RCA mod# F31317 (svc# F31317-YX53), Chassis# CTC203CA6
This is another try for any other possible checks or solutions. One prior submitted solution to check several resistors on the CRT board failed to find any problem. I am still open for any suggestions. Is it just a boat anchor or a repairable unit (within reasonable costs)? Does anyone have a schematic?
Unit is approx 6 years old (per prod. date). Lost blue in picture. Picture has a sepia-like appearance. Reds are still good and green is there also. No noises occurred and there was no indication of a failure prior to the loss of blue in picture. Found service mode label inside case. Checked the blue control parameters. No adjustment can be made to the blue switches that have any effect on picture color quality. The red and green can be adjusted. The first 3 parameters are codes and each one shows code 24. I cannot find any info to define these codes. Checked the circuit board attached to the rear of the tube for cracked solder joints. No cracks visible but I touched a solder iron to each to attempt a possible fix to no effect. Checked all plug-in connections for tightness and cleanliness, NPF. I have not removed the main board to check for solder joint integrity. There are no visible damages or failures on the main board.
I have a 36" Toshiba Tube TV that is about 9 years old now. Here is what seems to be the trouble. First the TV had a terrible blue tint for about two days and then fine blue lines in the picture. Now the blue has gone away completely and I have the choice of a picture that is too Red or Too green. No idea what to do. Don't really think it's worth repairing even though the picture is still sharp and clear.
I have a 36" Toshiba Tube TV that is about 9 years old now. Here is what seems to be the trouble. First the TV had a terrible blue tint for about two days and then fine blue lines in the picture. Now the blue has gone away completely and I have the choice of a picture that is too Red or Too green. No idea what to do. Don't really think it's worth repairing even though the picture is still sharp and clear.
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168 Answers
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This symptom is characterised by the loss of one or two primary colours. this symptom can be classified into three cases: 1) loss of red colour, 2) loss of colour blue,3) loss of green color. this symptom may be caused by a trouble in the colour demodulator, in the color amplifier or in the colour subtraction amplifier circuit. in your case loss of blue colour. this is a very complicated problem that you need some special test equipment like oscilloscope and color pattern generator in order to trace the signal. tune the receiver to a color broadcast station(a colour bar generator can be used to transmit a colour signal to the set). check the Z-axis demodulator, z-axis amplifier and the B-Y output circuit for the chroma signal. observe the signal process with an oscilloscope. if the color signal is not present use a VOM to locate the defective component in any of the above circuits. check the transistors and the resistors in the collector circuit. good luck!
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Fault with the main power supply regulator board. Check and replace damaged component/s at its main power regulator [SMPS] section circuit. Contact any service technician. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Surf the site with patience. Pull up older posts. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
Your convergence amplifier has failed.
There are a few things that usually cause that in that particular chassis design, the most likely one being that you have lost part of the power supply to the convergence amplifier power supply board.
You may be able to repair it yourself if you're good at soldering, and dis-assembly / re-assembly.
Look for a 400ma fuse that's opened near the FBT, and re-solder all the connections in that area. Also check to see if any diodes have shorted around it too.
Good luck.
Most likely you have a bad highvoltage transformer and possibly a shorted horizontal output transistor. The transistor can be checked with a volt/ohm meter. Check collector to base. It should be over 1000 ohms. The transformer can be tested for inductance with an inductance meter or "ringer". One or both of these can cause the problem you described.
1.--Look under the CTR ( picture tubes) for leak coolant , all the times this set leaking, if is positive, use alcohol 90% with a bottle spray, clean the area, tied screws gasket ctr and let dry for 6 hours minimum.
2.--Loose connections on the left chassis ( convergence board), re solder ( look for possible resistor born)
the front panel assembly is rca part # 237420
I assume your chassis is a CTC203
Un plug the fpa and see if problem still acts up
you may not be able to find one
then try replacing the sticking buttons on it
R14109=750ohms 5% 1/4w
(Resistor(750r5%.25W/R14109/179317)
There is much more likely wrong with the TV. Resistor don't normally burn out with help, say, without a failing flyback transformer and possibly taking a transistor or two with it.
If you need the manual, go to
http://www.samswebsite.com/photofact/pf_search.asp
and type in "F31317" into the search field, you will several listings.
If you decide to replace it yourself, here's some more part numbers in case you need them.
Model: RCA\F25422TX41
Symptom: Dead
Necessary parts: Transistor(Q14401)
Main Voltage regulator Q14101
Resistor R14109 open.
Research indicated the flyback transformer most probably bad
\\CTC203AC4\HOT/D2578(Q14101/242224)*
Flyback(14536119A/T14401/244229)*
Main reg(P9NBSO/Q14101/244223)
\Reg(MPS8599/Q14102/147665)
Resistor(750r5%.25W/R14109/179317)
Reg(MPSA06/Q14103/232218)
Hope this helps you.
ZT3000
"Beta tester of "0"s and "1's"
Check for an open R15103 on the CRT drive board. It may have been one of those discolored ones you noticed. I think it is a 10,000 ohm 2 watt resistor. You may want to replace R15101 and R15102 at the same time to prevent those from going out as well if the 15103 resistor measures open after you remove it from the neck board.
I have a 36" Toshiba Tube TV that is about 9 years old now. Here is what seems to be the trouble. First the TV had a terrible blue tint for about two days and then fine blue lines in the picture. Now the blue has gone away completely and I have the choice of a picture that is too Red or Too green. No idea what to do. Don't really think it's worth repairing even though the picture is still sharp and clear.
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