Check your lid switch. If the washer fills and agitates, but stops at the rinse cycle, or, if the washer fills, then stops and will NOT drain, this is a common symptom of a lid switch malfunction. The following link explains how to access and/or replace one:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switchThe lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.
On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.
A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:
searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com
The part number for the model you have listed is 3949247. The average price is about $20 - $30. Prices differ between these sites, so shop around for the best price.
This is a very simple repair, but if you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
NOTE: You do not need to drain the washer to replace the switch. However, if you still want to drain the washer, you can by-pass the lid switch in the following way:
1. Unplug the washer and open the operator console. (Refer to the link I provided above).
2. With the console open, locate the lid switch plug that is connected to the timer and unplug it.
3. Remove the exterior washer case enough to allow access to the lid switch under the top panel.
4. Remove the lid switch.
5. With the lid switch in your hand, cut the connector plug off the end, leaving about two inches of wire.
6. Cut the green wire (center wire) flush and take the two remaining wires (black) and splice together. Use a wire lug or electrical tape to shield. You have now made yourself a by-pass plug.
7. Take this by-pass plug and plug it back into the timer. The lid switch is now by-passed.
8. Reinstall cabinet and console.
CAUTION: The lid switch is a designed safety feature that prevents the wash tub from turning with the lid open. With the switch by-passed, this creates a hazard to the consumer. This is NOT to be considered a permanent fix. Use as a temporary means to drain the washer and use while awaiting replacement parts. Since the washer will not shut off with the lid open, use the timer to stop the washer BEFORE opening the washer lid.
I believe this is the problem but cannot be sure. This problem occurred gradually. Washer didn't always start when the lid was shut. Now will not start at all. Is it truly the switch? If so, can you provide a little more detail on how to fix it. Thanks.
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