Need rotary cut out bits for dewalt dc550

Which blade are you using? You need a blade with a lot of teeth per inch to cut any thin metal.

Elu is taken over by Dewalt. I can't find manual online but try to check on Dewalt band saws. ; you can use Dewalt manuals for reference. Are you cutting metal? I use Haltbar 601 series bi metal blade for cutting steels.

Grinder if you have one, reciprocating saw with a metal blade, or a good hack saw.

If it's a twist bit try putting a vice-grip pliers on the end and turn it so the fluting pushes the bit out. If it won't move or if it's a spade bit you'll have to split the wood around the bit. You may or may not be able to do this with the offending part of the stump in the ground. Using a wedge, drive it into the stump near but not next to the bit so you don't damage the bit. Don't drive the wedge flush into the stump or you may get the bit out and then have the wedge stuck. Worst case, carefully use a chainsaw to cut out the stump so you can split the wood around the bit.

There are a couple reasons why the blade is wobbling. Either the diamonds are glazed over because the material you are cutting is way to hard or the blade is very thin and when metal gets hot it expands and when you make a longer rip cut it will tend to wobble. I sell blades for a living and i can almost gurantee this is the reason

If the battery is OK then the problem will be in the variable speed trigger switch.

Cutting holes in wallboard, Removing grout, Deburring metal, Cutting fiberglass, Sanding in tight spots, Cutting the heads off stripped screws, Shaping metal, Cutting ceramic tile, Stripping old paint and varnish from woodwork, Removing window pane glazing, Grinding, Shaping and cutting in arts and crafts projects, Polishing metal, Engraving, Etching, Cutting marble, Cutting nails, Cutting plumbing pipe, Sharpening tools, Cutting wood.

remember to match the blade width to the type of cutting you are doing. Also keep in mind: * Narrow Blades can make much tighter radius cuts, but tend to twist and wander when making long straight cuts. * Wide Blades can't make the tight turns that narrow ones can, but they hold a straighter line than their narrow counterparts. * The tpi determines the speed with which the blade cuts through stock. Blades with high tpi cut slower but leave a very smooth edge. They are best for detail work on thin stock. Blades with low tpi cut quickly and leave a slightly rough edge. They are great for resawing or long rip cuts. * Steel Blades are inexpensive and work well for cutting softwood. Steel blades, however, dull quickly in hardwood. * Bimetal Blades are made of high-speed steel and can cut thin metal or wood. * Carbide Blades are for wood cutting only. They are more expensive than other blades but stay sharper longer than steel or high-speed steel.

You need a # 402 bit. This comes with a screw on top that detaches and goes through the hole in the cutting wheel (very small hole). Then just re-attach it to the bit and you're in business. Depending on the particular cut-off wheel you're using, the wheel can be extremely fragile. Even though it will cut steel, it is brittle. ALWAYS wear safety glasses when using a cut-off wheel particularly, they will inevitably shatter and go flying!
Probably best to go to a local hobby store, buy a few bits for $10, and pick the owners brain about the tool.

Do not use the threaded bit. You need a mandrel that has a tiny screw on the top. Take the screw out and thread it onto the cutting wheel and then screw it back on. My book says its mandrel #401.