GE Profile Spectra JGBP79 Gas Kitchen Range Logo
Scot Tutkovics Posted on Jan 24, 2007
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Installing WB2x9154 I've got a replacement part for my oven igniter. My problem is -- what's the right way to get at the screws holding the old one in? They are facing the bottom of the oven and it's near impossible to get to them to unscrew. What's the trick?

  • Anonymous Apr 18, 2008

    Same problem. What is the answer?

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  • Posted on Sep 01, 2008
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For women from a woman's point of view: Most if not all the screws were hex head 1/4. Have appropriate tools. A socket set will work. I like my little cordless screw driver. You will also need wire strippers and two wire nuts, they say ceramic wire nuts and electrical tape. It is also a good idea to have a someone else there for safety sake. I tipped the stove back.
Take everything our of the oven. Take big screws out at the back bottom of oven. Lift bottom of oven and push toward the back of oven. (There is a lip at the front that oven floor slides unde). Be careful as there are sharp edges all over the place once this oven bottom is off. Next unscrew the screw at the front middle of oven that holds the long burner in place. Next pull the stove drawer out and set aside. Pull stove out just enought to put large juice cans under the front legs. Way at the back you will see where the burner comes down to the gas line. There are two screws holding it to the back of the stove, remove them. Next find the two wires that come from the igniter. Unplug them. Lift out the burner. Unscrew the two screws that hold the igniter on to the burner. Carefully put the new ignitor on the burner. If the new ends do not match the old ones or if they are shorter, cut the old ones off near the old ignitor. Cut the ends off the new ignitor as far from the ignitor as you can. Clean the ends off so that about a half inch of wire is bare. Put the old ends on the new wire so that you can plug them in. Hold the two like wires so that both bare wires are parallel and screw on the wire nut. Lay it parallel to one wire and wrap electrical tape around it so that it will not pull loose. Plug in the way it was originally. Put everything back together opposite of the way you took it apart.

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  • Posted on Jan 24, 2007
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Tut, probably the easiest way is to remove the burner. Remove the two screws on the bracket on the back wall holding the burner assy. Remove the front screw on the burner. You might have to remove the bottom drawer to get at the bracket. The burner will lift up. You don't have to remove it completely, just enough where you can get at the screws. GE made this a real pain. Catriver..

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Actually, the easiest way is to unscrew it from the bottom. Remove the bottom drawer (where you store pot lids and/or broiler pan). Lift the drawer up when it is almost slid the entire way out in order to get it over the hump that prevents you from accidently removing it.

You will see four bolts, two at each of the front corners, holding the bottom plate onto the stove. All bolts are 1/4 inch. You only have to remove the two which are pointing exactly straight up (the other two are at an angle). When you remove these, the bottom plate will fall off, so be careful. The back of the plate rests on a lip (remember this when you put it back on).

There is a HUGE opening directly below the igniter which you can use to remove the two bolts holding the igniter in place.

It really is very easy. This part fails enough that they had to make it easy to remove, but not obviously so (they have to throw a bone to the repair techs you know).

A

Anonymous

After removing the bottom tray, simply remove the screw holding down the burner nearest the oven door. Gently push the burner to the right. There will be enough clearance to get to those two 1/4" screws in question (holding the ignitor in).

A

Anonymous

Make planned obsolescence illegal!!! Should have gotten the A version of oven(i.e. w/ service contract/ then cancel contract.)

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Related Questions:

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1answer

HOW DO I LIGHT OVEN PILOT?

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly

Your model number was missing digits so I used this manual:
GRP17WEWWW
http://products.geappliances.com/MarketingObjectRetrieval/Dispatcher?RequestType=PDF&Name=981380002.PDF
and if your unit is older this one:
http://genet.geappliances.com/DocSearch/Dispatcher?REQUEST=ShowPDF&FileName=49-8514.PDF

Automatic Ignition

The oven burner is lighted by electric ignition. To light the burner, press the pad for the desired electrical function and press the INCREASE or DECREASE pad until the desired temperature is displayed. The burner should ignite within 60 seconds. After the oven reaches the selected temperature, the oven burner cycles off completely, then on with a full flame to keep the oven temperature controlled.

