Dryer Model: AD55HK

The armstrong concept 10 comes in 7 different sizes. We need the model number off the outdoor unit.

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A capacitor only costs a few bucks. The condenser motor may tell you what MFD of capacitor to use. What you could do is 1. kill the power to the condenser 2. open up the electrical panel on the side 3. trace the motor wires to locate the capacitor. As you're tracing the wire, you may run across a low pressure sensor on the refrigerant line also. This would be a good start to diagnose where the problem is. If you're really going to be doing this, you should invest in a good multimeter.

Hi WFO9, It sounds as though the fan capacitor is under specs. It is probably losing its capacitance ability, they are usually rated plus or minus 5% of the value printed on the case. If however the capacitor is no longer within the rated specs. the fan motor will draw too much current and will then blow the fuse. either that or after the normal start delay built into the Ac, which is 3-4 minutes, the compressor tries to start and again draws to much current and blows the fuse. have all the capacitors checked and replaced if they dont meet the specs printed on the capacitor case. regards Col www.digitalcontrols.com.au

Hi!!
The part you need is called STARTING CAPACITOR and it is located in the same compartment where the electrical connectors are in the outside unit. MAKE SURE THE POWER BREAKER IS OFF before opening the compartment. and before working with the capacitor, touch both terminals with a screw driver to short them out and discharge the capacitor. Don't worry this is just a preventive measure and no sparks are going to be coming out of it. Once the capacitor is discharged, take a picture of the wiring and label them before disconnecting the wires. Remove capacitor and take to an appliance parts store to get a new one.
HERE IS A PIC. OF HOW A CAPACITOR LOOKS LIKE



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it's not the cap's fault that i see as the real problem,the cap is used to start the compressor and is rated for so many starts per hour and if you go over this rating it will stress the cap and after some time it will fail and this problem is known as short cycling and is normally caused by your thermostat.Or the unit is starting up under large gas pressure loads due to air in the system and or moisture and can only be fixed by a new gas charge

The problem is the powerboard, it tries to charge the components up with electric, then somewere it hits a faulty component (capacitor) and shuts itself down (standby mode/blinking etc)...You coulv'e heard a small "pop" when this first happenend...Maybe the unit started to take longer and longer to "warm up"....Maybe it shuts down after a while, either way the end result (as the cause) is usually the same...the machine fails, you research for hours, you give up and pay a repair man to order a $200/$300 part, just to charge you another$100 orso to install it (20 minutes for a average joe/4 minutes for a pro)...try this procedure on your projector (I wrote it for a lcd/plasma tv repair, so just replace the words "monitor/tv" with "projector" and the diagnoses, diss/assembly and repair stays the same...Here it goes;...........................................
The caps (capacitors) in the powerboard are going out. This is a very common problem in all class and price ranges of modern lcd and plasma tv's/ monitor's. I don't know if this problem has been like this for awhile or it just started, but either way, if the tv takes an abnormal amount of time to "warm" up then it most likely will go out all the way sometime in the (near) future. If you have a tiny bit of will and knowledge ypou can open the unit and get to the print board. Examine this for "popped" capacitors, they will have a buldging top instead of a flat one. Im gonna try to include a pic of them here, if i can get it this time, I've tried bfore lol. But you can google image a "popped" or "bad" capacitor and you would be able, with ease, to diagnose if you have any of these. Usually only one or two. Radioshack sells capacitors (couple anyway) for $1.59 each. MAKE SURE the replacement is of the SAME voltage or HIGHER, or you will be right back replacing those 2. Every capacitor has a negative pole marked with an (-) on the side of the capacitor(by one of the "legs", always puit the negative (-) "leg" of the new capacitor in the same hole in the printboard as where the previous negative (-) "leg" of the capacitor was ( a capacitor with the negative and positive "legs" put in backwards will result in the new piece "popping" as sson as you turn it on!!) make sure the "uf" rating (for example the most common popped capacitor is the 1000 uf) is the same as the one you are replacing. I needed 1000 uf, 105 c and 26v (volt) ratings for the 1 capacitor I needed to replace to fix my LG 19" lcd panel monitor I found by the trash that the light came on off, but it didn't come on. I replaced that capacitor with ; 1000uf, 85 c and 36 v (volts0...It works fine eventhough the volts and the temperature rating (36v and 85c) was not the same as the (26v(volt) and 105c ) capacitor I removed !! Further, I've replaced capacitors that had the celcius rating of 105 with the only ones Radioshack had, namely 85 c(celsius) they have been working great, but I'm not sure about any effect, nor have I heard or read (yet?) about that making an urgent difference. Many threads that I've read people have done the same, so we should be ok (my stuff has been running good for a while longer then most brand new ones!.............(all these ratings ; 'uf ' and 'c' etc are on the side of the capacitor you are replacing and on the side of the ones you are replacing them with)...For all this all you need is the cheapest solder gun u can find (I bought one for $7.99 at Radioshack), a camera (to take pictures as you go to remember how to reassemble the unit) and, once you have your materials, 20 minutes to replace 2 or 3 capacitors and you are good to go...Most monitors and tvs (lcd/plasma) I've seen you have to lay flat on the ground/bed/blanket etc, to work on (screen side down). Usually there are 2 or 3 screws (or a few more) to remove, then you will have to carefully (its comes off easily most times)insert a flat screwdriver inbetween the casing and gently pry it up as you go around the whole frame. Sometimes you have to remove the little washer arouind the cable input orso, just be gentle and you cant go wrong. Once insidet here will be a box with wires running to the sides etc...unplug, gently, these wires and open the box. Inside you will find 2 or 3 circuitboards, check them all for "popped" capacitors, replace, reassemble and plug it in....Have fun becoming an overnight projector technician!

