Motor never turns itself off

If the driver on your Activa DX-3H20A is not turning, there could be several possible causes. Here are a few troubleshooting steps you can try:

1. Check the power source: Ensure that the power supply to the driver is properly connected and providing the correct voltage. Check the power cord and any switches or controls associated with the driver to ensure they are in the correct position.
2. Inspect the motor: The issue may lie with the motor itself. Check for any loose connections or damaged wiring that may be preventing the motor from receiving power. If you have access to a multimeter, you can use it to check for continuity and voltage at various points in the motor circuit.
3. Check the drive mechanism: Examine the drive mechanism of the driver, including belts, gears, and pulleys, for any signs of damage, wear, or misalignment. Make sure everything is properly lubricated and functioning smoothly. Tighten any loose components as necessary.
4. Consult the user manual: If you have the user manual for your Activa DX-3H20A, refer to it for specific troubleshooting steps and guidance provided by the manufacturer. It may have additional information or troubleshooting tips specific to your model.

the capacitor is correct for the motor
all it does is supply an over voltage burst to start the motor turning, then to keep it running while the switch is on
if the capacitor was faulty in the original motor then the motor will burn out as that over voltage is not there but the current to run the motor is so the motor over heats and burns
as to the constant running it is important to check how you attached the wires to the new motor as you may have a power wire direct to the motor instead of through the switch control

The first thing to do is determine if the engine is reaching proper operating temperature. If the engine thermostat is defective the heater will not work at cruise speeds but will warm up at idle after a moment.

The dial is driven by a synchronous motor which seems to have failed. You might be able to replace the motor itself, otherwise the whole timer will have to be changed.

you have a problem with the motor circuit drawing more amperage than the fuse will allow. it could be the motor itself, or something that is keep the motor from turning freely. otherwise it's a wiring problem. i would suggest unplugging the motor, and then turning on the fan. hopefully, if there is some short to ground, which sounds unlikely, the fuse will blow. otherwise i suggest replacing the blower motor. good luck!

Intermittent Speed Windshield Wipers
The intermittent wiper speed is activated with grounds controlled by the multifunction switch inputs to the windshield wiper motor module. The windshield wiper motor module then activates the windshield wiper RUN/PARK relay coil and switches voltage through the windshield wiper high/low relay. The high/low relay remains deactivated supplying the voltage to the wiper motor low speed input and activates the windshield wiper motor. When the windshield wiper motor module receives the grounded input, the motor continues to operate until Hall effect senses magnet to turn off RUN/PARK sense the output to the windshield wiper RUN/PARK software, deactivating the relay and disconnecting voltage to the wiper motor. The windshield wipers remain parked until the windshield wiper motor module completes a time-out and then repeats the intermittent windshield wiper cycle.

• The intermittent windshield wiper speed does not operate correctly

• Multifunction switch.
• Circuitry.
• Windshield wiper motor.

• Go To Pinpoint Test D .

Pinpoint Test D: The Intermittent Windshield Wiper Speed Does Not Operate Correctly
Normal Operation During normal operation, the windshield wiper motor receives voltage at all times through battery junction box (BJB) fuse 1 (30A), circuit 65 (DG). The windshield wiper motor also receives power with the ignition switch in RUN or ACC positions through central junction box (CJB) fuse 33 (15A), circuit 1002 (BK/PK). Ground is provided to the windshield wiper motor through circuit 676 (PK/OG) and circuit 57 (BK). The run/park and high/low relays are contained in the wiper motor electronics. Mode of operation is dependant on the signal(s) received from the multifunction switch.

Possible Causes
• Multifunction switch
• Open in circuit 57 (BK), 56 (DB/OG), 61 (YE/RD) or 63 (RD)
• Windshield wiper motor

PINPOINT TEST D: THE INTERMITTENT WINDSHIELD WIPER SPEED DOES NOT OPERATE CORRECTLY Test Step Result / Action to Take D1 CHECK THE MULTIFUNCTION SWITCH

• Key in OFF position.
• Disconnect: Multifunction Switch C202b.
• Carry out the multifunction switch component test. Refer to Wiring Diagrams Cell 149 for schematic and connector information.
  
• Did the multifunction switch pass the component test?

Yes
GO to D2 .