GE contact data:

If you don't understand something or need more help, call:

GE Answer Center®

800.626.2000
24 hours a day, 7 days a week


Both the new and OLD units use a glow bar for lighting the burner. Most likely your Glow Bar has failed: GE PN: WB2X9154

The Glow Bar is item 316 this link:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=214914&diagram_id=20725728#d20725728

If you net search the WB ge part number you can save lots of money!!!!
http://www.amazon.com/WB2X9154-Gas-Range-Oven-Igniter/dp/B004H3XQPM

If the glow bar is glowing and you still do not get ignition respond here and we can go through troubleshooting.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

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Oven does not light igniter glows but no flame

This happens when an oven igniter (glow bar) is bad. The igniter must draw enough amps to turn on the gas to ignite the flame. If you have a square shaped igniter use this part#5303935066 If your have a round shaped igniter use part#wb2x9154. These igniter will pretty much work universally for most gas ranges or ovens.
  1. Remove the racks
  2. Unplug unit
  3. Take out the screw holding the bottom pan
  4. Remove screws holding manifold where igniter is attached
  5. Remove manifold cut wires about 2in link from igniter and clean leads.
  6. Unscrew and remove igniter
  7. Replace Igniter with new one and fasten onto manifold
  8. Clean wires and screw on ceramic nuts to wires
  9. Tuck wires back and Reinstall all components
Test your new igniter. You might notice it taking a little longer to light up but that is okay.
Please let me know if this was helpful by rating me a 4.
Thanks so much have a great weekend.
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Gas oven not getting hot - glow bar works but no gas to burner

This happens when an oven igniter (glow bar) is bad. The igniter must draw enough amps to turn on the gas to ignite the flame. If you have a square shaped igniter use this part#5303935066 If your have a round shaped igniter use part#wb2x9154. These igniter will pretty much work universally for most gas ranges or ovens.
  1. Remove the racks
  2. Unplug unit
  3. Take out the screw holding the bottom pan
  4. Remove screws holding manifold where igniter is attached
  5. Remove manifold cut wires about 2in link from igniter and clean leads.
  6. Unscrew and remove igniter
  7. Replace Igniter with new one and fasten onto manifold
  8. Clean wires and screw on ceramic nuts to wires
  9. Tuck wires back and Reinstall all components
Test your new igniter. You might notice it taking a little longer to light up but that is okay.
Please let me know if this was helpful by rating me a 4.
Thanks so much have a great weekend.
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99% chance the igniter is the issue.
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GE gas stove the burners on top work, the oven won't get hot

The most common reason a gas oven won't heat is a bad igniter. It is located near the valve and burner under the oven bottom. You can usually see it glow orange just before the fire lights. Most GE ranges take a cylindrical igniter part #WB2X9154 or #WB13K21 rectangular igniter.
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Oven issue

Most likely you need to replace the WB2X9154 oven igniter. Remove the floor of the oven (two screws at the back wall) and lift back edge up first, then take out the rest of the way. One nut holds the flame spreader. This gets you to the burner assembly. The igniter is the round thing on the side, near the back. Do an "ask me" if you have more questions. If this helps, a "fix ya" rating would be appreciated. Thanks.
Sep 22, 2008 • Ovens
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Oven not working

CW, the problem with your oven is the igniter. The igniter is wired in series with a safety valve. The safety valve monitors the amount of electrical current flowing through the igniter when you ask it to "bake".  When the igniter gets "weak" it won't allow current to flow through it properly, this will keep the oven from heating.

Before you begin the repair, you should have the new part on hand. The part number is WB2X9154 and can be purchased at your local appliance parts retailer for about $50.00. Here's one online for $65.00.

First, UNPLUG YOUR OVEN!

To replace it... Remove the racks and lower panel (oven floor). This will expose the burner manifold where the igniter is mounted.  (It's the round thing on the manifold near the back... it has 2 wires going into it.) You'll need a 1/4" socket or nut driver to remove it.

