There is an intermittent fault on the socket of the computer. The circuit makes and breaks if the plug ( 18.5v supply from the PSU) is turned whilst in the socket. The plug fitted on the supply lead from the PSU that fits into the computer socket checks out OK. (no broken wires). Is it worth disassembling to attempt a repair to the socket connections on the inside? If so are there any manuals to show dis-assembly instructions?
It sounds like you just need to replace the laptop's power cord/charger because it's not making a good connection any more.
SOURCE: MSI MS-1010 Power supply socket appears to be loose/damaged.
try to look closely if it can be resoldered. Take note there are some pins that are multi-layer-connected and resoldering might be impossible for the loose parts. Whatever you've done with the connector is what I'm curious with...remember it has a locking tab at one side before you can pull it out. If it's an old mobo you might need to upgrade it with the memory and cpu altogether.
SOURCE: power supply connection intermittent
It is common for all laptops. The DC jack is loose on the main board. It's wise to send it away to one of the many laptop repair facilities....Just Google...Laptop Jack Repair.
SOURCE: zd8000 PC Notebook
http://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/835391-hp-pavilion-zd8000-zd-8000-laptop
Testimonial: "I had already found that HP actually provides this info on their site. Wasn't more than a few years ago that most laptop makers did not."
SOURCE: The socket that the new power lead fits into is
Probably, as long as it's just the jack.
Average cost to replace a laptop power jack is around $85 (USD), but it can vary depending on price and availability of the jack itself, and just how hard it is to get to and replace.
Laptop manufacturers love to stick the power jack on the bottom of the motherboard, underneath EVERYTHING else, so in most cases, the laptop has to be completely disassembled. Replacing the jack itself is usually about 5 minutes, but gettin to it, then putting it all back together takes an hour or so on average. Not to mention, in some cases we are talking about screws so small that I've actually had them get stuck under my fingernail before. Personally, I tend to use a low-temp hot glue gun to try to reinforce the jack once I've replaced it. My repeat repair rate (not warrantied, 're-broke') dropped about 40% once I started doing that.
85 bucks is a lot cheaper than a new laptop.
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A door lock cylinder switch unlock actuation.
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A keyless entry transmitter actuation.
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An automatic door lock actuation (Personalization function).
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An automatic door unlock actuation (Personalization function).
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A last door closed locking (LDCL) actuation (Personalization function).
Door Lock Operation
When the body control module (BCM) detects a transition of either of the door lock switches to the lock position, it switches the door lock actuator lock control circuit to voltage. Since the lock actuator unlock control circuits are at ground potential within the BCM, the door lock actuator motors transition to the lock position.
Driver Door Unlock Operation
When the body control module (BCM) detects a transition of either of the door lock switches to the unlock position, it switches the driver door lock actuator unlock control circuit to voltage. Since the door lock actuator lock control circuit is at ground potential within the BCM, the left front (LF) door lock actuator motor transitions to the Unlock position.
The driver door lock actuator unlock control circuit is a dedicated control circuit used only for the driver door lock actuator motor. This is done so that the driver door may be unlocked by itself using a keyless entry transmitter or an automatic door unlock function (if programmed).
Faulty electrical connections or wiring may be the cause of intermittent conditions. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections.
A factory scan tool would help for checking inputs from the door switches to the BCM ! You could do it with out scan tool , a lot more work involved ! Need a wiring diagram an a component location chart an wiring harness routing diagram !
Most intermittent conditions are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring. Inspect for the following items:
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Wiring broken inside the insulation
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Poor connection between the male and female terminal at a connector
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Poor terminal to wire connection--Some conditions which fall under this description are poor crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over the wire insulation rather than the wire itself, and corrosion in the wire to terminal contact area, etc.
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Pierced or damaged insulation can allow moisture to enter the wiring causing corrosion. The conductor can corrode inside the insulation, with little visible evidence. Look for swollen and stiff sections of wire in the suspect circuits.
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Wiring which has been pinched, cut, or its insulation rubbed through may cause an intermittent open or short as the bare area touches other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
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Wiring that comes in contact with hot or exhaust components
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Refer to Inducing Intermittent Fault Conditions in order to duplicate the conditions required, in order to verify the customer concern.
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Refer to Testing for Electrical Intermittents for test procedures to detect intermittent open, high resistance, short to ground, and short to voltage conditions.
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Refer to Scan Tool Snapshot Procedure for advanced intermittent diagnosis and Vehicle Data Recorder operation.
You should take it to a ASE certified repair shop if not familiar with Automotive electronics !
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