My rain gauge always reads zero.

If your Rowe R-81 jukebox arm is not swinging over to play the record, here are a few things you can try:

1. Check the power: Make sure the jukebox is plugged in and turned on. If it's not getting power, the arm won't be able to move.
2. Check for mechanical obstructions: Check the mechanism that swings the arm over to make sure there are no obstructions blocking its movement. This could be something as simple as a piece of debris or dust, or it could be a more serious mechanical issue.
3. Lubricate the mechanism: Over time, the mechanism that swings the arm can become stiff and difficult to move. Try lubricating the mechanism with a small amount of oil or grease to see if that helps.
4. Check the belt: The mechanism that moves the arm may be driven by a belt, which can wear out or break over time. Check the belt to see if it's intact and properly tensioned. If it's worn or broken, it will need to be replaced.
5. Seek professional assistance: If none of these steps work, it may be necessary to seek professional assistance. Jukeboxes can be complex machines, and attempting to repair them yourself could cause further damage. Consider contacting a professional jukebox repair service or a manufacturer's representative for assistance.

While standing at back of mower with the bagger hood in your hands. The black support arm is hanging down, positioned at the back of the mower. At the bottom of the black support arm are two tangs with a gap between them (gap is 2"-3"). The tangs will be inserted into two slots on the towing frame. That is the black panel of the back of the mower. They will not be centered; rather they will be offset to the right side of the tow frame, about mid way up the back.

Lower the hood support so the tangs are horizontal, or parallel to the ground. Once parallel to the ground they will slide into the slots. After they are in the slots, while holding the black support arm steady, raise the two swing arms up to the seat. After raising the swing arms (light brassy color, V shaped connecting rods) then raise the black support arm with the tangs held in the slots. As you raise the black support arm vertically the swing rods will move forward, over the top of the fender, and align with two retaining holes.When the hood is level with the top of the seat you will be able to insert the ends of the swing arms into the holes in the fenders. This will complete installation of the support for the bagging hood. Now follow the locking instructions below.

Note: prior to starting this procedure you may have to remove a spring clip and locking pin (about 6" long and 1/4" round) that runs through the black support arm. It runs right to left through two holes in the support arm, the spring clip locks it in. This pin may be supplied uninstalled. The function of the 6" locking pin is to keep the swing arm in the fender holes after you have everything in place. It must be removed to perform the above installation. After the installation is complete insert the lock pin, right to left, pointy end goes in first, above the swing arms where they meet the black support arm, then insert the locking spring clip in the tiny hole of the locking pin. This locks the swing arms in place.

Mark the spark plug wires for the cylinder number using a short piece of masking tape on each wire. Remove all the spark plugs using the spark plug wrench. The engine will be easier to turn by hand with the spark plugs removed and it's a good time to replace them if required. Remove the valve cover from over the number one cylinder. On a V-block engine this is normally the valve cover on the driver's side. On in-line engines the number one cylinder is the one closest to the front of the car. Check your vehicle's specifications to be sure which cylinder is number one.

Rotate the engine clockwise and observe the valves on the number one cylinder. When both valves are in the up position, insert a screwdriver into the number one cylinder through the spark plug hole. Rotate the engine very slowly back and forth until the screwdriver is at the maximum height. This indicates the number one cylinder is at Top Dead Center or "TDC" on the compression stroke.

Locate the number one spark plug wire on distributor cap and make a tic-mark of this position with a marker pen on the distributor housing. Remove the distributor cap and observe the position of the rotor.

Loosen the distributor hold down bolt and turn distributor until the rotor is lined up with the mark you made in Step 3. Your timing is now set to zero degrees of mechanical timing.

Replace the valve cover using a new gasket. Replace the spark plugs and spark plug wires using the marks from Step 1. You may want to mark the harmonic balancer with a zero point referenced to a fixed point on the engine. A fixed point could be a bolt head or accessory bracket that does not move when the engine is running. Later on this mark can be used as an indicator for stroboscopic timing.

