Question about Kenmore 62622 Microwave Oven
Hello, Pleased to become a member of this forum, hope y'all can help (I'm a Texan yeehaw!) This above-counter microwave has been a solid performer for 3 years. Every other function of the oven is just fine. The lights have three settings, High/Night/Off. First one light burned out, then the other. Removal was difficult, as they were frozen in their sockets, bulb twisted off and the bases were removed gently as possible w/ needle-nosed pliers. Upon replacement, I followed the instructions, disconnected from mains, and replaced the bulbs w/ high-dollar 40w replacements from a local light-bulb specialty store. Nothing. Returned to the store and exchanged for two more, still nothing. Tried another brand from Lowe's, still no joy. The bulbs were of the correct type & wattage, 130 volt 40W appliance bulbs. I dropped the lower panel and removed the sockets. Testing the leads with my multimeter on AC volts = nada. I pried the socket contacts up to insure good contact & polished w/ pencil eraser. Obtained the same ohmage (36.5) at the exterior leads as at the bulb contacts, so that connection is good. Tested the multi-pin connector coming out the bottom that plugs into the socket leads pigtail, no AC volts. I can hear a relay clicking inside, so I am guessing that is the culprit. As this is suspended above the counter with two bolts I am guessing I will have to remove the oven to fix, a procedure I dread. I am a veteran tinkerer and feel I can fix just about anything, but I know the value of experience so here we are. Any and all ideas will be appreciated. Tony
This is a very common problem we repair. The main causes are when the filaments short the power supply or when a bulb is removed or installed with the oven plugged in. We repair these control panels for $32.50 nationwide. For more information about our repair service, plus our critical safety and disassembly info, see our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
Posted on Jan 31, 2007
FYI
The power "control" (not actually the power "supply") is separate.
Sorry if I sowed some confusion there! *grin*
>For more information about our repair service, plus our critical safety and disassembly info, see our listing here on FixYa:http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
I would again refer you first to my safety & disassembly info link above.
Over-the-range models are usually designed so that the control panel frame assembly can be removed from the chassis without removing the oven fromt he wall.
We're still really happy. :D
But to be honest, I felt that rain held us back, and (I'll get killed for this!) I wish the game could have been more competitive.
What's more, I think the NFL should revise their rules so that the Super Bowl is only held in a domed stadium.
I know a lot of people will say "that's what football's all about" but not me.
All that rain makes the stage shows dangerous, and people paying a ton of money for a seat shouldn't have to sit in rain or snow.
Just my opinion.
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Thanks so much for your response. So the lights have their own separate power supply in the control panel? Separate from the power supply for the inside light, turntable, display and all other microwave features which are working fine? Or is it more like a fuse or fusible link for the counter lights?
I could not live without my microwave!
Tony
No problem...and thanks again for the help. I have been looking at exploded diagrams at Sears.com and it looks as though I can get at that part from underneath. It looks as though it's held in by a single screw at the rear of the control panel. True? Or do I need to drop the unit?
Oh, and that back plate that looks like it is supposed to attach to the kitchen wall (P/N 6008 on Sears site)...I don't think it's there. The kitchen wall is notched back behind the oven, no real way to attach it. Typical builders! To plug/unplug I need to reach waaaaay up behind it to a hidden outlet.
Tony
MicrowaveSvc,
I will be disassembling and hope to get it extracted this weekend. Congratulations on your Colts!!! Are you guys still partying???
Tony
Same problem... Downlight broken, was replaced carefully with power off. Everything else works fine. So can anyone clarify that root cause is a shorted main controller ? Sears wants $107 plus S+H for this part so I don't want to guess..
Thx!
replaced counter top light bulb and still wont work
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