If this helped (or not helped) you, please rate, thank you!

Hi there,
The problem is the powerboard, it tries to charge the components up with electric, then somewere it hits a faulty component (capacitor) and shuts itself down (standby mode/blinking etc)...You coulv'e heard a small "pop" when this first happenend...Maybe the unit started to take longer and longer to "warm up"....Maybe it shuts down after a while, either way the end result (as the cause) is usually the same...the machine fails, you research for hours, you give up and pay a repair man to order a $200/$300 part, just to charge you another$100 orso to install it (20 minutes for a average joe/4 minutes for a pro)...try this procedure on your projector (I wrote it for a lcd/plasma tv repair, so just replace the words "monitor/tv" with "projector" and the diagnoses, diss/assembly and repair stays the same...Here it goes;...........................................
The caps (capacitors) in the powerboard are going out. This is a very common problem in all class and price ranges of modern lcd and plasma tv's/ monitor's. I don't know if this problem has been like this for awhile or it just started, but either way, if the tv takes an abnormal amount of time to "warm" up then it most likely will go out all the way sometime in the (near) future. If you have a tiny bit of will and knowledge ypou can open the unit and get to the print board. Examine this for "popped" capacitors, they will have a buldging top instead of a flat one. Im gonna try to include a pic of them here, if i can get it this time, I've tried bfore lol. But you can google image a "popped" or "bad" capacitor and you would be able, with ease, to diagnose if you have any of these. Usually only one or two. Radioshack sells capacitors (couple anyway) for $1.59 each. MAKE SURE the replacement is of the SAME voltage or HIGHER, or you will be right back replacing those 2. Every capacitor has a negative pole marked with an (-) on the side of the capacitor(by one of the "legs", always puit the negative (-) "leg" of the new capacitor in the same hole in the printboard as where the previous negative (-) "leg" of the capacitor was ( a capacitor with the negative and positive "legs" put in backwards will result in the new piece "popping" as sson as you turn it on!!) make sure the "uf" rating (for example the most common popped capacitor is the 1000 uf) is the same as the one you are replacing. I needed 1000 uf, 105 c and 26v (volt) ratings for the 1 capacitor I needed to replace to fix my LG 19" lcd panel monitor I found by the trash that the light came on off, but it didn't come on. I replaced that capacitor with ; 1000uf, 85 c and 36 v (volts0...It works fine eventhough the volts and the temperature rating (36v and 85c) was not the same as the (26v(volt) and 105c ) capacitor I removed !! Further, I've replaced capacitors that had the celcius rating of 105 with the only ones Radioshack had, namely 85 c(celsius) they have been working great, but I'm not sure about any effect, nor have I heard or read (yet?) about that making an urgent difference. Many threads that I've read people have done the same, so we should be ok (my stuff has been running good for a while longer then most brand new ones!.............(all these ratings ; 'uf ' and 'c' etc are on the side of the capacitor you are replacing and on the side of the ones you are replacing them with)...For all this all you need is the cheapest solder gun u can find (I bought one for $7.99 at Radioshack), a camera (to take pictures as you go to remember how to reassemble the unit) and, once you have your materials, 20 minutes to replace 2 or 3 capacitors and you are good to go...Most monitors and tvs (lcd/plasma) I've seen you have to lay flat on the ground/bed/blanket etc, to work on (screen side down). Usually there are 2 or 3 screws (or a few more) to remove, then you will have to carefully (its comes off easily most times)insert a flat screwdriver inbetween the casing and gently pry it up as you go around the whole frame. Sometimes you have to remove the little washer arouind the cable input orso, just be gentle and you cant go wrong. Once insidet here will be a box with wires running to the sides etc...unplug, gently, these wires and open the box. Inside you will find 2 or 3 circuitboards, check them all for "popped" capacitors, replace, reassemble and plug it in....Have fun becoming an overnight projector technician!

If this helped (or not helped) you, please rate, thank you!

There's a common problem with the Rx-V661 where a capacitor blows and then the display on the unit no longer works. It will start to display when you first turn it on, but fade out right away. This is because of a blown capacitor and a known issue for the Rx-V661.

If it is the compressor making that sound,The compressor is bad.
A fan motor can as make this type of noise as well when going bad.
If it is the fan motor stopping,this will also shut the compressor down,due to the thermal overload protection.



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There are (4) 1000uf @35V capacitors all together on the DM board that need to be replaced some models have 1000uf @ 16V but they are all right beside each other and all rated at 1000ufs the voltages will be stamped on the capacitor along with the uf ratings.