Question about Beko Washing Machines
Hello everyone, I am having issues with my Beko DRCS68W condenser tumble dryer. It started when the drum got stuck last month and broke the belt. I cleaned out the lint and replaced the belt but it wouldn't heat up inside the drum. I then replaced the heater element with a brand new one as the old one does look as though it probably overheated when the drum stuck. I have since put it all back together and it still doesn't heat. I have tried the reset button on the thermostat of the heater but that didn't do anything, there seemed to be current running though the heater but not the thermostat. Used a voltmeter for this, not my ******... I have since tried to set it into reset mode by setting it to delicates, holding down the buzzer/cancel button for 10 seconds but it just stays the same with only the drying light illuminated. Is there any other way to enter the reset mode?? Can anyone help me to try and get this heating again as that is all that remains before I have to spend £60 on a Beko callout charge.
If there is voltage on the thermostat but not going through even when the temperature is down it is possible that this could be defective. Now check using a multimeter to confirm the continuity on the thermostat and if the reset switch on this - if present - is off, if so press it down.
Now confirm the voltage from the control panel during the heating cycle and if voltage is outputted then it must flow. The connection must be checked on the heating element- trace to confirm.
Posted on Jul 04, 2012
pete5runner back again: The check you should make is to disconnect the two wires to the heating element carefully (with unit unplugged). Then connect a 110 voltmeter to the two wires. The plug in the machine and start a dry cycle. If you see 110 volts on the voltmeter, then you know that power is getting to the heating element, and you have isolated the heating element as defective. If you need a heating element, I got one in NY by calling 718-767-7396. New element was $29, shipping included. I don't know if he will ship to where you are located. Good luck, and let me know what happens.
Posted on Mar 21, 2008
Sorry I'm way late with this but I've only just noticed it. Unplug the machine from the mains! Remove the lid (with a torx screwdriver) and you'll notice a small circular device with 2 leads attached on the top of the machine, in the centre there's a small button, press it and it should click......you've fixed it This is a thermal cutout safety device designed to switch the drying heater off if it becomes too hot. The probable cause for this is that you've over filled the machine and the air didn't circulate freely. as a rule of thumb, dry 1/2 as many clothes as you wash.
Posted on Apr 26, 2008
i am a retired engineer of 20 years, and its about a year since i worked on combination washer/dryers but if the heater elements fine and power comes from timer there must be cut out somewhere around where it should warm up, look all round the machine one may be hidden or hard to spot there maybe about 3 one of them one of them could be a trigger device (you can press a button to reset it) that style is a very small cube about the size of a sugar lump with2 spades on it, others look like a small flat oval or round shape the size of a five pence piece with 2 spade wires on them, remove the plug from wall and remove these spades and check the contacts for continuity, you need not remove from machine to do so, no circuit + no heat, replacement item not expensive, thats where to start based on the information given, check the sensors you mention again, it sounds like your so close, good luck and work safe
Posted on Sep 09, 2007
SOURCE: Dryer does not dry clothes
On the top of the heater box there is a thermal fuse that blows if the dryer overheats, on this model it could occur if the air circulation fan is faulty, or the condenser valve is faulty, alternatively the sump hose filter may be blocked, only a closer inspection of these items will determin which the problem is.
Posted on Nov 17, 2007
I seem to end up inside my DQW150 about once every three months with dryer problems.
With the symptoms you're describing, and working from easiest to fiddliest, I'd start with checking for a blockage in the drain pump and the hose down to it from the bottom of the tub (drying seems much more sensitive to pump trouble than draining and spinning on this machine).
Then I'd run it with the back off and see if I could see condensing water trickling down the inside of the condenser (translucent duct fitted on the back of the tub). If you can't, it's usually because the solenoid on the cold water valve has burnt out again (this also usually results in the clothes getting much hotter than usual).
EVERYTHING FROM THIS POINT IN NEEDS THE MACHINE DISCONNECTED FROM THE POWER SUPPLY
Next, I'd unscrew the top of the breather tube from the top right hand corner of the case (as you look at it from the back), ease it down so the end rests in a bowl on the floor, and give the corrugated hose that attaches it to the bottom of the condenser a good squeeze to see what comes out. If this breather or its hose get blocked with a slug of wet lint, the dryer becomes amazingly inefficient. If at all suspicious, unclip the hose from the bottom of the condenser and rinse the breather (tube and hose together) through under a warm tap until all the rubbish is gone.
Finally, if none of those things bring any joy, I'd wash the lint out the condenser. This is a slightly fiddly job - the best way I've found is to take off both top and rear panels, then remove the condenser and blower from the machine together out through the top of the machine. Once they are out, they can be split and the condenser can be flushed by running warm water through it. Make sure you've got a good socket set before you begin - Candy don't believe in standardisation, so you will want every size of socket there is from 5.5mm up to 10mm before you're finished. Before putting it back together, have a look at the inside of the blower and check for any evidence of the impeller having become distorted, or of it fouling on its housing. On reassembly, be careful the rubber seal between the blower and the heater duct fits correctly on all four sides (it's easy to get one flange tucked inside the duct), and mind your knuckles as you're replacing the lower of the two blower fixing bolts and the screw which secures the condenser near the top of the tub.
Between them, those things usually cover it.
Posted on Dec 03, 2008
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