Complete functioning control panel but nothing works.

The screws that hold on the handle are inside the door assembly. Here is the way its done but its not for the average person. On the inside of the door is a plastic frame all the way around the door. It is held in place by plastic tabs. You have to gently pry off that frame with something like a putty knife or small screw driver. If you are not careful you end up breaking off some of the tabs. Once that frame is off you should have access to the 2 screws holding on the handle. Remove screws---replace handle---and push plastic frame back on.

First unplug the microwave, then remove 2 to 4 screws over the grille vent. Remove the grille vent. Depending on the model, you either slide it to the left a little bit (1/4 inch) then pull it out, or tilt out the top of it followed by the bottom. Now you should see 1 screw that holds the top of the control console in place. Remove it, then lift up on the control console to free it past the tabs, and tilt out the top. Now, depending on the model, you may see the fuse behind the control console, or if it's not there, then remove the 1 or 2 screws that hold the metal grill vent that's located above the control console. Remove that metal grill, and your should see the fuse behind it.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ronald_e6b9572cebe3ad27

Replacing a magnetron typically is not that difficult. What you mostly have to consider, however, is safety. Most of these ovens generate about 3,000 to 4,000 VAC in the high voltage network where the magnetron is located. In order to replace the magnetron safely you must perform the following steps:

1. UNPLUG the microwave.

2. If the oven is an over-the-range model, you will need to unmount it. The oven is usually mounted in a rear bracket on the wall with two long screws holding it in place from the top. Locate the two screws holding the unit in place on the TOP of the oven and gradually loosen them to lower the oven. A second person to help support the oven is usually a must. Remove the glass carousel tray before doing this to avoid having it fall out and possibly break. (If you have a counter top model skip this step).

3. Locate the screws holding the exterior case in place and remove them. Remove the exterior case and set aside. NOTE: Some manufacturer's install these cases using special tamper resistant screws. They do this to prevent consumers from opening the appliance to work on them. If you notice the screw heads are different, many appliance stores (such as Sears) sell a nut driver with special attachments made for this purpose. The cost is usually less than $30 U.S.

4. Once the case has been removed locate the High Voltage Circuit. You can't miss it. There should be warning labels. Remove the protective guard the covers the circuit and remove.

NOTE: Some consumers have had concerns over the High Voltage Capactor (shaped like a can with two wires attached to it) for fear that it will hold a charge and cause an electric shock. Most of these capactors don't hold a residual charge for long. In fact, by the time you unplug the appliance and remove the exterior case, it will have discharged. If in doubt, you can discharge the cap by using a shorting probe. You can fashion one by using a screwdriver and some wire with an alligator clip on one end. Just clip the alligator clip the equipment chassis and wrap the other end several times around the screwdriver (make sure you strip the wire bare before wrapping around the screwdriver). Hold the handle of the screwdriver and touch it to all the component leads in the high voltage circuit. In particular the high voltage capacitor.

CAUTION: DO NOT operate the oven with the case removed, or try servicing anything with the unit plugged in.

There are several good websites that you can use as a reference that have exploded view parts illustrations:

searspartdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com

Use these sites to locate and identify any parts to avoid confusion.

Removing and reinstalling the magentron at this point should be fairly simple. There is one (sometimes two) plug to remove from the filament and several screws holding it in place. Make sure you have the safety shield and exterior case reinstalled prior to testing the oven. Place a glass of water in the oven before test operating. The water acts as a load for the RF and will also indicate whether or not the magentron is working properly. The water should be near boiling within 2 minutes on most ovens. DO NOT operate an oven when it is empty. This can damage the magentron.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

I can't find if there's a difference between model PLMV178HC and PLMV178HCA. Every search for PLMV178HC redirects me to PLMV178HCA.
So I'm giving you information based on model PLMV178HCA. If you end up with a wrong part, the supplier has a very liberal simple return policy.

It is repaired by replacing the control panel frame assembly, which comes with a new membrane keypad already attached.
For model PLMV178HCA, that is part number 5304470533 and you can get it from Sears online for $89.95 (subject to change).

