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Kenmore dryer door

I need to switch sides from which the door opens. It looked simple but once I got the door off it seems more complicated. Does anyone know how to do this?

Posted by michael pote on

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Yes u need a phillips head screw driver take the door hinge off and the whole door comes off there are i think six small screws around the plastic take only those off then the plastic will seperate from the metal frame then all you do is switch door hinge sides and reverse the removal no beware once switched u have a very good chance that the door will not close the same or as well as before u have to play with the adjustment of the hinge the best u can after that u can grab the door close to the hinge and very gently but firmly pull up on the door to adjust it but do beware that the hinge can and will break under to much pressure

Posted on Mar 21, 2007

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Sears kenmore dryer model 4179842990

Big job.
The top comes open with a small screwdriver, or better yet a putty knife slipped to the right and left front corners and pried up. You have a plastic clip on either side of the front top which will snap open when pried.
Then, the front of the machine is usually held on with two screws that are inserted into the top front from the top sides, one screw in each side.
The bottom is easier, once the top screws are out, you lift the whole front panel off.
Down at the bottom of the front panel are two clips that go in two holes to hold the panel on.
You will also be unplugging the wire connector to the door switch.
We also had this happen, and if turning your clothes inside out or tying the strings doesn't work, we found to put such items inside a mesh "unmentionables/undergarments" bag stopped the problem.
Be blessed.
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My gas dryer Kenmore 500 series won't start when I push the start button. The light is on in the dryer chamber. The door latches and there is gas running in it.

the one side of the door switch is bad,one side controls the light when the door is open,the other side of this switch makes the unit run when the door is closed,replace the switch,or if you dont care about the door light,reverse the 2 larger connections and it will work again,but no light with door open then
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Kenmore Dryer 70 series Problem: Dryer will not turn on. When the dryer door is closed, the timer does count-down (ticking); however, the drum does not turn and other than the ticking timer, I can...

Sounds like your door switch has gone bad. This is a very simple and ever so easy repair. It will require you to access the internal workings of your dryer. There are step by step instructions on this website of "how to open your dryer" that are really good. A quick search should locate them. Usually a dryer switch is just a couple of screws and a molex (special type of plastic molded electrical connection) or a few spade/wire terminal connections. Make sure the dryer is unplugged before you work on the internal areas or the control panel. Popping the top up is usually done with either a screw driver or putty knife. You should be able to see a small portion of (2) clips where the top meets the rest of the body in the front. A bit of effort is required to get these clips to release. Once open, you will probably have two screws--1 on each side at the top left and right just down a short ways from the top. Removing these should allow the front to come off. Be careful when you remove this. The drum usually rides on the front portion of the dryer and will shift down when the front is removed. Just make sure when you put it back on that it is seated where it should be. The dryer front/door section should lift up off hinges at the bottom. Some of these have screws that attach at the bottom front. You may have to remove these. Once you have the front door off, the door switch should be on the back of the front panel of the dryer. From there it should be a matter of a few screws. If you have a meter, you can check if for continuity. If it has none and the dryer door is still closed, it needs to be replaced. Look for the link for dryer access on here if your dryer is a bit different. A door switch is only about $10 - $20 dollars on line. Make sure you have your model and serial number handy. It is either on the back or on the inside of the dryer door/lip. Hope this helps.
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Dryer has power, buttons on front beep when touched, but dryer will not turn on when you hit the run button, and drum light has quit working, cannot seem to locate my users guide or fine one on-line to...

If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch.
1helpful
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2helpful
1answer

I need to replace a door switch on a Kenmore Dryer

I'm not too familiar with the model but you either have screws that are just above the door (open the door first) or two metal tabs in the front that hold the top on the dryer. The two metal tabs can be seen if you take a flashlight and look where the top meets the front about 8" from each side roughly. A flatblade screwdriver inserted at the top of these fasteners will release them from the top. Next have a 5/16 nut driver to remove the two screws on each side holding the front onto the sides. There may be screws at the bottom as well. You may not have to remove the front at all. Also HAVE THE POWER DISCONNECTED! Don't want ya to get fried. Remove the leads from the door switch on the right and remove.
1helpful
2answers

I just went to use my Kenmore electric dryer, model no. 110.64622300, & found 3 problems: First, the light was not on with the door open, so I put in only part of my laundry to make sure it was...

OK, the door switch has either failed and isn't working properly or has been pushed out (broken) from it's proper mounting position. Many older dryers will run with the door open, as long as the timer is running, so not to worry about that issue.