(*TIP---> before removing the screws from the igniter, put a few drops of liquid dish soap on the threads to lubricate them. If you do this, you will not strip the threads of the screws and it will ease their removal.)

The new igniter kit will have two ceramic wire nuts in it. Cut the two wires off of the old igniter and strip them back about 3/8". Then connect the wires of your new one to the wires in the oven using the ceramic wire nuts provided. Then mount the new igniter and rebuild the oven.

(*TIP---> The new igniter is very fragile! [that's why it came wrapped tightly in bubble wrap] Handle it gently!)

There ya go! Total job time? ~45 minutes.
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New gas valve, new gas smell

CG, unfortunately you replaced the wrong part. The problem with your oven is the igniter. The igniter is wired in series with a safety valve. The safety valve monitors the amount of electrical current flowing through the igniter when you ask it to "bake".  When the igniter gets "weak" it won't allow current to flow through it properly, this will keep the oven from heating. It will also cause your symptoms as well...

Here's the scenario; Say your safety valve is "looking" for 2.5 amps of electricity flowing through it before it'll open up and allow gas to the manifold. Your igniter is designed to allow 2.8-3.2 amps to flow in good operating condition, but your igniter has become "weak"... it's now allowing 2.48-2.51 amps. The safety valve is sensing this and opening and closing rapidly, allowing gas to flow through it (fluttering). BUT! the igniter is not hot enough to ignite the gas and/or there is not enough gas to ignite do to the fluttering effect of the valve. Sometimes it'll light sometimes it won't.

Your igniter is the cause and needs to be replaced.

Before you begin the repair, you should have the new part on hand. The part number is WB2X9154 and can be purchased at your local appliance parts retailer for about $50.00. Here's one online for $65.00.

First, UNPLUG YOUR OVEN!

To replace it... Remove the racks and lower panel (oven floor). This will expose the burner manifold where the igniter is mounted.  (It's the round thing on the manifold near the back... it has 2 wires going into it.) You'll need a 1/4" socket or nut driver to remove it.

(*TIP---> before removing the screws from the igniter, put a few drops of liquid dish soap on the threads to lubricate them. If you do this, you will not strip the threads of the screws and it will ease their removal.)

The new igniter kit will have two ceramic wire nuts in it. Cut the two wires off of the old igniter and strip them back about 3/8". Then connect the wires of your new one to the wires in the oven using the ceramic wire nuts provided. Then mount the new igniter and rebuild the oven.

(*TIP---> The new igniter is very fragile! [that's why it came wrapped tightly in bubble wrap] Handle it gently!)

There ya go! Total job time? ~45 minutes.
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Oven Problems HELP

Morris, the problem with your oven is the igniter. The igniter is wired in series with a safety valve. The safety valve monitors the amount of electrical current flowing through the igniter when you ask it to "bake".  When the igniter gets "weak" it won't allow current to flow through it properly, this will keep the oven from heating.

Before you begin the repair, you should have the new part on hand. The part number is WB2X9154 and can be purchased at your local appliance parts retailer for about $50.00. Here's one online for $65.00.

First, UNPLUG YOUR OVEN!

To replace it... Remove the racks and lower panel (oven floor). This will expose the burner manifold where the igniter is mounted.  (It's the round thing on the manifold near the back... it has 2 wires going into it.) You'll need a 1/4" socket or nut driver to remove it.

(*TIP---> before removing the screws from the igniter, put a few drops of liquid dish soap on the threads to lubricate them. If you do this, you will not strip the threads of the screws and it will ease their removal.)

The new igniter kit will have two ceramic wire nuts in it. Cut the two wires off of the old igniter and strip them back about 3/8". Then connect the wires of your new one to the wires in the oven using the ceramic wire nuts provided. Then mount the new igniter and rebuild the oven.

(*TIP---> The new igniter is very fragile! [that's why it came wrapped tightly in bubble wrap] Handle it gently!)

There ya go! Total job time? ~45 minutes.
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