharfedale and it was diagnosed as a fault in the muting circuit and repaired under warranty. Asked for a circuit diagram but they don't give them out while the equipment is still in production.
Its internal amp is for its own subwoofer ONLY, but if you use your own amp's full-range speaker-level outputs to feed two chanels entering the sub you can tag the 'floorstanders' onto the sub's speaker terminals as speaker wire extenders. Your amp will be powering the floor units.
I'd keep the sub separate and feed it LFE only if it was mine.
Though it may have become damaged in the original problem, the driver won't make loud sounds by itself in the absence of a signal. The internal amp is probably malfunctioning and it is very capable of destroying its own driver. Don't let it continue when it starts acting up.
Did it work correctly for more than 5 minutes after the driver replacement? Take it back and make them do it right this time.
I had a powered sub amp problem that the local guy couldn't fix so I just disconnected it and wired the driver directly out to a separate amp. Works fine as a passive sub.
Hooking up a subwoofer is dependent upon what hookups are availble on the receiver and subwoofer. Does your receiver have a specific subwoofer output? If so, is it set of speaker-wire terminals, or is it an RCA jack? The Wharfedale can accomodate either one of these as an input. There are four speaker posts on the back of the subwoofer, and there is a single RCA jack input.
You may have a break in the wire. You can find out by slowing moving your fingers down the wire until you notice sound coming from the subwoofer. You can fix it yourself by cutting about an inch away from the break both ways. Then cuttings some of the wire off, so the copperwire is exposed. then wrap the two copperwire ends together and seal it with elections tape. or Try replacing the 60 watt subwoofer wire.