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Anonymous Posted on Jun 06, 2012

Dometic 630516.331 two front units the ac compressors are working but the fans are not running

The front ac units are working, the compressors are cycling but the fans in both units are not running at all. The rear unit in this coach is operating correctly

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 828 Answers
  • Posted on May 31, 2008

SOURCE: duo-therm by dometic ac rv unit

I suspect that you have a bad selector switch for the on, off, low fan, high fan operation. If the selector switch is put into the off position everything should stop completely.

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Dan Webster

  • 8221 Answers
  • Posted on May 10, 2009

SOURCE: Ac Problems

You must have too many things running on that circuit. Check your connection to the power box.Loose connection on the receptacle can cause the breaker to trip or too many things running on the same circuit. If the breaker is old it might need to be replaced.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

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Ned C Cook

  • 3433 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 02, 2009

SOURCE: Dometic AC that the fan shuts off but the compressor keeps running

call dometic dealer. I hear they have a bad circuit board that is replaced.

Bill Long

  • 606 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 09, 2009

SOURCE: RV air conditioner. Compressor running, fan stops before cool

The fan motor is getting hot and going off on the internal overload in the motor.
This is caused by either a low voltage, a bad capacitor, or tight or dry bearings in the motor.
To check the bearings turn the power off to the unit, then spin the fan blade if it spins freely then the bearings are ok.
To check the capacitor you will need some kind of tester or you can buy a capacitor and replace it, that's what a lot of people do. They usually don't cost very much.
To check the voltage you will need a voltmeter and measure the volts at the unit.

Anonymous

  • 127 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 04, 2009

SOURCE: Compressor doesnt come on in a dometic duotherm

If this is a wall thermostat controlled unit, then check to make sure that you have power coming from the yellow wire on the thermostat when it is placed in the Cool/Auto High mode. If you do not have power at the yellow wire, then you have a bad thermostat. If you do have power, then remove the control unit from the inside of the AC and see if you have power at the Y terminal there. If so, when you turn the thermostat to cool, can you hear a relay clicking in the box? If not, then you have a bad control box. If the relay is clicking, you need to check the power at the compressor relay on the board. It has a black wire to one side and a purple (or blue) wire on the outgoing side. Check to see if you have 120V on the blue wire when the tstat is set to High/Cool. If not, then you need to bypass the freeze switch to make sure that is not the problem. If you do, then you need to go upstairs and check the start capacitor for OK. It is located in the side compartment of the upper unit, it has a small black relay on the top called a PTCR. These often burn out and will cause the compressor not to work. If that is fine, then you go to the top of the compressor to the thermal overload switch. See if you have power at both sides, if so, then you have a bad compressor. If not, then the overload switch is open and not allowing power to the compressor.

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I suspect that you have a bad selector switch for the on, off, low fan, high fan operation. If the selector switch is put into the off position everything should stop completely.
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