After my mini fridge was left open over night, it doesnt get cold anymore....
I cleaned off the coils in the back and wiped off all dust on everything, but it still doesnt work. The freezer part builds alittle bit of ice only in a certain area, but the rest of the refrigerator is not cold at all. I even tried turning the dial all the way up but it still stays the same. Please i need help bad!
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: After my mini fridge was left open over night, it...
Being left open can let lots of moisture in that can freeze up the air circulation paths. First thing is to leave it off and unplugged for a couple days to melt any hidden ice build up from being open all night. Then start it up like normal and see if it works properly. If not then repost and we'll go from there.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Their are 2 possible things causing the ice build up
1) the condenser coils is very dusty and must be cleaned,to clean it remove the top grill and the smaller panel behind the grill,use a vacuum to clean all the dust from the coil
2) the evaperator coil in the refrig. behind the back wall has a small refregrant(freon) leak in it and the coil needs to be replaced
I hope thats its due to the upper coil needing to be vacuumed since its something you can do at no cost,but even if it doesnt fix the problem the coil needs to be cleaned to help both the freezer and fresh food section work more efficently if after cleaning the upper (condenser) coil and turning off the fridge to melt is away ice build up from (evaperator)coil,if the ice ball reoccurs the repair could be as much a $1,000.00 to replace the coil and recharge the refrigerant
There is a drain the back of the freezer that is frozen. Your trickle of water comes from the ice that melts off of the refrigeration coils during the defrost cycle. You need to turn off the freezer, then remove the rear cover from the back wall to expose the coils. With a hair dryer, melt all of the ice. You will find a drain under the coils. Melts all of the ice in this drain so water can get out of the freezer. When this drain is clear, you can put everything back together, and your freezer should work normally.
check and see if the door to the ice chute is closing all the way, moisture can get in there and cause excessive frost build up also check the location of your defrost thermostat behind the back panel in the freezer, it should be attached to the top of the evap coil. also check your water system and be sure that there are no leaks under the refer dripping into the pan while the unit is cycling for ice fill or dispenser line.
Cooling is poor
For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:
Evaporator coils Condenser Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
The defrost timer
The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)
The defrost heater
If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem
water line that's attached to the back of the refrigerator. Make sure
you have good water flow. If the flow is poor, repair, clean, or
replace the tubing or the shut-off valve that supplies the water.
The water-inlet valve. Replace it if it has failed.