At my Web site, I have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes. (Also, the service manual is here.)

If you have any trouble getting the grille off once the screws are removed, slide the hood vent grille to the left about 1/4", then then pull it forward. On some models there are L-shaped clips that fit into a slot to hold bottom of the vent.

Be very careful when disconnecting the cables & wires. Some connectors have a locking tab (see photo) Next remove the keypad strip (see photo) Then simply move your circuit board into the new frame.

Be careful, because your display tube is made of glass, and if it breaks, the board must be replaced as well.

Let me know by e-mail if I can help further.

Regards,
William E. Miller, AS-EET
http://www.MicrowaveControl.com
Microwave Oven Control Panel Repair Nationwide "Recycling by repairing since 1982"

The magnetron may have either failed or is not being supplied with the extremely high voltage required to run it.
Make sure the !!!!capacitor is discharged!!!!! before attempting any sort of repair.
Check the door interlock switches first then the high voltage diode with either an AVO model 8 on high resistance range for short circuit, the feed fuse on the primary of the high voltage transformer and then finally, the magnetron is best checked by substitution.

If the magnetron has failed it is possible that it has taken out the mains fuse. Replace all faulty components with identical types and values!
Hope that helps.

should be access panel to bulb,probably held closed with a screw or clip of some kind,sorry couldnt be of more help

Pretty easy to change.Maybe cash and carry would be a little cheaper, or even trying an appliance dealer to see if they can get the same thing. Perhaps contacting manufacturer of microwave directly will help. (www.dometicusa.com) There was some recalls on some of the models. Are you sure it's not just sitting in an opening above the range hood. Most are just 4 screws or so, and out they come from opening above that.

You can download owner's manuals and installation instructions for several brands (including Amana, Frigidaire, Jenn-Air, Kitchenaid, Litton, Maytag, Roper, Tappan, Thermador and Whirlpool) here.

Enter it as MMV1153WB0 (no dash, zero on the end, not "oh")

Or just get it here, to be more exact.
On page 4, it says:

"Installing/Replacing Filters and Light Bulbs
■ Grease filter: Grease filter is on the underside of microwave
oven. Clean monthly. Slide the filter away from the tab area,
and drop out the filter. To reinstall, place end of the filter into
the opening opposite the tab area, swing up the other end,
and slide it toward the tab area.
■ Charcoal filter: The charcoal filter is behind the vent grille at the
top front of the microwave oven. The charcoal filter cannot be
cleaned, and should be replaced about every 6 months.
Remove 2 screws on the vent grille, tilt the grille forward, lift it
out, and remove filter. To reinstall, place the filter into its slotted
area – wire mesh side up, replace vent grille, and secure with
screws.
■ Cooktop light(s): The cooktop light bulb(s) is(are) located on
the underside of the microwave oven, and is(are) replaceable.
Remove bulb cover screw, and open the bulb cover. Replace
bulb, close bulb cover, and secure with screw.
■ Cavity light: The cavity light bulb is located behind the vent
grille at the top front of the microwave oven, under the bulb
cover, and is replaceable. Remove 2 screws on the vent grille,
tilt the grille forward, and lift it out. Open bulb cover and
replace bulb. Close bulb cover, replace vent grille, and secure
with screws."

HINT: Unplug the oven before removing or installing the bulbs, or you may need this service.

You can find links to helpful exploded view diagrams and part ordering help here.

I recommend that you bookmark that link to your favorites. Hope this covers it.

William E. Miller
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

This is usually caused by either a bad door switch or a loose door switch mount, which are pretty simple problems to fix.

Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.

Door switch or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.

The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.

Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.

If the switch mount is broken, it's usually more economical and safer to add a dab or two of hot glue to the mount to secure the switch. Let it cool for about 30 minutes before using.

One test that sometimes helps is to gently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount or door alignment issue.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, & testing.



Or you can view and download it here.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

If you only need a switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.

If you've recently had trouble with your cooktop lights, one may have shorted, causing a problem on your control circuit board, which we regularly repair for $39.95 in about a week or so with a one-year guarantee.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com