I determined the leaks are coming from the shell around the drum, solution tighten bolts or replace the gasket. In order to tighten bolts I need to have access to front of the washer, problem - how to you remove the front panels. I found no way to reach the bolts with the back panel off.
I read on-line very difficult to remove and replace gasket (especially lining up the boot around drum/door? is this true?
Any help or suggestions will be appreciated
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Emvat. It's not that difficult. You just need to take your time and observe. First remove the top by removing the 3 screws in back, the top will slide off toward the back. Remove the dispenser drawer. There will be 2 torq screws in front behind the disp. drawer, remove them. The control panel is snapped in. If you grab it from the top and pull up the panel will release from the tabs and pull out. Be careful here, the ribbon cable will still be attached. Remove it from the main board and set the panel aside. Next you need to remove the boot wire on the door. It's spring loaded. Take a small screw drive and insert it under the wire and pull out. Once started it will come off easy. Next is the removal of the door latch assy.. There will be 3 torq screws holding it in. Remove the screws and with boot off the door panel reach in and pull it off the panel. Remove the bottom panel, 3 screws. Now the whole front panel and door assy will come off with the removal of the 4 screws holding it. The top will slide under the metal bracket when replacing it. Now you are looking at the whole boot or bellow. This is held on by a large clamp. Before removing it observe the positon of the lock nut. If you take your time and mark all the screws you removed, stay organized it won't be bad. The boot is held on to the fill hose with a button type connection. Seperate the ring and the hose will come off. The hardest part of this whole deal is getting the outside boot wire back on. You will need a third hand to hold the wire in place while stretching it back on. That pretty much covers it. I don't think I missed anything. If so, e-mail me at [email protected], I'll see if I can walk you through it. Catriver...post back.
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Try checking to see if you got the gaskets that around the plastic things in correctly.Often a part is in upside down or in the wrong order (IE bolt washer metal washer instead of bolt metal washer washer)You can make sure that the bolts are tight enough to compress the gasket but do not tighten them to much, you will crack the toilet.
Any leak can be easily identified only if you can take a closer look with a good observation lamp.
So this can be from a faulty hose connector, a faulty hose, faulty drain pump/valve, drum gaskets- door gaskets or the inlet valve.
Once this is confirmed you can replace the gaskets or tighten the hose or clean the drain valve/pump.
If you've not done this before, expect to spend a lot of time. I've replaced these without disassembling the washer's front, but it's an arm-twisting experience to put the inner part of the gasket on, and to attach and tighten the clamp holding it. Haven't tried removing the front panel, if you can, do it - the job becomes much easier.
PS Check shocks and if the washer is leveled enough, door gaskets tear from excessive loads and excessive vibration.
It's not difficult to line up the boot around the door. The difficult part is taking out the tub (basket and plastic shell). Everything needs to be disconnected, and removed from the back, as well the tub is very heavy and best to do as a two person job.
If your washer is only 5 years old, it's kind of a 50/50. The cost (with labour) to fix the leak would come to approx $450 cdn.
thats the main tub seal, youll need to remove the tub completly from the machine, split it and then reassemble after installing the new gasket and hope you didnt damage anything in theprocees. big bucks for the repair i bet, iim in NYC and id bet problalby 325-425, alott of labor involved!
If I remember correctly, you need to remove the drum to get at the bolt that you are talking about. There is a rubber washer that provides the seal. The locking collar on the hub is Left hand thread. If you work at it you can get it loose.
Okay, to check for your source of a leak, start by removing the 2 screws on the lower front panel of the machine. This will let you see inside. As you are running the washer, watch where the water is coming from. If from the front, you may have a hole in your boot (the black rubber up front) If so, you may need to replace the boot (the part comes with step by step instructions). If coming from the middle, your tub seal may be going bad. A quick fix is tighten the 12 or 14 bolts that go all of the way around your tub. This will only be a temporary measure. The tub will have to be taken apart and the seal replaced. (this is a 1 1/2 hour - 2 hour procedure for 2 technicians) If it leaking from the rear, you may have a bad tub bearing. You can remove the back panel to be certain, but usually a bad bearing will be accompanied by a roaring noise durring the spin cycle. As for the dryer leaving brown marks? Usually the front seal has been dammaged. Run your finger around the front of the drum (where it meets the front panel) the gap should be about the same all of the way around. If it is not, you may need a new front seal. (this is much cheaper and less time consuming on the dryer compared to a seal on the washer)