Smooth-top range burner is stuck in high

check them with a meter and check the infinite switch's also

Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.

You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
1.If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons. (Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful.
2.On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires.
3.Set your multimeter to ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective.
4.Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2".
5.If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced.
6.With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance.
7.A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed.
If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. )

I tried to find your specific range by Google search, but the only reference to the "jeco----------" is on this forum, so I couldn't determine whether this stove is a gas or electric model.
IFyou are talking about an electric stove burner, then either one of the elements is malfunctioning or broken, or the contacts are dirty or otherwise not making good connection to the stove's burner receptacle. The way to check this is to remove the burner element and swap the similar element into its place to see if it works properly. Assuming the receptacle is not dirty or contaminated with debris, the burner should work normally. If it doesn't (but DID work in the receptacle you pulled it from) then either the receptacle itself is dirty/corroded/contaminated, or the control switch is bad.

The switch for that element is causing the problem. Replace the switch, element receptacle, and element

this is a voltage distribution issue
you would be better served to replace the
ERC
Electronic Range Control

If one of your burner heating elements works only intermittently, it's probably because of worn or bad contacts in the receptacle that the element plugs into. On most electric ranges, you can remove the element by lifting it up several inches and firmly pulling it away from its attachment (receptacle). Read your owner's manual to learn the correct technique for your range.

If, after removing the element, you see that the ends of the element that were plugged in are pitted, corroded, burned, scarred, or rusted, replace both the element and the receptacle.

If the burner is scorched or pitted, go ahead and replace it. New burners can cost anywhere from $10 to $40. Otherwise, check the burner's electrical connections to make sure there is solid contact. Jiggle the burner in its socket. If it is loose, then remove the burner—most just pull out of the electrical socket, although some are mounted with a screw. (Always unplug the range before removing a burner.) Slightly spread the two terminals apart for a tighter connection. If it still doesn't work, then replace the faulty burner with a functioning burner of the same size. If that burner works, then replace the bad burner with a new one. If it doesn't, then inspect the electrical socket for damage. If it's charred, replace the socket. To do so, remove the screws that secure the socket to the range and then unscrew the range wires. Attach the wire connections of the new socket to the range wires and reassemble the burner.

you need a new switch that is in the control panel

similar problem after a power outage. Display would be blank until I turned ON an element (after which display would light, but no power to the respective element. No elements would heat even thought the dial shows power). Turning OFF the element would blank the display. I reseated the power cord and cycled the 50a basement breaker for 5 mins. Everything now works, but not sure for how long.

What holds the spring assembly onto the bar assembly is just two small prongs. Use a pliers on the end that protrudes through the bar, squeezing the prongs together, and it should come out fairly easily.

When an electric element doesn't work, either it isn't receiving electric power or it's likely that the element or receptacle it plugs into is faulty. Check the other elements. If none work, the circuit breaker has probably tripped. Reset it at the electric panel. If this reoccurs, call an appliance repairperson. If just one burner isn't working, try to pinpoint the source of the problem-- likely a bad element/burner or a problem with its connection receptacle. In some cases it's the switch or the wiring. To replace a bad switch or repair the wiring or replace the receptacle, call an appliance repairperson. A burner that plugs into a receptacle is easy to test. After turning off the range's power at the main electrical panel, just unplug the non-heating burner, plug it into another working receptacle, restore the power to the range, and test it. If the burner works, you know its original receptacle is probably faulty. If it doesn't work in the good receptacle, the burner is bad and should be replaced. Buy a replacement and simply plug it into the receptacle. When you remove the burner, look for burned wires or a charred receptacle. Check the receptacle or terminal block to see if it's cracked, loose or looks burned. If you notice any of the above signs, replace the faulty component, too. If the male burner prongs are corroded, always change the female receptacle it was plugged into. A flip-up burner requires a little more work. After turning off the power, tilt up the burner, unscrew the small screw that holds it, and then slide it out. Disassemble the insulator block by prying off the clips. Then unscrew the wires from the element, replace with a new burner, and reassemble. To test a burner with a multi-meter: First remove the burner from its receptacle, as discussed above. Set the multi-meter to the Rx100 setting (or, for a digital meter, to [omega symbol] or k[omega symbol]. With the red lead connected to the positive jack and the black lead to the negative jack, touch the black probe on one of the heating element's terminals and touch the red probe to the other terminal. The needle should jump from the infinity reading to the right, indicating a properly "closed" circuit. If it doesn't, try the probes on a different part of the metal contacts. Still no reading? Touch the two leads together to make sure the meter is working (the needle should jump). If it works, there is an internal break in the element and it will need to be replaced. When you're finished, turn the power back on.