Connect a vacuum gauge to a manifold vacuum source. Most engines will have a port at the base of the carburetor or throttle body where a gauge can be connected. Start the engine and observe the vacuum gauge reading.

Turn the distributor until the maximum vacuum gauge reading is noted. Back off one inch of vacuum from the maximum reading. Tighten the distributor hold down bolt. Normal readings average from 14 to 21 inches of vacuum depending on the condition of the engine.

Test drive the vehicle and listen for pinging noises. Repeat Steps 5 and 6 if excessive pinging is heard, or if there is a significant loss of power. The timing is correct when the vehicle operates at maximum power without the engine hard starting, backfiring, or pinging on acceleration.

Hi, I'm not completely sure how yours is mounted but if your intent is to change the bulbs and or steeper motor, one very wise bit of information I received when I took mine apart was to make sure to mark the true zero position of all gauge set pins before removing cover to access circuit board and steeper motors. To do this I placed small piece of tape on cover near all zero positions of each gauge, moved all gauge pins to true absolute zero position, marked the tape where the pin is at, then safely removed pins with a dining fork for easy even leverage preventing cracking the gauge pins. Once you complete your repair, simply press gauge pins back in place and dial them to properly align them back to the actual zero marks you made on your tape. My project (bulb replacement) was perfectly successful and glad to have gauges read correctly without having to do the job twice, good luck with yours!

Hi, For my pontiac it was a simple kryptonite 12v, 50Ma bi-pin bulb from radio shack. A simple solder procedure. One very wise bit of information I received when I took mine apart was to make sure to mark the true zero position of all gauge set pins before removing cover to access circuit board lighting. To do this I placed small piece of tape on cover near all zero positions of each gauge, moved all gauge pins to true absolute zero position, marked the tape where the pin is at, then safely removed pins with a dining fork for easy even leverage preventing cracking the gauge pins. Once you complete your repair, simply press gauge pins back in place and dial them to properly align them back to the actual zero marks you made on your tape. My project (bulb replacement) was perfectly successful and glad to have gauges read correctly without having to do the job twice, good luck with yours!

the problem with your wipers is that your wiper switch is going bad that is one of the signs, they will eventually go all the way out and wont even come on at all, replacing the switch will cure most likely cure your wiper problem.

Occasionally, customers have problems locking their Dyson vacuum in the upright position. This is a minor problem common with the Dyson DC07 and DC14 series and can easily be fixed by the customer. This page will show how to fix this problem. Although we show a Dyson DC14 Animal on this page, these instructions will work on any Dyson vacuum in the DC07 and DC14 series.

During shipping, moving parts on a Dyson vacuum can shift in position. One of these parts is a swinging arm in the base of the unit. This arm holds a removable elbow pipe in the vacuum's air passage. This arm can move out of the way so that you can clear out a blockage in the air passage. When this arm is out of position, the vacuum will not lock in the upright position. Fig. 1 Shows the base of a Dyson DC14 Animal locked upright. The red arrow points to the swinging arm. Fig. 2 shows the vacuum with the swing arm out of position. Since the swing arm is lower than it should be, it doesn't line up with the tab on the main body indicated by the red arrow.

Lean the handle of your Dyson all the way back and locate the black button on the right side of the vacuum indicated by the red arrow in Fig. 3.. Press the button down and hold it to unlock the swing arm.

While holding down the black button, pull the swinging arm (Shaded red in Fig. 4) all the way up. Fig. 5 shows the swinging arm in the correct position. Release the black button to lock the swing arm back in place.

The vacuum can now lock in the upright position as shown in Fig. 6. Note how the tab on the swinging arm overlaps the tab on the main body..

on this year car there was a problem with the circut boad in the wiper moter, the parking position on the board is broken,you just have to replace the circuit not the motor hope this helps. Thanks Ray, please rate my fix

Hi Vat,
Although I live in Canada now, I was born in the former
Czecholsovakia. While I spent a year in the Czech Republic in
2006, I was amazed how advanced their technology was, in
comparison to Canada or the US. If you want modern technology,
Prague is the place to go. Anyway ...

