I replaced the switches, I have replaced the timers, I have checked the switches and the timers to make sure they are working, I have also checked to see if there is power going to the elements and there is. What I would like to know is why the elements will not turn on? I asked one individual and he said because there was no resistance and then he was very rude to me, because I was taking up his time.
Place your probes across the line cord plug, press the lever down see that you have continuity and 44.5 ohms resistance one at a time on each side. If it reads open you must replace the actuator switch to the switch (actuator not closing the switch. Check both sides in the same manner. Your total ohms for both circuits when pressing the switches down, should read 22.1 ohms total. all power is there, then it will work. timers only operate the release solenoids. The micro switches control the elements. the actuators must be good to force the buttons to the microswitch down, both buttons must energize the circuit on both sides of the toaster. If this fails plug in the toaster, dugh!
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: Why will my Elements not turn on?
If you definitely have power at the elements, then if they are not heating they must be damaged - just check there is no cutout or safety device after the point you are testing for power.
My guess is that new elements will solve the problem
Please post again if you need info on getting/fitting replacements
This link gives contact details etc. at the bottom.
Hope this helps :)
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You need to buy a new timer and replace it. Be careful when replacing the timer as there are many electrical contacts in the back of the timer so when remove it, please label all the wires. Please follow the instruction from the manufacturer how to replace the timer. Of course, make sure you unplug the dryer because the dryer is powered by 220~240 VAC not 110~120 VAC. As for the heater, there are two possibilities. The first one is, part of the heating element is open circuit and therefore, there is not enough heat to your clothing. The second possibility is, your timer contacts is broken, when the timer asks for high heat, the electricity supposes going to all the heating elements, but since the timer contacts are broken, you have only part of the heating elements working. The heating elements are quite easy to replace but please replace the timer first. You may fix both problems once you replaced the timer. WL
1ST MAKE SURE .(IF ELECTRONIC IGNITION, CHECK TO MAKE SURE THE PLUG FOR YOUR STOVE IS PLUGGED IN. IF IT IS PLUGGED IN AND YOU CAN'T GET IGNITION, THEN CHECK FOR TRIPPED BREAKER OR BAD PLUG IN OUTLET, OR GFCI RESET SWITCH IS NOT TRIPPED. IF ALL IS OK THEN MAKE SURE YOU ARE GETTING GAS TO THE UNIT. CHECK SELECTOR KNOB FOR PROPER OPERATION OR CRACKS TO MAKE SURE IT IS OPERATING PROPERLY. IF ALL IS OK THEN REPLACE SELECTOR SWITCH,THERMOSTAT IS CONNECTED TO THIS SWITCH.)
GAS UNIT:NON ELECTRONIC IGNITION
1ST MAKE SURE ALL PILOTS ARE LIT. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE GAS COMING TO THE UNIT. IF ALL IS OK, THEN DO THIS: REPLACE OVEN SAFETY VALVE OR THERMOCOUPLE OR ADJUST THE FLAME HEIGHT AT THE OVEN PILOT. ALSO CHECK OVEN SELECTOR SWITCH FOR CRACKS OR PROPER OPERATON. CHECK THE SELECTOR SWITCH 1ST. IF ALL ARE OK THEN TURN OFF GAS TO THE UNIT FROM BEHIND THE STOVE AND REPLACE THE SELECTOR SWITCH, THE THERMOSTAT WIRE IS CONNECTED TO THIS SWITCH.TURN GAS BACK ON AFTER REPLACING THE NEW SWITCH AND CHECK FOR GAS LEAKS.
CHECK THERMOSTAT KNOB FOR PROPER OPERATION. MAKE SURE IT IS NOT CRACKED. IF NOT CRACKED , LIFT OVEN TOP AND CHECK FOR LOOSE WIRING. IF ALL IS GOOD, CHECK FOR CONTINUITY ON UPPER AND LOWER ELEMENTS. CHECK BY REMOVING ELEMENTS, GET MULTIMETER, WITH ELEMENTS REMOVED, TURN METER TO VOLT/AMPS AND TOUCH RED TEST WIRE TO ONE END OF THE ELEMENT AND THE BLACK TEST WIRE TO THE OTHER END. IF IT READS OR MOVES AT ALL THE ELEMENT IS GOOD. TEST THE OTHER ELEMENT THE SAME WAY. IF ALL IS GOOD, RECONNECT ELEMENTS INSIDE THE OVEN. REPLACE THE ELEMENT. YOU CAN ALSO CHECK FOR VOLTAGE TO THE SELECTOR SWITCH WITH THE METER TO MAKE SURE IT IS GOOD BEFORE REPLACING THERMOSTAT.
check fuses and pull out burner elements see if they are damaged if fuse blows when turned on make sure wiring to elements is not exposed I would also check the switches for elements, turn on one at a time
Check to make sure you have 240v at your receptacle. Lights, clock, timer, will still work with 120v, while the elements need 240v. Start by checking your breakers to make sure that one of the two breakers feeding your oven hasn't tripped.
Only two things come to mind. Either the clock is not set to the correct time (which I'm sure it is) or one of the elements most likely the bottom one is not heating for some reason. I would start by leaving the heater on 24 hrs by removing the trippers and switching it on. See if the problem goes away. If it does then focus on the timer settings, give it more warm up time etc. Make sure the clock is set to the right time and keeps time. If the problem persists on a 24 hrs running schedule then focus on the elements. --Turn the power off at the breaker-- and remove the access cover for each of the elements and or thermostats. Check the thermostat settings on each element for reasonableness. Sometimes the thermostat is covered by insulation material. If you need further assistance please write back with more detail. I can walk you through an element checkout if you have an AC volt / ohmmeter but since its new it should been under warranty.
if the dryer cycles normally, it is most likely the elements or some part of the controls. turn the dryer on and check the voltage at the elements, if u have voltage then the element is bad.
if no voltage or not enough voltage, then u need to follow the circuit back to see were it stops.
if its on an old fuse system 1 could be blown, this would let it run without heating. the relay that turns the elements on could be bad and not engaging, if all this checks out then the timer is the culprit.
hi not coming from the US but from the UK. have you wired up the elements correctly?
you need to make sure there is power at the elements, you can do this by using a multimeter.
By physically disconnecting the elements & fitting a plug on them & plugging them directly into a power outlet, that way you can definately be sure that the elements are ok, but if you are in the US make sure its all to code?
Check the thermo( I am guessing by this you mean the thermostat?)
You can link this out just to make sure that the thermostat is not at fault. so by doing that you are putting the heater in a permanent demand, if that works then it could be the stat thats giving probs.
So you kinda get where i am coming from process of elimination here? or that if a timer is in an off position?
My hunch sounds as though it could be a pressure switch prob?
if you have wired the elements in right make sure your not getting a back feed & that its not showing you theres power when in esscence there isnt ?