Spring w/2 tiny rollers loose

I'm guessing that you are referring to the wheel guide on the floating panel. You may have to remove the door completely in order to re-install it. At the pivot points (upper & lower) next to the jam; the upper one may or may not be spring loaded, the bottom one is threaded usually with a beveled head with teeth on it. You'll need a flat-bar or someone to lift up on the door as you thread the pivot bolt back into the door, allowing enough play to pop it off of the seat plate. The bi-fold will have to be open(the panels flat across). Tilt the bottom of the doors out, this will allow you to re-set both the upper pivot in its bracket and the guide roller on the floating panel in the track at the same time. Re-position the doors in the opening with the lower pivot over its bracket and re-adjust(thread down) the lower pivot until it holds the door up in the track. (Take care as to the position of the lower pivot in its bracket as it also adjusts the clearance for the door to swing/pivot next to the jam!!) {The upper pivot bracket(in the track) can also be adjusted for closeness to the jam}. It is important that these pivot points be plum(straight up& dn) They can cause the bi-fold to tilt; or cause the roller guide on the forward door to either move up, or dip down as it travels out to the open position.

I have a Sole E 25 it worked fine for several years then the rollers kept coming off the t outside of the right track. I removed the track and the wheels and the tee shaped end with the brass bushings and switched them to the opposite side that never comes off. After switching the parts from side to side the right still came off the outside and the left stayed on. Since the different parts did not make any difference i knew buying new parts would not do any good. I saw that Sole made a replacement track for their single wheel machines that had a side on it to keep the roller from coming. They do not make a replacement for the double track so I make my own. I used a 1/2 thick by 2 ft. long by 4 in. high piece of white plastic I had laying around to use as a guide to keep the wheels on the track. I also used a 1/4 in. by 2ft. long by 1 5/8 wide piece of plywood to space it away so the rollers would clear the white plastic. I drilled 3 holes through the plastic and plywood them marked the black round steel tubes that support the aluminum tracks that the wheels ride on. Make sure and drill the steel a little smaller than the sheet metal screws so they will hold. I used 3- 1 1/4 sheet metal screws to anchor the plastic and plywood to the eliptical. I used plastic because it would be quieter and less friction than steel or plywood. I works great again.

They are caused by a component in the toner cartridge.

Originally the cleaning roller was a plain roller, but at some time the 'bean counters' decided they could save a tiny bit of money on each cartridge by using a spiral foam roller instead. The foam also seems to be of a different type, and doesn't age well.

There are two solutions.

1. Replace the cartridge that is producing the coloured squiggle/


2, dismantle an OLD cartridge and if it has a plain (non-spiral) foam roller, swap that (along with it's supports - the new type are a different size).

Either of the above will cure the problem, but a new replacement cartridge may also show the problem in time, as it WILL have the spiral cleaning roller.

The front roller (usually a metal cylinder) is spring loaded. The rear roller (usually a rubber cylinder) is fixed and is driven by a belt from the motor. You need to push the front roller against a fixed object (like a benchtop) pretty hard to compress the spring about 1/2 inch. It should "catch" in the compressed position. Belt will now be loose and easy to reeplace. Then, to "un-catch" it, on most models, just stick a screwdriver behind the front roller bracket and pry it forward. It should pop right back into place. Good luck.

May have bent door hinges,, need to check all alignment of door, hinges and latches...

IT sounds like you have a roller that is broken or the drum is off track...when a roller breaks or the support bracket that the roller is attached to has a screw loose and has shifted position and I surmise based on your description that the front left roller is affected or the drum is off track up toward the front of the dryer...that would make the front of the drum drop creating the situation you described. The only way to get to this problem depending on the brand...is to remove the top of the dryer...or the back of the dryer...and remove the drum...to access the rollers.....be careful to observe closely how the belt is attached to the spring loaded arm (tensioner) that keeps the belt tight...and replace it the way it came out. Any problems get back to me and I can walk anyone with good mechanical skills through exactly what to do.

Hope this helps....please rate me...the Fang

there are three (3) rollers
1 at the bottom
1 on the body
1 at the top this is the one giving you problems you will find that the roller is missing and or broken you can pick one up at the wreckers

hi Problems with the dish racks usually occur because the racks have been jammed back into the tub housing after they're fully loaded. Careless handling can exert enough force to crack or break the roller wheels or throw the racks off the tracks. The solution is easy: Stop jamming the racks. 
The repair is easy, too. Remove the racks by pulling out the tiny metal pins that hold them in the tracks. Or simply lift up on the racks and pull them out of the tracks. Then reinstall the racks on the tracks so that they roll smoothly. If the rollers are cracked or broken, replace them with new ones of the same type. The rollers may be friction-fit to their hubs. Pull them off for replacement. Or, if they are held by tiny spring clips, pull the clips out with pliers, or pry them out with the tip of a screwdriver. If you can't pull the rollers off for replacement, remove and replace the entire rack.

hi Problems with the dish racks usually occur because the racks have been jammed back into the tub housing after they're fully loaded. Careless handling can exert enough force to crack or break the roller wheels or throw the racks off the tracks. The solution is easy: Stop jamming the racks. 
The repair is easy, too. Remove the racks by pulling out the tiny metal pins that hold them in the tracks. Or simply lift up on the racks and pull them out of the tracks. Then reinstall the racks on the tracks so that they roll smoothly. If the rollers are cracked or broken, replace them with new ones of the same type. The rollers may be friction-fit to their hubs. Pull them off for replacement. Or, if they are held by tiny spring clips, pull the clips out with pliers, or pry them out with the tip of a screwdriver. If you can't pull the rollers off for replacement, remove and replace the entire rack.
A noisy wash cycle or water that won't drain are problems that, for the most part, can be handled yourself. We'll discuss how you can pinpoint these water-related problems in the next section.
tha...........

the drum has either worn out its felt(front), a fabric bearing, or the roller(rear) bearings, or both, and dropped enough to make a gap. new rollers are3 about $15 /pair, felts between $13 & $90 depending on model.
Generic replacement is simple, and really while you got it apart, do both, the strain of twisting off axis will make the remaining good end fail shortly
The generic steps may not be correct for the actual dryer model.

Felt seal
for most dryers,
Go buy HiTemperature silicone adhesive (tube)
tools required couple pairs locking pliers/visegrips screwdrivers

Unplug dryer
remove the front cover, either

• couple screws at the bottom and spring clips to pop off with a screw driver OR
• couple of spring clips to hold the top lid on, then screws top and bottom of both sides
  
  examine the case to find the exact mounting

unclip cables from door switch
set front panel aside
unhook drive belt from tensioner pulley
pull drum forward and out

remove old felt
scrape off old adhesive
put adhesive per instructions (some 2 surfaces some 1) on drum/felt
clip felt in place on drum with visegrip at 1 point
stretch felt around drum, gluing and clipping in place with vicegrips as you go
allow glue to set

reassemble in reverse order


Roller bearings
for most dryers,
tools required needle pliers/visegrips screwdrivers

Unplug dryer
remove the front cover, either

• couple screws at the bottom and spring clips to pop off with a screw driver OR
• couple of spring clips to hold the top lid on, then screws top and bottom of both sides
  
  examine the case to find the exact mounting

unclip cables from door switch
set front panel aside
unhook drive belt from tensioner pulley
pull drum forward and out

remove old rollers:

• pry triangular circlip from axle post
• discard circlip
• remove and discard roller
• install new roller
• install new circlip
  ALWAYS replace rollers in pairs
  
  reassemble in reverse order

wow took longer to type than it actually takes to do it