No
INSTALL a new multifunction switch. REFER to Section 211-05 . TEST the system for normal operation. D2 CHECK CIRCUIT 57 (BK) FOR OPEN

• Measure the resistance between multifunction switch C202b-6, circuit 57 (BK), harness side and ground.
• Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?

Yes
GO to D3 .

No
REPAIR the circuit. TEST the system for normal operation. D3 CHECK CIRCUITS 56 (DB/OG), 61 (YE/RD) AND 63 (RD) FOR OPENS

• Disconnect: Windshield Wiper Motor C125.
• Using the following table, measure the resistance between multifunction switch C202b harness side and windshield wiper motor C125 harness side:
  
  Multifunction Switch C202b Windshield Wiper Motor C125 Pin 2, circuit 56 (DB/OG) Pin 10, circuit 56 (DB/OG) Pin 4, circuit 61 (YE/RD) Pin 1, circuit 61 (YE/RD) Pin 1, circuit 63 (RD) Pin 9, circuit 63 (RD) Pin 3, circuit 58 (WH) Pin 11, circuit 58 (WH)
• Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?

Yes
GO to D4 .

No
REPAIR the circuit(s) in question. TEST the system for normal operation. D4 CHECK FOR CORRECT WIPER MOTOR OPERATION

• Disconnect all wiper motor connectors.
• Check for:
  • corrosion.
  • pushed-out pins.
• Connect all wiper motor connectors and make sure they seat correctly.
• Operate the system and verify the concern is still present.
• Is the concern still present?

Yes
GO to D5 .

No
The system is operating correctly at this time. Concern may have been caused by a loose or corroded connector. TEST the system for normal operation. D5 CHECK THE WINDSHIELD WIPER MOTOR

• Key in OFF position.
• Disconnect: Windshield Wiper Motor C125.
• Carry out the windshield wiper motor component test as outlined in this section.
• Did the windshield wiper motor pass the component test?

Yes
The system is operating correctly at this time. Concern may have been caused by incorrect binding pivot arm adjustment. REFER to Wiper Blade and Pivot Arm Adjustment in this section. TEST the system for normal operation.

No
INSTALL a new windshield wiper motor. REFER to Windshield Wiper Motor in this section.

IM guessing your icemaker is not working either. these symptoms are caused by your evaporator fan motor not blowing air throughout cabinet. However, your problem could be the motor itself not operating correctly, wr60x10185, or the main control board is not operating correctly, wr55x10942. the problem with the board can and often will be caused due to a faulty motor, so both have to be replaced. It would be much too long for me to explain how to test everything you need to test to see source of problem, but your symptoms are definitely caused by that fan motor not running.

www.FixMyFridge.net

Found spare parts supplier on web thank you. Hopefully it will be the correct turntable motor - otherwise, I will just have to buy a new Microwave.
PR

I had this problem also: power to the motor, motor not running.

Solution was simple: remove the 2 stators things from the sides of the main housing, clean all the black dust off them, re-insert and everything works fine.

The dust problem is similar to model train sets that I had as a kid at Christmas, the black dust acts as an insulator, preventing power from travelling between two metal parts that you'd think otherwise would conduct.

• Hi,
  
  
  please try this...
  imer:
          On mechanical set ups the timer is attached to the detergent cup by an actuator arm. This arm is usually plastic, and if it is broken or otherwise defective then the detergent cup wont be opened. Check the linkage to make sure it is functioning correctly.
  Bi-metal switch or wax motor:
          The bi-metal switch is simply a very precise device that warps, bends, or otherwise deforms when power is supplied to it. The timer operates the bi-metal switch, which inside the dishwasher door. Then the switch is supplied with power and it is working properly, the bi-metal switch deforms away from the latch holding the detergent cup closed and the cup opens dumping the detergent into the washer.
          Some dishwashers have this switch wired through the motor power feed or the heating element. If they are defective then the detergent door will not operate correctly. If the switch itself is defective then you will need to replace it. Another type of mechanism is a wax motor. Wax motors are sealed units filled with wax and found in newer dishwashers and work by heating the wax and forcing up a piston which in turn mechanically opens the detergent cup door. This type of device is also controlled by the timer.
   
  Detergent cup:
          Sometimes the detergent cup becomes built up with old detergent that prevents it from opening correctly. It's usually a simple fix to clean this out. If cleaning it is impossible then you may need to replace the cup assembly.
  
  please rate my suggestion..