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Kenmore microwave down-lights not working, model 721.62643200 1000W

Hello, Pleased to become a member of this forum, hope y'all can help (I'm a Texan yeehaw!) This above-counter microwave has been a solid performer for 3 years. Every other function of the oven is just fine. The lights have three settings, High/Night/Off. First one light burned out, then the other. Removal was difficult, as they were frozen in their sockets, bulb twisted off and the bases were removed gently as possible w/ needle-nosed pliers. Upon replacement, I followed the instructions, disconnected from mains, and replaced the bulbs w/ high-dollar 40w replacements from a local light-bulb specialty store. Nothing. Returned to the store and exchanged for two more, still nothing. Tried another brand from Lowe's, still no joy. The bulbs were of the correct type & wattage, 130 volt 40W appliance bulbs. I dropped the lower panel and removed the sockets. Testing the leads with my multimeter on AC volts = nada. I pried the socket contacts up to insure good contact & polished w/ pencil eraser. Obtained the same ohmage (36.5) at the exterior leads as at the bulb contacts, so that connection is good. Tested the multi-pin connector coming out the bottom that plugs into the socket leads pigtail, no AC volts. I can hear a relay clicking inside, so I am guessing that is the culprit. As this is suspended above the counter with two bolts I am guessing I will have to remove the oven to fix, a procedure I dread. I am a veteran tinkerer and feel I can fix just about anything, but I know the value of experience so here we are. Any and all ideas will be appreciated. Tony

Posted by Tony LaRue on

  • 3 more comments 
  • Tony LaRue Feb 01, 2007

    Thanks so much for your response. So the lights have their own separate power supply in the control panel? Separate from the power supply for the inside light, turntable, display and all other microwave features which are working fine? Or is it more like a fuse or fusible link for the counter lights?

    I could not live without my microwave!


  • Tony LaRue Feb 01, 2007

    No problem...and thanks again for the help. I have been looking at exploded diagrams at and it looks as though I can get at that part from underneath. It looks as though it's held in by a single screw at the rear of the control panel. True? Or do I need to drop the unit?

    Oh, and that back plate that looks like it is supposed to attach to the kitchen wall (P/N 6008 on Sears site)...I don't think it's there. The kitchen wall is notched back behind the oven, no real way to attach it. Typical builders! To plug/unplug I need to reach waaaaay up behind it to a hidden outlet.


  • Tony LaRue Feb 06, 2007


    I will be disassembling and hope to get it extracted this weekend. Congratulations on your Colts!!! Are you guys still partying???


  • cmeenan Oct 19, 2008

    Same problem... Downlight broken, was replaced carefully with power off. Everything else works fine. So can anyone clarify that root cause is a shorted main controller ? Sears wants $107 plus S+H for this part so I don't want to guess..


  • Anonymous Mar 27, 2014

    replaced counter top light bulb and still wont work


1 Answer

William Miller

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  • 9,179 Answers

This is a very common problem we repair. The main causes are when the filaments short the power supply or when a bulb is removed or installed with the oven plugged in. We repair these control panels for $32.50 nationwide. For more information about our repair service, plus our critical safety and disassembly info, see our listing here on FixYa:

Posted on Jan 31, 2007

  • 2 more comments 
  • William Miller
    William Miller Jan 31, 2007


  • William Miller
    William Miller Feb 01, 2007

    The power "control" (not actually the power "supply") is separate.

    Sorry if I sowed some confusion there! *grin*

  • William Miller
    William Miller Feb 01, 2007

    >For more information about our repair service, plus our critical safety and disassembly info, see our listing here on FixYa:

    I would again refer you first to my safety & disassembly info link above.

    Over-the-range models are usually designed so that the control panel frame assembly can be removed from the chassis without removing the oven fromt he wall.

  • William Miller
    William Miller Feb 06, 2007

    We're still really happy. :D

    But to be honest, I felt that rain held us back, and (I'll get killed for this!) I wish the game could have been more competitive.

    What's more, I think the NFL should revise their rules so that the Super Bowl is only held in a domed stadium.

    I know a lot of people will say "that's what football's all about" but not me.

    All that rain makes the stage shows dangerous, and people paying a ton of money for a seat shouldn't have to sit in rain or snow.

    Just my opinion.


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