1) As I said before, do NOT adjust the tone-arm weight up
and down. This setting must be set to match the stylus and
the cartridge !!! The wrong setting is very bad.

To get the weight adjusted correctly, do the following.

a) Check the cartridge and stylus (needle) specifications, on
the WEB if necessary.

A typical tracking weight is between 0.9 grams to 1.5 grams,
but this very much depends on the needle geometry. To much
weight will damage the needle and the record, but

so will too little, because the needle will not stay on the
surface, skipping or mistracking on loud passages.

Note that the tracking acceleration is proportional to the
the square root of the loudness, multiplied by the frequency
squared. So if the tracking force is too low, the needle will
bounce over high frequencies and damage the record as
well as the needle's tip.

2) Once you know the correct force for your needle, adjust
the rear weight for ZERO force, such that the needle just
floats weightlessly in the air. If your turn-table has an anti-
skating adjustment, set that to zero as well.

3) At this point the tone-arm should be totally weightless,
and should neither touch the plater nor swing up/down
by itself. It should float halfway.

4) A this point, adjust the rear weight's dial (not the weight) to
read zero. Note that the dial will slide, while you hold the
weight still. You have now calibrated the tone-arm's zero
point.

5) Now, adjust the weight (with the dial) to read the desired
tracking force, for example 1.25 grams.

6) Now adjust the anti-skating dial to the same number as
the rear weight. This setting compensates for the radial
(towards the center) component of the friction vector,
caused by the needle riding on the record groove, at some
specific (average) tone-arm angle.

7) Your tone arm is now balanced, and you should not
touch it after this, accept for minor adjustments.

For brand new records, you may lighten the tone-arm
by 10%. For old records, you can make it a little heavier.
Similarly, you can adjust the anti-skating to prevent a
record from skipping, but a bad record should be played
only once (and stored on your computer).

8) For some tone-arms and cartridges, the cartridge pitch
(up/down angle) is also adjustable. This requires a special
jig or gauge, supplied by the cartridge manufacturer.

The pitch can be adjusted either by the use of screws or
wedges, and by lowering / raising the rear gimble. On my
Technics SL 1200, the gimble elevation is adjustable with
a large ring, and my SURE V15 cartridge came with a guage
for adjusting it correctly.

9) It may also be possible to adjust the cartridge's yaw and
radius, but all of these adjustments should only be done
using the correct gauges and by strictly following the
cartridge installation manual.

10) NONE of these adjustments should effect the tone-arm
cueing or return process. There should be plenty of
clearence if the cueing mechanism is working properly,
except, perhaps, for the gimble elevation, if the cartridge
is unusually tall.

11) Is the cuing mechanism (i.e. the tone-arm lifter)
mechanical or hydraulic ?

Is it the lift consistent or does the tone-arm drop down
with time?

Does the tone-arm move parallel to the plater, or does the
stylus height change with tone-arm position (yaw)

You are looking for a mechanical defect in the cuing
mechanism.

12) How much over all lift do you get between the down position
and the up position? This should be at least 8 to 15mm

If the cuing mechanism is worn out, it may not move enough.

If it starts too low, it may move enough but not raise the
needle enough to clear the record.

If the cartridge is tracking too low, you may have to
remove some wedges or spacers between the cartridge
and the head, or lift the rear gimble if it is adjustable, or
get a different tone-arm head, that matches the cartridge
profile.

Finally as silly as this sounds, make sure that the
platter is fully dropped and properly engaged. If the
plater is too high, for what ever reason, this would also
cause the needle to drag.

Also make sure that the rubber mat on the plater is the
right one and that it is not too thick.

Martin


installation manual.

see if there is any acces to the fuel tank cover under the rear seat, if it is then remove the screws and remove the sending unit sending unit inside the tank most likelly it will be bad, but if you don't feel like doing it, then take it to your mechanic but seems to be the sending unit inside the tank wich is the sensor trigering your gage is not good and need to be tested and replaced