One day i was driving and listening to my stereo. then the amp shut off then back on and again and again. then just went out. i replaced and overlooked all wires. now it turns on fine but now im only getting half the power to the subs then before? what could cause this problem and can i fix it
One problem could be that you have inserted the rca input plugs in an incorrect manner (if the amp is a 4channel model). check the crossover freq setting on the amp, maybe it has been turned too low e.g. turn up to freq level around 80-100hz. check the phasing of the sub speaker connections. if they connected out of phase you will get half the bass. there could be many reasons why bass is low. check these common faults first. cheers
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MY BEST GUESS FROM WHAT YOU HAVE SAID IS THAT THE BOX WAS TO SMALL. BUT YOU ARE OVERPOWERING THE SUB RUNNING IT AT 2 OHMS ON A 750 WATT AMP WITH A SUB THAT IS ONLY RATED FOR 600. NO MATTER HOW FAR YOU TURN YOUR SETTINGS DOWN, YOUR STILL PUSHING TO MUCH POWER FOR THE SUB TO HANDLE. IT IS ONLY RATED 600 WATTS FOR A REASON. ESPECIALLY IF YOU LISTEN TO MUSIC THAT HAS A REAL LOW END AND THEN A HARD HIT. REMEMBER A HARD HIT WILL SPIKE YOUR AMPS OUTPUT THEREFORE PUSHING MORE WATTAGE TO THE SUB.
What are the exact model numbers of those amps? More than likely your 2.8K Watt amp is a complete lie, very few amps can deliver that power, if you paid under $1000 for it it's probably not likely to ever do that output, also some amps are rated at higher input voltages like 19 volts or more to achieve there advertised output but even then most will only do a fraction of what they claim. At 12volts and making those claims you'll find that Boss is a prime example so is the low end Lanzar along with many others out for sale now a days. A 2800 watt MAX amp rating is really a 150 watt x 2 output and that will be at 2 ohms, I'm not sure how it all started but way back when (back in the late 80's early 90's) there were only amps that had real power ratings and they were 25watts x 2 up to 200 watts x2 and the 25 watt amps were louder than most of these 1000watt amps you see now. A true 200 watt x 2 amp bridged in mono back then would deliver 800Watts into 4 ohms 1600 watts into 2 ohms and cost about a dollar a watt. The 25 watt x 2 amps I had would put out 400 watts in mono at 1 ohm. So you see power ratings now are just not even anything you can use unless the amp is certified to be compliant with the new car stereo rating system. Even then I cannot guarantee which amp will be louder or sound better without actually connecting it up and hearing it myself. That's how car stereo shopping used to be, you listened to the amps all side by side and realized that size, cost and power ratings make no difference until you hear the amps, then size & cost are considered. Power ratings are then forgotten all together.
Let me address the wiring kit first. No the higher wattage kit is not a problem however you will need to change the inline fuse to an amperage that is more suitable for 250 Watts. The amps main fuse will be able to protect the power supply but no need to have a larger fuse than needed.
Now lets talk about the fuse. First off what kind of amp is it? Just for my knowledge. What is the rated impedance that amp can drive bridged mono or stereo (however you have connected it) If the total impedance presented by the woofers is lower than what the amp can drive the amplifiers power supply will demand more current than is designed for. I guess what I need to know is the model of speaker, model of amplifier and size of the inline fuse (right next to battery). Initial diagnosis would say the load on the amp is too large.
Rule of thumb for calculating impedance. The easy way if you have two or more characteristic impedance that are equal then you can add them and divide by the number of impedance to get your total Load however the formula is as follows,
1/((1/Z1)+(1/Z2)+(1/Z3)+(1/Z4)) or (Z1^-1 +Z2^-1+Z3^-1+Z4^-1)^-1 (They are the same thing, just written differently)
In electrical terms Z is your impedance, the negative exponent just means reciprocal.
So in your case if you have 2 dual voice coil subwoofers with a 4 ohm per coil impedance. If you parallel the two coils you would have a 2 ohm impedance. Then if you parallel the two woofers you would have a 1 ohm impedance. This is to low of a load for your amp to drive.
it will power them but it will only push a small amount of wattage to them. something like 45 watts so they won't be very loud but if you run the wires you will hear them. It's beneficial to just invest in an amp you can pick up a 200 watt pretty cheap these days. and you will be much happier with the end result.
first whats the range in terms of WATTS that your 12" sub can handle in 4 OHMS ? second , lets check the AMP , POWER ACOUSTIK 1800 WATTS , Now thats a lot of power to drive a single 12" sub speaker . your amp is 1800 watts , per channel is around 500 watts , if BRIDGE thats around 1600 watts rms for ONE channel , if your sub can handle that kind of wattage fine , but it will not blow the amp , what it does is shuts down , some kind of protection mode , it will come back on after a minute or so. I suggest to use one channel in stereo mode , or purchase another sub to use the other channel. i hope this helps AJ
check the wattage of the speakers, they could be drawing too many watts from your amplifier, if you plug in a speaker that's more than the channel, it could harm your amp.
for example a 200 watt stereo, with 4 channels that equals 50 watts per speaker.
sounds like the ohm load of your speakers is incorrect and overloaded the amp,....check all your specs, i.e. max, min ohm load on stereo, and speakers,...this stuff is important and must be within the range allowed or stuff like your experiencing happens,.....it's happened to me before,.....fried my amp because i had house speakers in my van, was great for about 3 loud days,....good luck, cracklin joe,.......
I had this same exact problem when my last older Kenwood Marine stereo cooked itself while I had it up loud for a few weekends on the lake. (smelled like it had burned inside). I went out and bought a new Kenwood KMR-550u stereo deck. (I do not have an additional amp). I hooked it up to the exact connections where my older Kenwood stereo unit had been hooked up, as I never had a problem with this for the past three years until it failed after smelling of burning elelectrical. I had chalked the problem up to heavy rain we had one day. Every time I turned up the volume, sometimes up to 27 out of 35 possible, or 29, or 32, the stereo would suddenly shut off as if I had turned it off. After a few seconds the stereo would come back on, but unless I was quick enough to turn down the volume it would do it again right away. Of course on a boat, we were beached in a cove and the engine was not running when I encountered this. I searched the internet finding hundreds of similar complaints and several dozen theories of all types, but only a couple that pointed me towards the power (voltage) idea as the problem. I put a volt meter on the positive & negative wires powering the stereo. I watched as I gradually turned up the volume, the voltage on the power wire gradually decreased from 12.5 volts, down into the 11 range, and as it hit 10.9 or 10.8 volts it shut off typically around a volume of 32. The red power wire in my boat that never seemed to have an issue with my old stereo until it fried was determined to actually be inadequate for the power flow for the new Kenwood, and probably was the culprit of my failed older unit. I offer this sound advice: Run a new pair of positive & negative wires directly from the battery (with an appropriate fuse of course (the deck has a 10 amp fuse in it's back so I would use that at the battery) to the stereo. Check the voltage as you turn the volume up into the high 20's and low 30's to ensure you are still getting voltage in the mid to high 11-12 volt range. The stereo is designed to require a minimum of 10.8 volts to operate, and when it drops below that it protects itself and shuts down.