Not Powering up

After some bad T-storms out this way my receiver wouldn't power up..even though I had it surge protected w/ the other home theater stuff. Awesome fix..I tried it and after a few tries I got it working using the method above. You just saved me $200! Thanks! Brian J / Rockford Illinois

Take cover off . look for the power supply,just above that to the left is a little black box,its where the clicking is coming from.take the cover of the black box. if you tri to turn it on it will click and spark but want stay together.so take screwdriver and push the end, in untill it stays, it may take a minut.when it does it will power up. i have the same unit with the same problem and got it to work like this. now it works fine.i did this just to what would happen,nothing to lose.

I was reluctant to fuse the relay contacts together. This problem is intermittent with my unit and it is a pain to pull out of my cabinet to press the contacts together.
I came up with a simple solution. I had some very small jumper leads in my tool kit so I cut the aligator clips from one end. I threaded the leads through the air holes on the bottom of the unit and up to the relay. Next I soldered one lead to each side of the relay contacts and put the case back on and returned the unit to my cabinet.
I have two tiny aligator clips hanging under the front of the unit, both protected in a protective sheath. When my unit doesn't power up I simply connect the two clips together and I am back in business. I do not leave the clips together because once the unit is up and running it seems to stay on, most of the time. When it doesn't stay on I leave the clips connected, but I have to disconnect the clips after use so that I can shut the power down.

Now my unit is starting to pop and send static through one speaker. I will have to search for that fix.

The chosen solution worked for me as well! I believe, anyways. I actually don't have the unit hooked up anymore as I brought it home from school to buy a replacement for it (which I already bought earlier tonight).

Anyways, I decided to look up reviews for the old av-d57 I've had forever to see if it has good reviews or not (to be honest I never got much use out of it until these past few months, but it hasn't been powering on properly).

Long story short, came across this link and realized it was the issue I was having. Took the unit case off (easy, just take out screws). I found the black box with ease after reading the description. However, I have no idea how that box lid is supposed to come off. Someone who knows should post. Where is this 'tab' that you push on? Perhaps my tab was just not going to move at all...I pushed and push with a screw driver, nothing. Eventually I had done enough pushing that the black plastic strip behind the tab (what you need to get over the tab) simply broke off in a few pieces and was pretty much gone. Since I had a replacement bought, I was a little rougher than I wanted to be. After some hard pulling, off came the cap. From the broken plastic on the cap, it seems there is one tab on top and one on bottom. I couldn't get at the bottom without taking the board out, and even then there is a blue object in the way. So, I have no idea how it should come off, but with some careful pushing and chipping away at the plastic it WILL come off.

I pushed the two metal brackets closer, then tried. Didn't work. Tried to push them closer (they seemed close to me to start with), knocked off the black plastic connected to right bracket. Tried to put it back in place, knocked off the metal that the black plastic was connected to on the other side. No fears, they go back in place easily with some tweezers and careful handling...just slip the metal thing back under the metal tab and stick the black plastic wheel thing in the small holes where it came out of (one on right bracket, one on silver metal thing).

After all this, it worked. So there is certainly something in this technique. I don't know too much about this level of detail, but when you power it on the two brackets snap together. When you power off, they pull apart. This moves that little silver thing on the black wheel and somehow the unit turns on and off.

Now, if you turn OFF the ECO friendly mode, they seem to stay snapped together. They do not come apart anymore when you power off the unit. Maybe this is one way to avoid this issue of them not being close enough? If you get it powered on, try turning on the eco friendly mode. The clock will always show, and the red dot will not. Do note that I do not think this is a perfect cure, as I used to do this anyways as I wanted the clock, and eventually it would jump back into eco friendly mode. Either a power outage, or maybe the unit just didn't get used often enough and somehow the two brackets came apart. I don't know.

Anyways, the posted solution works, but I warn you - the black box was not made to come off easily and will be very stubborn, especially since these units are older now.

Can someone tell how to remove the little black box from the board?

This fix worked for me as well. Used a slightly different method to hold the contacts together. I cut a piece from a plastic cable clamp to just fit inside the relay box and hold the metal tab open thus forcing the contacts together. Slipped the cover back on the relay with a snug fit. I can set the clock and turn off the ECO Mode by the manual and have the clock display when unit turned off. My unit is the AV-S17.

This is great. follow these instructions and you will succeed! i was weary but, in 5 min i saved $300

I loved the solution to this problem. It worked great for me. I get loud static noise after about an hour of use. Any ideas for that?

Awesome great fix, i actually placed a small tye wrap around it to prevent it from spreading again

He is right, try that. Mine just clicked and cliked, then he was right the "sparkplugs" were too far apart. Thank you =D

Hi~ This is a great solution & kinda fixed mine. the issue is the contacts don't want to stay together. it'll turn on fine, but within 30 seconds, it blips off. BrianJJ said he tied it - can you tell me? or, can i just solder the two contacts together and forget it? it also blips off wheni turn the dial to digital. I'm going to replace all the speaker wire but looking for suggestions. thanks much & this is a great site! ps