Will not power up after lightning storm. fuse on power supply good but noting happens when power button is pressed.
Going to have to use a volt meter and follow the voltage inside the set.
Fairly straight path---AC comes into set past the fuse--at some point if it vanishes before the voltage is rectified (changed from AC to DC) something is open---a resistor or two should be there and may be opened.
After it is changed to DC there are a number of other protection and blocking parts.
The change from AC to DC usually involves a bridge rectifier.
These are fairly basic tests but if you cannot do them time for a technician or a shop to look at the unit.
There are a lot of fail safe's in place to protect a set from this type of damage but they are parts designed to destroy themselves in the process.
SOURCE: power problem - Polaroid FLM 2601
i just repaired mine by replacing the 2 electrolitic caps that had a bulge on the top. they were 1000uf at 35 volts---works again!!!!
SOURCE: polaroid flm 323b no power
FLM-323B same problem, black screen. Checked out the power board and there is no 24v on it. Took the board out, let it cool off, put it back in. Got my TV back for a while, checked for 24v and it is there. Worked for a few weeks, now it's out again. Known issue with Polaroid, and if it's out of warranty, might as well throw it away because they WILL NOT help you. Personally this was my first and LAST POLAROID TV ever, TOTAL JUNK.
SOURCE: POLAROID FLM-2011 REMOTE CODES
My cox remote guide lists for the Polaroid TVs the following codes:
LCD TVs: 1276 and 1316
TVs: 0765, 0865, 1276, 1314, 1316, 1326, 1327, 1328, 1991, and 1992
I hope one of them works.
SOURCE: Polaroid LCD FLM-3232 Television
I can only tell you what I found out. There is vertually no documentation supporting this product to componant level, so I just had to wing it.
I had no power 24VDC from CN2 or CN3. I figured the problem was a switching problem,
So I replaced two Diodes D7 and D6 (They are in the mid board area and real close to each
other) I also replaced the two electrolitic caps 10UF 50V that are in the same area just
because I was in the mood to change out parts. (I changed em with 10uf 35V) the diodes
were also changed with parts I could get D6 I changed with a 276-1102 and D7 with a
276-1114 Radio Shack. I know that they are not the correct values, but I was in a hurry
and just wanted to see if I could some it and get it off my table. Well Low and Behold''
it sturned on, and has been working. I cant say this fix will help you, but if that other
harolded fix does not work for you, then try mine. worst you can do is Blow it up. I really
Should have taken the time to order the correct parts, but after pulling my hair out for two
days trying to find a schamatic for that stupid power supply I guess I got depressed. I knew it had to do with the switching on of the power, but so many things can do it. I just hoped it out be those swistching diodes. If you do want to try this, go ahead and remove the componants and order
the correct ones. and GOOD LUCK.
Alan LaBerge
SOURCE: Are the Polaroid FLM-3232 and the Element FLX-3202
not sure if there the same but the boards inside may be.
This sounds like the problem most LCD tv's get with swelled up
capacitors in the power supply board. look for circular cylinder shaped
parts rapped in plastic with writting on the sides, and metal tops, if
the top is rounded over, not flat, it is bad. replace them.
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