As far as the dryer seeming to be very hot, it's normal for a dryer to get hot rather quickly to dry clothes. But, with that being said, check the entire exhaust pipe to make sure you don't have any blockage that might be causing a venting problem - you want the vent pipe clear and clean and it should be checked at least once a year to make sure you aren't getting a builidup of lint, which could lead to problems with the dryer, or worse, a potential fire.

Now, onto the door switch. If you open the dryer door, you should be able to see if the push button switch is present, or has been broken or pushed into the dryer cabinet. If it has, you'll need to replace it with a new one.

The switch you need is Part #3406107 and should be under $20. It is fairly easy to remove and replace.

First, turn off the breaker to the dryer and/or unplug it from the power outlet. Then you can remove the top panel, by using a small, sturdy plastic or metal putty knive topush in the retaining clips that hold the top to the main cabinet.

Get down and look at the edge under the top (about an inch from the top surface) and there should be (2) indents near each side of the top that you'll use the putty knive to push in the retaining clips to release the top. Once both are released, you can tip up the top and get at the door switch.

Once you've done that, you can remove the faulty door switch and unplug the connector and put in the new switch and put everything back together.

Here's a line drawing that shows your dryer and the parts list (with the switch you need) to help you with the process.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getSubComp.pd?modelNumber=11064622300&productCategoryId=0151200&brandId=0582&modelName=ELECTRIC-DRYER&diagramPageId=00002&componentDescription=CABINET&documentId=P0303082&backToLink=Return%20to%20Sub%20Components%20list

This will save you quite a bit of money, versus having a service tech come out to do this rather simple repair.

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!
Sep 16, 2009 • Dryers
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Switching the door swing opening?

only if there are capped off screw holes on other side, look for caps mirror image to other side.
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Kenmore 11060052991 No start

have you checked the thermal fuse, if bad replace and clean vent.
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Over-oiled Hunter Original ceiling fan When I tried to I oil one of my Hunter Original fans for the first time, I obviously did not understand how you measure the oil in the reservoir and, long story short, I added too much oil. I wiped as much of it out of the light fixture as I could, and when I noticed there was oil dripping from the end of the pull chains for the fan and the light, l wrapped pieces of an old rag around the end of each rubber bands to hold the fabric onto the chains. I then put the fabric wrapped chain ends in small ziploc bags and sealed them either side of the chain so they wouldn't fall off. All this was to prevent oil from continuing to drip onto my kitchen table as it had originally. They've been like that for what's probably been 6 to 8 months as I believe the over-oiling incident happened last fall. I haven't really tried to do anything about it until now when it's starting to get to the point here in the Florida Panhandle where I'd really like that fan above my kitchen table to work. But I'm afraid to turn it on because I've read that oil would get all over the flywheel if you to put too much oil in the reservoir, and it would spray out everywhere if you turned on the fan. I didn't worry about it over the winter although I do sometimes reverse them and use them when it's really cold out but we didn't even have that cold a winter so I pretty much ignored it until now. I'm pretty sure there's no more oil coming out of the fan down the pull chains because the small amounts of oil captured in the ziploc bags certainly hasn't increased and I think some of it has actually evaporated because it seems like there's less than there was earlier although it's not like I've measured it. I will, of course, start by measuring the oil in the reservoir. I wonder if it's possible some of it has evaporated. And I was wondering whether if it's still overfilled I might be able to suck out some of the oil with an eyedropper. But the question about there possibly being oil on the flywheel is still kind of freaking me out. Is there any way I can deal with this without having to take down the fan? I simply can't do that myself because it's way up high and they are too heavy for me to hold while standing way up on a I had an electrician install all my 4 Hunter Original fans for that reason. I can call an electrician to care of this if I need to, but I'm hoping I won't need to. Does anyone out there have experience with this situation and what I can do to help get my fan working before it gets even hotter out here in the Florida Panhandle? Is my idea of sucking oil out of the reservoir with an eye dropper, for example, legitimate? Is it possible oil that got on the flywheel has evaporated over time, or that the oil which slowly ran down the pull chains came from the area where the flywheel is and that perhaps there's no more to fly out of the fan if I turn it on? Does anyone know how much oil that little oil reservoir holds or how deep it is? That's all the questions I can think of for now. I hope someone who might read this has the knowledge to help me. I looked all over online and all I could find was about how to add oil - the exact opposite of what I want to do! I should note that I haven't called the Hunter Fan Company because it's not like these fans are under warranty, I don't think as I bought all four of mine on eBay. I guess I have paperwork with the model numbers and that sort of thing but I thought I'd start here because it's easier and friendlier than many customer service personnel are.

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