After first Ignition cycle igniter stays on too briefly to open gas valve gas.

I believe you need to replace the direct spark ignition module, but refer to the note below.
Direct spark ignition module. NOTE: This part is often misdiagnosed. Use the wiring diagram and check for an open circuit through the gas valve. Also inspect the igniter and burner tube.

Is the ignition sparking? When you press and hold down the buttons, the ignition should be sparking at the centre electrode. At the same time when you hold the buttons down, the gas valve is manually held open to release the gas. The spark is then supposed to ignite the gas. Hold the knobs down for about 3 to 5 seconds after ignition and the gas valve will stay on. If it lights but the flame wont stay on, it could be anything from a partially blocked aeration port to a worn knob. When you push down on the knob, it is supposed to press down on an electromagnetic lock which keeps the gas valve open when the flame is burning. When the knob or shaft isn't pushing down enough, it doesn't keep the gas valve locked and the flame will go out as soon as you let the knob go.

The SPK Code, indicates that there is power to Igniter and should be producing a Spark to ignite fuel! If this is actually the case, then it is NOT a safety sensor issue, The igniter serves a dual purpose: produce a spark, and then CONFIRM a flame is consuming the fuel. If it does not get a proper Milivolt reading, then gas valve will shut off, hence a cycle occurs. Not enough reading is the same to the heater as no reading! Safety issue. If gas valve stays open, and no flame to consume raw fuel, it will build up and accumulate then when ignition takes place, it go...BOOM! Not Good.
Either insufficient fuel supply/pressure or faulty igniter. It's also not a Gas Valve. It's a simple switching valve, either open or closed.

I don't know what kind of furnace you have. But most furnaces have some sort of pilot first than after it is proven than the main gas will come on. Either a standing Pilot with a thermocouple. A hot surface ignition or Spark ignition with a flame sensor. Or a direct fire system where hot surface or spark ignitor start first than all the burners send a 1 sec blast of gas which is proven by the flame sensor if it proves the gas valve stays on.....
In what you have said you have 24 volts to the gas valve and it has not lite. then does the gas valve have a pilot tube???Does it have a thermocouple?? Do you smell gas?? If you don't smell gas then the main part of the valve has not opened. The Pilot valve has to open first and prove before the main gas will come on. I hope this helps. If you still need help repost with the name and model # of the furnace.

If this is an ELECTRIC dryer, the following link will give you some advice on how to troubleshoot a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

If this is a GAS dryer, the most common failure for heat related problems in a gas dryer is a weak or blown igniter on the burner assembly. The way the ignition system is supposed to work is like this:

1. Select the dryer cycle and press start.
2. The drum begins to spin and the igniter begins to glow.
3. Once the igniter reaches a certain current potential, the gas safety valve opens.
4. Gas is introduced into the manifold and you have ignition.

1. NOTE: It can take roughly 30 – 90 seconds from the time you start the dryer to the time it takes for the gas to ignite.

NOTE: This is a designed safety feature of the appliance that prevents free flowing gas from accumulating in your home without ignition. That’s why you typically don’t hear any gas flowing when you have an igniter problem. You might think you have a gas problem when actually you have an ignition problem.

TWO BASIC IGNITER TYPES:

Carborundum (Cylindrical in shape) – needs to produce 2.5 to 3.0 amps for the gas safety valve to work.
Norton (Rectangular in shape) – needs to produce 3.2 to 3.7 amps for the gas safety valve to work.

NOTE: There is a UNIVERSAL FLAT BAR igniter on the market as well, that can be used as a substitute if the igniter type that came with your range is not available.

The igniter typically goes bad in one of two ways, the igniter either stops glowing completely, or becomes weak over time and doesn’t produce enough current to open the gas safety valve (in this case the igniter will still glow but the dryer still won’t light). Longer ignition times can be another symptom of an igniter possibly going bad.

You can purchase a replacement at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The first three sites on the list also offer some excellent exploded view diagrams of the appliance.

If your replacement igniter comes with a connector plug that does not match your appliance, you will be instructed to cut the old plug off and splice the wires together using ceramic wire lugs included in the kit. Do not use standard wire lugs as they will melt.

If you have any questions, please post back with your complete model number (located on a nameplate around the door opening) and let me know. I hope this helps you.

Hi, It sounds like that the coils on top of the gas valve are not opening the valve later in the cycle. They get weak enough ovwer heat and will not open the valve. You can listen for the ignitor to click on and then you can hear the gas ignite. If late in the cycle you hear the igniter click and then no gas ignition, change the coils.
You should also make sure the vent going to the outside is clear of any lint or kinked.
I hope this helps you. Please let me know if I can assist you further.

Vic

If the burners do not fully ignite, the sensor will shut the furnace down. The lack of sufficient burner flame is a gas valve or gas pressure problem within the valve.
Replacing the gas valve with the original one may get you going. I surely suggest a professional service company for safety reasons and a thorough inspection. A 20 year old furnace is past it's normal life span.

Hello and welcome to FixYA!
You are 100% correct in your suspicion that the oven ignitor is at fault. If you want to know "for certain" you can check that ignitor in circuit using an amprobe and looking for at least 2.9 amps, however I would say all you need do is replace that ignitor and your oven should return to proper operation. The gas smell is a result of an ignitor being on the "ragged edge" of being able to open the warp switch in the gas valve. Instead of opening up, it is "burping" the valve enough for you to smell gas. Your part number is a
12400035 and sells for around $50 or so, depending where you buy it.
Thanks for using the FixYA! service!

The gas burner assembly uses solenoid coils in a circuit with the flame sensor to safely ignite the burner. When the dryer starts a heated cycle, the circuit through those components is energized. The igniter glows until it reaches the proper temperature to ignite the gas, at which point the flame sensor trips open and the current flowing through that circuit is diverted to the gas valve coils so the gas valves open, and the burner lights and continues to burn. If the solenoid coils on the gas valves fail, the gas valves won't open for ignition. If the gas valve coils are weak, the burner lights during the initial ignition sequence from a cold start but it fails to light the burner on subsequent ignition attempts. In this situation, replace the valve coils. I Had the same problem with mine and I fixed for like $25.00 US. Its not hard to do look at the video. Either buy your part from them or to get it fast and not out of this world go to "repairclinic.com

thi is either a sensor or the control module