Continues to freeze

Hi,

please increase the temperature in the fridge portion of your fridge as it sounds like you've set that compartments temperature too low.

Thank you.

Suggest lowering the refrigerator set point to a lower number such as 3. There is usually an indication of normal setting on the adjustments. Wait 24 hours and check the refrigerator compartment again. Use a thermometer to record the temperatures. The meat compartment will be normal just below freezing. If no success then read the following.

One reason that this occurs is that the unit is working near continuously to reach the freezer temperature. Another words the unit is not capable or cooling the freezer to the prescribed temperature. The result is the excess cooling eventually reaches the refrigerator section causing the refrigerator to freeze. The unit will if this is the case run nearly continuously. This situation is counter intuitive. Freezer not reaching set point, excessive cooling over cools refrigerator therefore refrigerator freezes.

The cause is either the freezer door/seal is not closing or sealing the freezer compartment or the compressor or defrost cycle is not functioning properly.

Check the freezer door seal using a strip of paper. Check to see if air is flowing from the vents in the freezer. Using a thermometer check the temperature of the freezer. Listen for and record if the compressor is running or not.

The normal freezer temperature is around '0' Fahrenheit. If no or little air is flowing from freezer air vents look for ice on the back wall. If ice is present it is likely the auto defrost cycle is not working. Attempt to defrost by hand which requires several hours with everything removed.

Check that lint and dust has not blocked the coils under the unit and that the lower fan is running. Usually warm air exits from the machine grill in the front. Remove the grill and check for air flow and debris buildup. Vacuum if necessary.

And unfortunately if the compressor runs continuously and no air blockage underneath would indicate that the cooling capacity is reduced requiring a major service or replacement.

Hope this helps?

The settings are "relative". Someone with this fridge in Montana may need to run the same fridge with different settings than someone in Texas to get the same temperatures.

Many manufacturers recommend that the fresh food compartment should be 34 degrees F, and the freezer -10 to 0 degrees F. To set this properly, place a thermometer in the freezer (that can display temperatures as low as the desired temperature). Adjust the thermometer for the correct freezer temperature before going on to the fridge. A fully stocked freezer could take 12 hours or more for temperatures to stabilize after making changes to the thermostat. Once the -10 to 0 degree temperature has been achieved, set the fresh food compartment temperature.

Place a thermometer (that can display below freezing) in a 6 (or so) oz flexible plastic cup of water and place on a shelf in the fridge. A glass of water could break if the temperature gets below 32 degrees if the water turns to ice. The water acts as a buffer to rapidly changing temperatures when the door is opened to read the thermometer. If the fridge is "full", allow 24 hours for the temperature to stabilize before making changes.

If the fridge and freezer are empty, changes may be seen in just a few hours or less. Otherwise, wait the 12 / 24 hours for the freezer / fridge compartments.

I hope this helps and good luck!

First thing to try is Powering off the FF at the mains supply and leaving it standing for 30 minutes. Make sure that you do not open any of the doors or touch any of the controls during this time. Then reconnect the power and wait for 30 to 60 minutes to see if the fault remains or is cured. Try completely defrosting the FF as despite common belief these units are not totally frost free.

In side by sides if the freezer side is working OK and the fridge side is not working correctly it means that air ducting has iced up or the air vent from the freezing unit to the fridge compartment has stuck in the closed or partially closed position which causes the fridge to not be any where near as cool as it should be. If it is too cold then the vent is stuck in the open position and the fridge temperature will continue to fall and become the same as the freezer, thereby freezing the contents of the fridge compartment. It can also get stuck in another position so that if the temperature is adjusted on the front panel then nothing happens to the temperature in the fridge compartment. The vent, which is usually at the top of the fridge compartment on the side where it joins the freezer compartment, is controlled by a small sync motor and either the motor has become faulty, the control module is faulty or the vent is iced up. It can be come iced up by putting too many hot items in the fridge so the steam condenses and freezes the vent in position and then the motor cannot open or close it causing it and / or the control module to become faulty. Other times it is just old age that causes the motor and / or the control module to fail. If the sync motor and vent are working OK then there may be a fault with the fridge temperature sensor or main on board controller that will mean that the sensor or the controller will need replacing.

