I dropped my camera the other day and now it is not working very well. The normal shutter release will not work, and neither will the light meter. I was using it with the back up mechanical shutter release, and just shooting at a 60th, with my hand held light meter. After the last photo I shot the lens stayed open, and I haven't been able to get it close. I tried changing the batteries and that didn't help.
There are a number of things that could be causing this and none of them are good. The impact could have torn the main circuit. If it hit on the rewind side there is an expensive glass disk (glass is used for temperature stability) called a FRE that has contacts on it for the ASA and aperture information to be sent to the main circuit. This is easily broken. You may also have damaged the shutter speed unit or its flex.
SOURCE: How do I put the neg and Pos 1.5 batteries in Nikon F3
If you undo the battery cap and pull it out , then hold it under a bright light you will see a picture of the batteries with their orientation depicted on the side of the plastic sleeves that will hold the batteries. Look for the shape of the batteries and make sure you load them in that same orientation.
Once loaded, remember that you need to pull the advance level back about 20 degrees to activate the power and the light meter.
SOURCE: light meter not working
Make sure the battery lid is securely screwed on, The meter wont work before the '1' frame. i just found out last week about this. make several clicks till the '1' mark appears, now check the meter if its working. [A] - aperture prio
SOURCE: I am borrowing a Nikon F3 35mm film camera but I
This is normal. The meter is extremely accurate and as long as you're very close to getting the "+ -" indication then you're good to go. Half stop positions are available on the lens aperture scale precisely to help you get the metering close enough.
Negative film has a wide exposure latitude and exposure errors of just half a stop will not be noticeable in any way on the final print. Even errors of one stop will often be insignificant as the printing stage gives the opportunity to compensate for errors at the exposure stage. It's a different matter with slide film though as there is no second stage but even then you need to be aware that the meter indication is a centre-weighted average of what's on view in the finder. So as long as you're paying attention to important highlight and shadow details you can use the meter as an indication and base the actual aperture and shutter speed on informed judgement.
You may also want to look at an online user manual for the F3: http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf3ver2/f3manual/index.htm
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SOURCE: I have an old Nikon FG 35mm Camera that I haven't
Were the old batteries left in when you stored it? Alkaline cells can leak and cause corrosion, no matter what anyone says. A coating of metal salts on the battery contacts could be the problem. I hesitate to suggest that you may have put the cells in the wrong way up, or forgotten where the on/off switch is, but these will certainly stop the cameras working.
SOURCE: Shutter release button on my
Hi,
When the batteries in an F3 die, though the film can still be advanced,
the photographer is limited to a single mechanical shutter speed of
approximately 1/60 second. It is tripped by a secondary fully
mechanical shutter release. Works fine when camera is attached to a motor drive because it uses the drivers power...Pls replace the batteries as one of the following is okay.....
Hope this helps!
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Thanks
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I need to know what I can do to get the light meter and the shutter release working again. I am always able to advance the film, and everything on the lens is working fine, but the battery operated functions aren't working. And I can't continue using it with the mechanical shutter release, because sometimes the shutter just stays open. Help please!
where did it hit - on what side?
I think it hit on the front right side- it fell with the front facing down, and I grabbed the lens.
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