Hayward h100id1 inlet hose shakes and loud banging noise

VERY low water flow!
Or... No water flow.
This heater as all heaters do, need to have sufficient water flow thru them, or else they Bang like this.
This then creates a problem, for future banging - due to lime up!
The minimal water flow gets so Overheated, that it turns to steam! The steam knocks and pushes the heater around, then the Minerals will precipitate out of the water and forcefully attach to the inside walls of the heat exchanger! Which will then drastically reduce the inner diameter of the exchanger making a much smaller passageway for water to travel thru! This is a major problem to remain this way. It will then need to be dismantled and de-limed to increase the holes once more, and allow a proper water flow.

is this heater is been install for above the ground pool it will be better either way to use a hard schedulle 40 pvc to prevent any checking in the hoses for future leak ,is the heater connections are correct in and out , mean from the return the filter go to inlet side the heater them the outlet side of the heter (HOT WATER) GO TO RETURNS of the pool ? also check if the pump got full prime not air,is the filter is clean? also check for any brocken parts inside the flowvalve control, after years low PH AND TA will destroy internal parts in heater include leaking heater exchangers.

Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com.

The Hayward H100 has a diverter plate welded into the header that helps direct some of the water flowing thru into the heat exchanger to heat the water. If the weld fails the diverter can interfere with that flow and cause overheating or poor flow thru the heater which in turn can lead to the problems you describe.

Remove the inlet side hose once you have blocked the flow of water from the pool and you should see the diverter in the inlet. If you can move it then it is broken and needs to be fixed back in place or the whole heat exchanger needs to be replaced.

If the diverter is not moving then your issue is likely an overall water flow one and the next place to look is the filter. Poor overall system flow may be enough to close the pressure switch telling the heater the pump is on but not enough to keep the water in the exchanger from getting too hot, again causing the symptoms you describe.

If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. You may also contact me thru our website at www.arrowpools.net. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!

John

I'm assuming that you have checked the water circuit and have bleeded it correctly and thoroughly - air bubbles will cause that when they go thru the heat exchanger.
The banging and shaking are caused by the blower from the burner- it's either:
1 - the motor is dislodged from its casing and the blades of the propeller fan are hitting the case walls - the casing will have to be opened and the motor refitted properly;
or
2 - the bearings of the shaft of the motor of the blower are damaged and the shaft oscillates - the entire blower will have to be replaced, here's a new one - number 2http://www.poolpartsonline.com/p-11-hayward-h100id1-h100idp1-above-ground-heater-parts.aspx
or
3 - the propeller is loose on the shaft - the blower will have to be dismantled and the propeller reattached .
Here is an exploded diagram to help you with the dismantling
http://www.poolpartsonline.com/popup.aspx?src=wolthuis.aspx%3fproductid%3d11%26size%3dlarge

Is it leaking? Has anything shaken loose inside? If you can get it to light the cause and fix for the banging and shaking is here: https://sites.google.com/site/haywardpoolheater/
Takes about 30 minute and you are done, but you have to figure out what else has gone wrong to stop it lighting

This is a by-pass problem ether internal or external. Internal is a project and you may want to get some one fimallar with your heater to help. If it is the external this is just a valve bridging the inlet and outlet pipes. Just close this down most of the way and force the water to go through the heater. with it open it gives the heater all the pressure it needs to start but you have water pushing down the inlet and outlet pipes so it can't go anywhere. The water inside the heater overheats and turns to steam giving you the banging and shakeing you have. Good luck.

Check your water flow and make sure your by-passes are set to send water threw the heater. That is to say shut off. The water in the heater is over heating and the clunking is the water turning to steam.

Hayward, gas heater... a metal clinking noise and the hoses doing a twitch every 5 to 20 seconds. my experience says it is that diverter shield has come loose...disconnect everything. unscrew the in and outlet connections.look into the hole, you will likely see a metal, plate with two half circles, one facing the inlet hole, and if you go around to the other side you will see the other end of the plate, with a half circle. this plate comes loose, whatever they use doesn't last.
one guy used a small hose clamp to keep it from sliding up and down the post, I used that two part plumbers putty, to "weld" it in place....homedepot, comes in a small cylinder, it's two part, you cut off a piece and mold it in your hands, worktime is only 3 min. cures in an hour.... no more clinking metal or twitching hoses.

The diverter inside your manifold is likely broken. You should stop using the heater immediately as the nocking is from water starting to boil in your heat exchanger. This can lead to a dangerous situation if a limit switch does not act in time.

Pull the inlet hose from the heater and you should see a plate just inside. If you can move it around it is broken and the fix is a new exchanger assembly.

You can fin these online and we sell them at www.arrowmotor.net

Stop using the heater immediately. You are boiling the water inside and this can lead to a dangerous situation if a limit switch fails to act in time.

You will likely find the diverter in the inlet side of the heater is broken. You are looking for a stainless steel plate in the water path. If you can move it by hand, it is broke. It is not replaceable and requires a new heat exchanger assembly to repair it.

Your part number is IDXHXA1101. We sell it as will most pool dealers. If you would like a quote, contact us at www.arrowmotor.net