This is a drawback of most mini-fridges. Start by defrosting everything. Then fill ice cube trays with water and keep lowering the setting until the water freezes. Just go a little lower, no more. Fridge should not freeze food. If the fridge stays closed all the time food will freeze. Also if the freezer element gets ice buildup it must be defrosted. Not automatic like home fridge. Most kids today weren't born when the last fridges that had to be defrosted were in service.

Hi,maybe I can shed a little light.I don`t know where the defrost timer is,but I would melt the ice with a hair dryer and real warm water(it will make a mess so be ready).There will be a drain inside of the freezer compartment,on the inside.Some how the rear panel inside the freezer compartment comes out.You may have to take apart the whole inside of the freezer compartment just to remove this rear panel.But when you do look for ice build up on bottom of freezing unit,and the rearof the freezer compartment.Melt this ice the same way earlier described.You will find a drain that starts inside the bottom-rear of the freezer compartment.This drain goes all the way down to the bottom of the fridge.You will find a very shallow drip pan under the fridge.This pan will most of the time only receive a little amount of water at a time and evaporates quickly.Now while you thaw this drain,water will start draining threw the drain,if it is not stoped up with food particles and such.This would be a good tome to blow threw this ine from the bottom where it drains into the pan underneth the fridge.Then blow threw it at the top in the freezer compartment.You can use a air tank with a blow gun.Be sure to pour water threw and down this drain to wash out all particles left behind.Clean the freezer compartment out good(the particles of food and such) and reassemble the freezing unit.plug fridge back up and set the freezer control to a respectfull setting(not the coldest and not real cold)and set the frideration to a decent setting for food preservation. Let the fridge and freezer run 12 to 24 hours to see if your problem comes back,and then time will tell if your defrost timer is bad,or is working like it should.When the drain clogs,it starts freezing away from the defrost elements and continues freezing the blocked water untill it overtakes the coils .The defrost and the timer don`t stay on long enough,or hot enough to overcome the ice.This is the reason you should try this solution first.If I can help you anymore,let me know [email protected] /let me know how it turns out

Really need to know what motor(s) are running (compressor, evap fan inside freezer compartment, condenser fan under fridge)?? Of course, check your temperature (thermostat) settings. Side-by-sides usually have 2 of them. They should be labled for refridgerator and freezer. The freezer control usually only opens a baffle from the freezer compartment to the refridge compartment. The refrigerator temp control is the one that controls the compressor on-off cycles and the temp of refrig compartment (this keeps the refrig compartment from freezing the milk and cokes) If the freezer control/baffle is set too far open, this will cause the refrig temp control to shut off too soon for the freezer temp to get low enough. These controls can get bumped out of the correct setting accidently from time to time.
To check the following, the fridge has to be running, or in a condition where it "should be" running: If compressor is running (condenser fan should be too), check if evaporator fan (inside freezer) is running. Open (freezer) door and hold door light switch in when you check evaporator fan operation (some fans stop when door is open) If it is not running you may have a bad evaporator fan motor. It could also be a bad defrost timer, causing the evaporator (also inside back of freezer) to ice-up. This blocks the air flow over evap. Also, there is a defrost terminator switch on the evaporator coil that stops the defrost cycle when coil is clear of ice/frost (but timer hasn't ended defrost cycle). If it is defective, that could also keep the fridge from going into the defrost cycle, or taking it out too soon. If it is the timer, change the defrost terminator as well. Depending on how handy you are, you may be able to check/change any of these parts yourself. If you don't know much about elecrical stuff, you should leave it to a repair tech. Hope this helps.

try this,make sure you dont have anything blocking your blower in the freezer.if that is okay if you have seperate controls for the freezer and the fridge,try setting the frige setting lower and the freezer higher,this makes the blower work more in the freezer.hope it helps.

Defrost system problem. Could be in heaters, defrost thermostat, or defrost timing circuit. Freezing in vegetable section is due to air back flow related to frozen evaporator coil in freezer compartment.
Colder air settles and warmer air raises.

Ice maker problem is separate. Bar up engages micro switch that is supposed to shut it off. Bad micro-switch?