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Below is a link to a youtube video about refrigerator automatic defrosting. It does not show a bottom freezer like yours but the cause is the same. Pay close attention to the video and you should learn enough to get your refrigerator working. Refrigerator Repair Not Cooling Defrost System
Hi,
Watch the unit for at least a hour, to see if the temps drop. You could have had the door open too long and lost a lot of air. Normally, they can recover from this, and this is nothing to worry about. I loaded my today also and my temps went up to 45, but my door way open for about 10 mins or so. Don't check the unit for at least 1 hour. Allow time for the system to recover. It should be ok. It should be able to drop temps with in a hour or a least 10 degrees.
Get back to me if you have any more question or concerns.
Good Luck, enjoy your cold beer....
check to see if the compressor is bad by putting your meter on the ohm setting. check each terminal togther and then also to ground if it beaps when it goes to ground it is a bad compressor. BUT it should beap when you check each termianl togerther. there is three leads one is start one is run and one is common. if you have contunity between these it is a good compressor. i
Since you replaced both bulbs with new ones and they still won't illuminate, there is a high probability that the open door switch is not working or if you have a newer style refridgerator then in some models if the electronic brain for that model sensed the door has been open for too long, it will shut off the lamps.. Try this.. unplug the firge for a minute or two then plug it back in. Check to see if that 'power up clear' cycle got the lights to illuminate. Also, if your model has a freezer that has lights in it check to see if they go on. Hope that helps you.. Good luck...
We see (and repair) this
a lot. The problem is on the control panel, which
we regularly repair nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about a
week.
At
our Web site, you can get details of our service, plus we have a video
available showing how to remove a typical
over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
This light failure often
occurs when a bulb goes out and the filament
shorts, or when the bulbs are removed or installed without first
unplugging the oven from the power line. Either can cause such a
failure on the controller.
The lights can can be
inoperable or stuck on or no bright, too. Sometimes this will similarly
affect the exhaust fan operation or inside light, too.
Feel free to contact me directly (and please remind me of your
full model number from the tag on the unit) for more information & help.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful
rating of our answer.
Hi: The Kitchenaid refs. us a gravity close along with the magnets in the door seals. Magnets getting weak seals getting old and what you told me you checked can cause this. The easy fix is to raise the front of the fridge by lowering the front wheels. Pull the grill off the front and find the leveling screws (usually labeled.) Raise the front of the fridge until the doors swing shut with a gentle push. Before you replace the grill make sure the fridge dosn't rock side to side as you want it even. This is what they call leveling a fridge. Not cabinet level. Just sturdy. Hope I helped, Jeff
Light switch is bad and needs to be replaced. Make sure your bulbs really work before you assume anything, however. Just because they are new does not mean they work.
Refridgerator is 5 years old. Simply went out of cooling and freezing. Still makes operating sounds and lights work but losing our freezer full of food is disturbing on a refer only 5 years old.What could be wrong?
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