Cable jumps off of roller at end of boom

1. Loosen needle screw & insert needle with shank's flat side facing front of machine. Push needle in all the way, then tighten screw to hold needle in place.
2. Install a fully wound bobbin by loosening bobbin nut & placing bobbin on top. Re-attach bobbin nut & tighten. If standard thread spool will be used, then attach spool pin to bobbin shaft & place thread spool onto shaft. Attach white spool cap on end of thread spool, then tighten. Bobbin/spool should unwind facing forward toward needle.
3. Bring end of thread through thread guides & over tension control. Pass end of thread through needle eye, from back to front, & pull it out about two inches.
4. A spring pushes pressor foot onto fabric that is being sewn, so lift pressor foot & place fabric underneath.
5. Turn large handwheel on side of machine (handwheel can be turned in either direction) to raise needle arm to its highest position.
6. Holding the Handy Stitch in place with your right hand, press on power switch & begin sewing. Guide fabric (being sewn) with your left hand.
7. To end this sewing session, turn off power. Turn handwheel to raise needle to its highest position. Carefully pull out about three inches of thread through needle & snip, then lift pressor foot to remove fabric. Turn fabric over & loop needle threader through last stitch. Place end of thread from underside through eye of needle threader, & pull to loop through. Pull to tighten and snip end of thread.

Since this is a split-boom machine, disassembly and inspection will be required. This unit has basically, 2 drive shafts and a clutch (up near the engine at the end of the engine's crankshaft). There is a drive shaft in the upper boom and one in the lower boom. Either the clutch or one of the drive shafts has malfunctioned.The string head SHOULD NOT spin with the engine idling. There is a centrifugal clutch that engages when the engine reaches a certain speed, in turn, it turns the upper drive shaft.
First, check the string head area for tangled string, wire, line or debris around the center shaft. Long grass can end up wrapped around that area and severely affect movement. Dissasemble the head and inspect. Make sure you can turn the string head by hand. If so, good/
To inpect lower drive shaft, just uncouple it from the upper one. Grasp the end of the driveshaft and turn it. Does it feel OK? Does the string head turn when you turn the drive? If not, you at least have a problem in the lower boom. If all is well, then proceed to inspect the upper boom.
Unscrew the main (uppper) boom from the front of the engine. If you can remove it out of the clutch drum and off then you will be able to inspect it. If the throttle cable and/or wires from the STOP switch are restricting you, you will need to remove the throttle cable from the engine's carburetor and try to get some slack in the switch wires. Those wires go to the ignition coil module under the engine cover.
When you have the upper boom off and can access the drive shaft, turn it to check it. Make sure the other end of it turns. If both drive shafts check out OK, then the clutch will need to be inspected. Post back if needed.

Not very difficult if like my '99. Be sure to purchase the correct hinge for "power" door. Here are the steps:

• Remove rear tail light (2 screws and pull from socket)
• Remove two screws from rear of hinge cover panel
• Remove bolt from front of hinge cover panel
• Open door around one foot and rest the back end on something about the same height
• Remove the three bolts from the hinge connecting it to the door
• Loosen slack on cable by unbolting pulley under inside rear panel (tire tool storage on driver side)
• Slide broken hinge out back of rail
• Replace new hinge and put all back together

I don't know if there is a simpler way to loosen the slack on the cable, but this is how I did mine.
Hope this helps.

Thread the rope into the spool and knot the end, pull a 6 to 8 inch bit of slack from between the spool and the outer cover and let the rope set into the small indentation on the outside of the spool. Rotate the spool with rope attached and sitting in the notch in the opposite direction of recoil until sufficient tension is achieved, pull slack back through feed hole in cover and allow the spool to draw the rope into the spool, now attach the handle.
the notch in the spool is there to allow you to spin the spool without twisting the rope or having it bind on the cover.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_78ecbb34e27be215

I could not find a guide for this model.

If there is a knob in the center of the handwheel, it needs to be loosened.

Take the thread from the spool around the first guide and then to toward the bobbin winder.

Run the end of the thread through an opening in the side of the bobbin spool.

Hold onto about 5" of the thread and place the bobbin spool onto the bobbin pin and move the pin to the right or the winding wheel to the left (depends on how your machine is designed).

Holding onto the thread end, press the power pedal.

When you cannot hold onto the thread any longer, stop the machine and cut off the thread end and then continue to wind the bobbin.

Disengage the bobbin winder (move the pin or the wheel back into place) and tighten the knob in the center of the handwheel before sewing.

The roller drive belt may be stripped, worn partway through where it goes around the motor shaft, thrown off the motor shaft, or broken. Take the bottom plate off the carpet sweeper and have a look.

If the belt was damaged when the roller brush got stuck, then you get to replace it. On most of these, the easiest way is to put the new belt around the roller pulley, reinstall the roller, stretch the belt around the end of the motor shaft, then turn the motor by hand while pushing the belt on. If the motor also has a pulley on it, you may have to remove the motor screws to get enough slack on the belt, then pull the motor into place and put the screws back in.

it comes out but you have to lossen the screws holding the engine on at the base and pull it out? the other end has a locking nut remove the spool and loosen

You shouldn't have to remove it. Just wide the disk up again to get tension on the recoil spring (lots of tension... enough to pull the rope all the way back in). poke the rope back out the hole ( the hardest part of the job) and put the handle back on. You should be back in action

You're on the right track! If you remove the paper tray and put the printer in a position so the front of it is facing up, you can then access the roller shaft with ease. If you now look on the right hand side of the roller shaft you will see a white plastic end which is secured onto the shaft with a little clip, lift this up and slide the plastic part inwards. This should now make the shaft easy to turn so you can release the two white clips on the roller and remove the rubber band (which there is only one of, but looks like two on a first glance). Once removed, I just turned it inside out so you can get another few months or more out of it before you have to buy a brand new one for a couple of ££. Replacement is just the reverse of removal. Hope this help!

 

This guide should help.....

 

http://reviews.ebay.com/CHANGING-THE-BELT-ON-A-KIRBY-G3-G4-G5-GSIX-ULTIMATE-G_W0QQugidZ10000000003720039

 

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Marci