Replacing a defective Terminal Block - Kenmore Dryer
Our Kenmore dryer (approx 6 yrs old) would continually shut off mid-cycle. After cleaning dismantling the motor compartment to vacume out all the lint I ran a load to test it. Everything was working great until I bumped the dryer. It shut off and wouldn't restart. I dismantled the wiring housing where the three prong is attached. It appears that the wiring wasn't tightened down to the "Terminal Block". I can only tighten the bolts to a certain point. There is alot of play underneath especially on right wire (which incidentally is stripped).
1) Is this an electrical hazard for my family? If it's connected and randomly loses power.
2) Is there a terminal block that would allow me to more securely tighten the wiring harness? Where can I order one of these?
Thanks!
Kenmore Dryer Model #60902990
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67 Answers
Re:
If there are any lose wires connected to the dryer terminal block and there is any sign of current draw like black around it or if it just looks bad in general then yes it does pose a threat of a fire hazard or electrical hazard like shocking you when u touch the frame. There is a terminal block you can buy for it visit any part place with the model number and they can help you out hope this helps
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Clean the entire exhaust duct from the back of the machine all the way out of the house, if the codes don't change. Call a service tech... CLL SRV = call for service
are u saying it shuts down or just stops heating? if it shuts down u may have bad motor windings and or brushes and motor is burning out if its stops heating that is usually due to bad moister sensor, cycling thermostat ( which would not usually shut appliance off though), short in heating element, defective hi limit thermostat etc and of course u already said u cleaned lint and ducts? including the blower? if its blocked with lint u have a shut off issue
ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:
Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)
Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective.
Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,
Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.
Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating
Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)
Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective.
Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,
Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.
Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective.
Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,
Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.
Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
Hello there and thank you for choosing fixya If your dryer doesn't work at all, it could be because of problems with: Power from the houseCheck
to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? If
you plug something else into the outlet, does it work? If not, check
for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.Door switchIf
the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer
won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is
inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to
raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. To
determine if the door switch has failed, watch the part testing video at the bottom of this page.
Thermal fuseOn
many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows
if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back
cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in
black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.
If the
fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer
either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to
inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the
dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.) To
determine if the thermal fuse has blown out, watch the part testing video at the bottom of this page.
WiringOften
the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the
connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to
replace the power cord and the terminal block that it is attached too
It doesn't work at allIf your dryer doesn't work at all, it could be because of problems with:Power from the houseDoor switchThermal fuseWiringPower from the houseCheck to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? If you plug something else into the outlet, does it work? If not, check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.Door switchIf the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Thermal fuseOn many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.
If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.) WiringOften the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
1. No power to the dryer Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.
2. Heating element A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.
3. Thermal fuse Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.
try replacing the power cord, and make sure that you have a "dedicated" power sorce for the plug. The system board will shut the dryer down if a power supply issue is detected. This feature is to prevent fire hazards. Make sure your electric box is grounded and up to code.
sounds like you have a overload switch kicking out or its a thermofuse, or timer something is telling your machine its too hot or a thermofuse or some heat sensor....
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