Do the wheels easily come off this unit?

To remove the steering wheel, take the cover off by removing the screws from the back side, with steering wheel in lock position, put a socket with ratchet on the center nut and take the nut and turn it out for about a 1/8 inch clearance. Use a hammer and a brass punch, put your knees under the wheel and press the wheel outwards smacking the punch your holding on the center of the column with the hammer. The wheel will pop off but the nut will catch it from hitting you in the face. Take the nut off and remove the wheel.

What you really want to do is have a technician remove the oil sending unit and attach a pressure gauge of known reliability. Only then can you know if your pressure is good or bad.

If you have to change an oil pump, you can have problems reaching it. You may be able to find a Video or text online for your exact model. The Capri series covers a lot of Years and the engines may be different and one year may be a front wheel drive while an older one may be rear wheel drive.

One of the biggest problem is having clearance to remove the oil pan. Sometimes in the closest clearances turning the crankshaft can help make room to drop the oil pan.

Front wheel drive units can have a cradle which blocks pan removal. You need to find out the requirements for your exact year.

The pressure test will help diagnose other problems. Bad bearings can leak so much oil that pressure will behave exactly like you describe.

You may have to remove the cross member
& also drop the front axle some, if you have 4 wheel
drive,for clearance.

- Pull the hand brake and put transmission in neutral.
- Remove spark plug cords.
- Remove the spark plugs.
- Remove the Tappet cover
- Lift up the left front wheel.
Cylinder number 1 is toward the pulleys and belts side.
- Rotate the crankshaft anticlockwise with socket and extension rod and bring the valve tappets (intake and exhaust) No. 4 cylinder on dancing position.
NOTE: THERE ARE OTHER WAYS ALSO TO ADJUST THE FOUR VALVES AT A TIME. BUT AS DIY FOLLOW THE FOLLOWING METHOD TO AVOID ANY CONFUSION.
- Adjust the valve clearance of number 1 cylinder.
Valve clearance:
Intake 0.18 - 0.22 (cold) Exhaust 0.25 - 0.28 (cold)
- Rotate the crankshaft anticlockwise to bring the valves of cylinder 2 on dancing position and adjust the valves of No. 3 cylinder.
- Similarly rotate the crankshaft to bring the valves of No. 1 cylinder on dancing position and adjust the valves of No. 4.
- Rotate the crankshaft anticlockwise to bring the valves of cylinder No. 3 on dancing position and adjust the valve clearance of No. 2 cylinder.

ADJUSTMENT

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Remove the tire and wheel assemblies.
3. Remove the brake drums.
4. Set drum-to-brake shoe clearance gauge J 21177-A, or equivalent, so that is contacts the inside diameter of the brake drum. Fig. 1: Set the brake clearance gauge to the inside diameter of the brake drum . . .
   
   
5. Position the gauge over the brake shoes. Fig. 2: . . . then place the gauge over the outside of the brake shoes
   
   
6. Turn the brake adjuster until the brake shoes contact the clearance gauge. The outside diameter of the primary shoe and the secondary shoe will be about 0.050 in. (0.127mm) less than the inside diameter of the drum on each wheel.
7. After the adjustment is complete, install the brake drum.
8. Install the tire and wheel assemblies.
9. Carefully lower the vehicle, then test drive the vehicle, making several stops applying a firm force to the brake pedal. Repeat this until good pedal reserve is built up.

first off drain the fluid out of the transmission pan. I always remove the return hose(which is driver side on rad base) and put into a container. Put e-brake on start vehicle and put into drive, this will drain fluid out of transmission. When fluid stops flowing, re-attach return line to rad, put transmission back into park, shut off engine. Remove drain plug from bottom of transmission pan to drain remaining fluid. You will have to disconnect the front axle drive shaft to remove transmision pan. There are 4 bolts attached to flange at front of axle. Remove these bolts and nuts only and move shaft out of the way. Mark placement of at least 1 bolt on flange. If the bolt placement is not correct you will have vibration when 4 wheel drive is engaged. (Grease the bolts when putting back together.) Remove transmision dip stick from holder. There are 2, 10 or 12 mm bolts that hold the dip stick holder in place. These are 1/2 way down the holder and are attached to engine. You can reach these from top or bottom of vehicle. Replace at least 1 bolt when you put back together. If not the holder will vibrate against engine and will be annoying.
There are 10mm bolts holding the pan in place, remove all but one. When ready ensure there is enough clearance to allow the transmission pan and holder to be removed. Remove last bolt, as the pan drops, you will have to keep the pan level. Basically hold the pan and pull it down in a way that removes the dipstick holder. Since you have the pan off replace the fluid filter and clean plate filter is attached to. Also clean off magnets in transmission pan. The magnets are what picks up any metal pieces. Leave magnets in pan. When putting pan back on replace gasket if required and tighten bolts in offsetting pattern to allow for even seal. I believe it is only 14lbs torque required for the bolts. Do not over tighten as these will strip easily.

impeller is jammed onto shaft ,remove motor with 1 bolt ,remove impeller by putting a plastic pen in bottom of motor turn impeller counterclockwise inspect for clearance or obstruction.either replace impeller or do like I did and put a spacer,poor design on keeper circlip caused my problem.I got my spacer from a scooter wheel between the bearings & cut off enough plastic on the impeller shaft for clearance,always good to have a spare scooter wheel laying around!!!!!!

Valve clearance ideal setting is 0.10mm however as ideal replacement size shims are not always available use tolerance 0.05 to 0.2mm inlet and exhaust Procedure remove tappet cover rotate motor to tdc compression (inlet valve lobe pointing to rear wheel and exaust lobe to front wheel) measure clearance if no clearance depress cam bucket hold down by wedging a screwdriver or suitable tool (allen key) between cam bucket and cam remove shim measure with micrometer an relace with a shim 0.15 thinner depress valve remove wedge and measure clearance (if any) repeat procedure 4 each cylinder if clearance to large replace shim with a thicker one till clearance is in spec

your front trim plate that goes around dash from drivers sidde to radio just snaps off use a flathead screw driver to pry. put shifter all the way down in 1 to gain clearance. 7 mm screws hold the radio in place remove disconnect wires and go

1. get new studs and nuts
2.remove wheel
3. remove caliper at bracket to spindle connection(2 18mm bolts?)you may need to remove caliper from bracket,but not always nessacery. Or remove drum,then to #5
4.remove rotor,will need a hammer, tap inbetween studs dont wreck good studs and see if new studs can be installed without removing parking brake shoes. If there is no clearance to get new stud in you will need to remove shoes.
5.Pound out old studs place new stud in hole use a washer on outside then put a nut on and tighten to install stud, A air gun or some type of impact tool will be very helpful. Check to see that stud has enough threds to pull stud all the way thru ,add more washers if nessecary dont let the nut run out of threds it will **** to get back off and wreck new stud.
6. if you dont have air gun or feel comfertable removing brakes bring it to a reputable garage, shouldnt cost more than $70+ parts to get all new studs put in on one wheel.