Am I able to fix a cracked screen?

If the pot fits, put it in.

mostly the motor problem  and other possible problem can be  that a bearing is bad.If the tub seal lets go water will weep into the tub bearing. This will rust the basket shaft and normally wreck the tub bearing. Once the bearings starts to get worn enough it usually gets very noisy. The tub bearing is pressed onto the outer back half of the tub shell assembly. Normally need to replace the inner basket/shaft assembly  and the outer shell with the tub bearing. 
Sometimes the inner basket support will crack, this can give an clicking or banging noise as well.
 
Pictures of this job...
A sure indication was the brown junk/gookus leaking out if the rear bearing area and the belt has spewed it around in the drum that the rear bearing and seal was bad...
Picture1 - Picture2
The whole outer shell and basket come out to do this repair....what bad bearing and rusted shaft looked like...
Picture1 - Picture2 - Picture3
I had to remove the back panel. Undo the pump hose & water level hose, remove the 2 shocks, remove the motor, undo the front boot from the outer panel and remove the 2 springs to lift the whole assembly out from the back to work on it.
Picture1 ( boot pushed inside ) Help page1 - Help page2

The noise coming from this machine as it spins is due to -- If the tub seal lets go water will weep into the tub bearing. This will rust the basket shaft and normally wreck the tub bearing. Once the bearings starts to get worn enough it usually gets very noisy. The tub bearing is pressed onto the outer back half of the tub shell assembly. Normally need to replace the inner basket/shaft assembly  and the outer shell with the tub bearing. 
Sometimes the inner basket support will crack, this can give an clicking or banging noise as well.
 
Pictures of this job...
A sure indication was the brown junk/gookus leaking out if the rear bearing area and the belt has spewed it around in the drum that the rear bearing and seal was bad...
Picture1 - Picture2
The whole outer shell and basket come out to do this repair....what bad bearing and rusted shaft looked like...
Picture1 - Picture2 - Picture3
I had to remove the back panel. Undo the pump hose & water level hose, remove the 2 shocks, remove the motor, undo the front boot from the outer panel and remove the 2 springs to lift the whole assembly out from the back to work on it.
Picture1 ( boot pushed inside ) Help page1 - Help page2

If the tub seal lets go water will weep into the tub bearing. This will rust the basket shaft and normally wreck the tub bearing. Once the bearings starts to get worn enough it usually gets very noisy. The tub bearing is pressed onto the outer back half of the tub shell assembly. Normally need to replace the inner basket/shaft assembly  and the outer shell with the tub bearing. 
Sometimes the inner basket support will crack, this can give an clicking or banging noise as well.
 
Pictures of this job...
A sure indication was the brown junk/gookus leaking out if the rear bearing area and the belt has spewed it around in the drum that the rear bearing and seal was bad...
Picture1 - Picture2
The whole outer shell and basket come out to do this repair....what bad bearing and rusted shaft looked like...
Picture1 - Picture2 - Picture3
I had to remove the back panel. Undo the pump hose & water level hose, remove the 2 shocks, remove the motor, undo the front boot from the outer panel and remove the 2 springs to lift the whole assembly out from the back to work on it.
Picture1 ( boot pushed inside ) Help page1 - Help page2

If the tub seal lets go water will weep into the tub bearing. This will rust the basket shaft and normally wreck the tub bearing. Once the bearings starts to get worn enough it usually gets very noisy. The tub bearing is pressed onto the outer back half of the tub shell assembly. Normally need to replace the inner basket/shaft assembly  and the outer shell with the tub bearing. 
Sometimes the inner basket support will crack, this can give an clicking or banging noise as well.
 
Pictures of this job...
A sure indication was the brown junk/gookus leaking out if the rear bearing area and the belt has spewed it around in the drum that the rear bearing and seal was bad...
Picture1 - Picture2
The whole outer shell and basket come out to do this repair....what bad bearing and rusted shaft looked like...
Picture1 - Picture2 - Picture3
I had to remove the back panel. Undo the pump hose & water level hose, remove the 2 shocks, remove the motor, undo the front boot from the outer panel and remove the 2 springs to lift the whole assembly out from the back to work on it.
Picture1 ( boot pushed inside ) Help page1 - Help page2

The I9 has a defect. The outer screen, which is glued, does not allow for expansion. My screen cracked after only a week of light use. My phone was NEVER DROPPED, and developed a small crack near the edge. Within two hours, the crack expanded to the other side of the screen. The phone i have was manufactured in the same month I got it. Motorola has some issues with their warranty system, and it only works sporatically. This phone will most likely be recalled.

If interested in selling knob since this probably cannot be repaired let me [email protected]

The handle can only be changed by separating the outer and inner shells of the door. You can pull the outer shell off the inner shell by removing the three screws at the end of the door and then using firm force to pull the shells apart. It helps to gently pry along the bottom, top and inside (nearest the hinges) with a thin flathead screwdriver or other very thin metal object. You don't have to get it all the way loose; just a little is fine. You can then use the two clasps on the back of the door (that hold it shut when it's closed) to pull with. I found that inserting a slim screwdriver into the lower clasp and using that as a handle (not a lever!) gives you a better grip. Hold the outer shell of the door with your left hand while pulling the inner shell in the opposite direction. Be carefull not to twist or bend the clasps; they are plastic and will break. The shells will pull apart and then you can access the screws that hold the handle. Change the handle then press the door shells back together. Make sure they are snug all around. Replace the three end screws and you're done.

The outer screen is called a Lenticular screen, it may come as a set with the Fresnel (the inner, and the way I would actually go) the screen is very hard to replace usually on a DLP as they have a somewhat sealed upper side and alot of screws.

Maytag uses two types of door handle mounts. first look at the bottom side of door handle to see if there are tiny set screws. If there is you might just have to tighten them with an allen wrench. If it doesn't you need to grasp the handle firmly and pull it towards your left, sometimes they can be a little stubburn and require a light wrap with a rubber mallet. This will remove the handle. In this case there will be a clip inside the handle end, check to see if it is bent or if the handle itself is cracked, although I have seen some where the handle mount has become loose and that can be tighted by turning clockwise.