Blue color I've been using my projector for about a year now. The lamp hasn't reach it's projected lifetime in hours yet but last week the projector started to project everything in a blue color. I can see the images and text but cannot read it and see the images good enough because it is to dark(Bleuish). It looks like the blue background is projected on the images and text. It is a big problem for me because I'm using my projector everyday in the classroom at an elementary school. My kids are missing it because they like how all the lessons are coming to life in the classroom and now we have to go back to the traditional way. I hope someone can help me out. Thank You.

SOURCE: getting image to project

You are going to have to read the manual, and operate the projector as you read each section

SOURCE: Bleeding blue color upon projection

Yes you can replace the lamp, but service in must including the RGB Panels for the same. that will solve ur problem.

Viren

SOURCE: Blue tint on projector.

My DV10 problem was as follows: After 10-15 minutes the picture would gradually change tint toward the green/blue/purple and the smooth color transitions would also change to harsh obvious transitions. No control adjustments could compensate for this problem. Turning the unit off for a short while and turning it back on would repeat this process

After doing a bit of research I determined the most likely culprit was the color wheel. Since the unit is out of warranty, I opened up the case and, wearing surgical gloves, removed the color wheel. As I suspected it was a bit "gummy". When I manually tried to give it a spin it was somewhat stiff. I got a syringe I keep around just for this sort of application (I work on PC's) and sucked up a few drops of household 3-in-1 oil and then carefully directed it into the cavity back (opposite the glass color wheel) while carefully rotating the unit in my hand to disperse the oil evenly. The front, (color wheel side) is closed so adding oil there does nothing. I carefully spun the wheel manually for a while, reapplied another drop or two of oil, spun it again, and it soon loosened up quite nicely. After blowing out the dust, I reassembled everything and tested the unit out for a couple hours. So far so good. No issues at all.

I'm going to try to give dis-assembly instructions but I'm doing this from memory so in no way is this meant to be an exact step by step guide.

1) Remove 6 screws from bottom of unit. (I'm not sure if this step was necessary but I also removed the lamp at this time.)

2) Remove the two screws from DVD bay.

3) Using something like a small flat tip screwdriver, wedge and remove the DVD bay door. There are 2 plastic protrusions which act as hinge points. Carefully flex the door near one of these until you can slide the door out. Remove the spring from the door. NOTE: Its common sense, but be sure to examine how it was inserted so you can put it back together correctly.

4) Remove the last screw holding the cover on- which should be visible once the door is removed.

5) You should now be able to lift the upper circular portion of the unit but only partially as it is attached by ribbon and wire connections. These will have to be carefully disconnected. You release the clamping mechanism on ribbon connections by gently wedging the ends up, alternating ends until the ribbon comes out quite easily. Employ a similar tactic disconnecting the plastic wire connectors. Never pull on the wires or ribbons with anything more than the gentlest touch. Untape any wires or ribbons from the metal surface, leaving the tape in place for use during re-assembly.

6) Remove the screws attaching the top metal plate and lift the plate while freeing it from the wires and ribbon by carefully threading them through their corresponding slots.

7) What and where the glass color wheel is should be obvious now. There are 2 screws attaching it to the frame and 1 screw attaching a circuit board to its mount. Carefully remove these.

8) Carefully remove the 3 screws holding the mount to the color wheel unit. NOTE: During re-assembly, remounting this must be done with the proper orientation or it will not re-mount to the frame correctly, so be sure to notice the orientation.

9) Carefully apply oil as described above, or in any similarly accurate way. Loosen the glass wheel by gently rotating it- being sure to only contact the edges of the wheel.

I advise you not to touch the glass surfaces at any time. I would also suggest you do not attempt to clean it in any way, other than perhaps using some compressed air to remove dust. I noticed some slight discoloration, or fogginess might be a better description, but I did not attempt to clean it, and after assembly, the picture looks good. I took this opportunity to give the entire DV10 unit, especially the fan, a good blowing out with compressed air. If you check the fan and notice it seems a bit gummy, you may want to remove the label (mine was Sunon) and apply a drop or three of oil to the axle while manually spinning the fan to help get a thorough dispersion. You may have to tilt the unit to direct the oil as needed. Be sure to tape the area the label covered as it acts as a dust preventative. Try to apply the tape uniformly (symmetrically) as it can have the slightest affect on the balance which over time may cause undue wear.

10) Reassemble the unit and if you are anything like me, instantly remove your sweaty hands from the surgical gloves and go wash them. Now test the unit.

Remember, patience is always required when attempting this sort of repair. Never force anything. If you find something isn't responding as I've described, do not force it. As I've said, I recounted these instructions from memory and perhaps I missed a screw or a step. I disassembled this unit without any instruction at all so I'm confident if you proceed with patience, caution, and some common sense, you too will be successful. Of course, I take no responsibility for any problems which may arise from following these suggestions. You use them at your own risk.

For those who need to order a new color wheel, the part is #70.81R26GR01 and is costs $129.00 US + shipping from the service center shown in the info below. In case these instructions seem too unclear or beyond you, and you just want to send the unit in, I've included a generic support email below.

Good Luck.
Timogin

(Quoted from an email)

In response to your inquiry: All units that come to service must have an RMA number and there will be a $160 prepayment fee per unit. Packages without RMA number may or will be rejected. If you wish to send your unit for repair, please complete the attached RMA Request Form and fax or email it to back us with your signature. Once we receive your information, an RMA number will be issued and will be emailed or fax with shipping instructions.
If you wish to go ahead with the repair, the labor is $100 per unit plus parts. $160 prepayment fee will go towards the labor and return shipping – SIGNATURE REQUIRED.
If you wish not to go ahead with the repair, you will be charged $160 prepayment only per unit.
The turn around time to evaluate the unit and to email or fax the repair estimate is between 1-3 business days. Our turn around time to repair the unit is between 2-5 business days from the day we receive your authorization and maybe longer in case of part shortage.
If the prepayment of $160 is being made by check, we will need a copy of the check to issue an RMA number. Please make Check payable to Technical Service Corporation (subsidiary of Optoma Technology, Inc).
Please note that we do not accept P.O. numbers unless your Company or School has an account with us. If your Company or School has an account with TSC, simply fax us a copy of the PO with the amount of $160.00 along with the RMA request form to issue an RMA number. P.O should be payable to Technical Service Corporation (Subsidiary of Optoma Technology, Inc).
NOTE: Pre-payment will not be charged until the end of process.
If you have questions, simply email or call us between 7:00 am to 5:00 pm PST.

Thanks,
Alma Gutierrez

Customer Service Representative
Technical Services Corporation
Ph: (408) 435-3957
Fx: (408) 383-3711

SOURCE: Two problems, first the menu appears to be burned into the projection, the bulb has less than 100 hours. Second when black is supposed to be projected it projects blue?

You have a bad lcd, you would probabaly have some blue lite leakage also. Any lcd projector should not be left on the same image for long periods, it wears out the pixels that control the lite thru. The blue lcd is usually the culprit.

jasbo

• 2239 Answers
• Posted on Dec 08, 2009

SOURCE: my projector sony vpl cs6 projects yellow

reset the settings to factory default and change your cable. if that doesn't help, the polarizer filter on the blue lcd panel is fried due to excessive dust and heat. the optical engine will need to be replaced.

Testimonial: "Thanks very much for the help. "