I have replaced the primary switch, secondary switch, and the monitor switch. I input the time I want and press start and it blows the fuse? I wish I can further diagnose but I dont have any specs for the other component?
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If it stops when you open the door, then you probably have a bad power relay or control board. If one of the primary or secondary switches is stuck in a closed position, then the short/monitor switch should cause the fuse to blow.
Sounds like a bad switch should have three primary, secondary, and monitor switch after 5 years change all 3 they are not the same primary and secondary are NO ( normally open ) and the monitor NC ( normally closed ) unit will not come on the fuse on the filter board is blow this usually shorts out the filter board change the switches first and replace fuse may not have to replace filter board hopes this helps.
There are three to four switches that monitor that microwave. If any of them are bad it won't work. More then likely it's the monitor switch. There's a primary and a secondary switch. Take the cover off and look for the tech sheet it will show you which ones they are. They are around the door latch area...good luck.
The Interlock Monitor Switch is an added safety check on the Primary and Secondary Interlock Switches. If the Primary and Secondary Interlock Switches allow the oven to operate with the door open, the Monitor Switch will blow the fuse.
You can get more information about adjuting the interlock switch from this link
I've had this problem twice with our microwave. The hint to where the problem lies is that the breaker blows when you open the door at times. Inside the microwave are three microswitches; primary and secondary interlock micro switches and an Interlock Monitor switch. The switches are supposed to shut down the microwave if it is running and the door is opened. But, I've found the upper primary switch can stick internal at times and when the door is opened the stuck switch will, because of the way it is wired as a safety switch, cause either the fuse or possibly the main circuit breaker for the oven to pop. The reason the stuck switch blows the breaker or fuse is when the door is opened the interlock switch will cause the neutral wire from the AC power to be applied to the Upper Primary Interlock switch which normally should be open when the door is opened, but if the switch is intermittent or the contacts weld themselves shut the neutral line is connected direct to the "hot" side of the power line through the fuse and thermostat. The first time my microwave failed the switch had melted the contacts together inside the switch and the second time the switch became intermittent and would blow the breaker to the over ever so often. I suspected the switch the second time this happened and utilizing an ohm meter I checked the switch several times by opening and closing the door and once in a while it would remain closed instead of opening when the door was opened. Of course while trouble shooting the power cord to the microwave must be disconnected and use all safety precautions when working around the high voltage areas inside the microwave. I wrote Jenn-Air about the bad switch and the way it is wired into the circuit, but never received any acknowledgement. I suspect these microswitches are under rated for the amount of current that passes through the switch, thus they overheat and eventually arc the contacts together. I hope this helps explain the intermittent problem and could explain many of the intermittent blown fuse problems I see in these internet help sessions
You have a short in the system. removeing the fuse was not a good thing to do. The fuse in a microwave helps keep the system from an overload which can and I have seen this blow-up. The micro pump inside might have a dead short it,
Waleed, Since the microwave is going through all its motions we can feel safe that the oven and magnetron thermostats are ok. If they were bad you would not have a display. Just inside the control panel to the left, you have 3 switches which the door activates. A primary (top switch) a secondary (bottom switch) and a monitor switch (middle). If the primary or secondary switch is not closing when the door is shut, you high voltage side will not activate, therefore no heat. If the monitor switch failed or found either the primary or secondary switch closed with the door open, it would blow the main fuse and the oven would be dead. Therefore Im leaning on either the primary or secondary switch not operating correctly. When checking these switches, unplug and discharge the capacitor. This is high voltage. Good luck