Need a wiring diagram for the burner switch for model c-206b-c
I had a repair person who said they were authorized, replace a defective switch for the right front burner. When he did it the fan now comes on when the burner is one - never did this before! Also when two burners are on and the fan is switched on the fusebreaker trips - something is not wired properly - the repairman is no where to be found! Please help if you can? Need the wiring diagram - Jennair is of no help as they say the unit is too old and they have no info on file. The unit is about 16 years old.
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The problem is going to be that the switch that turns on the spark for that front burner is defective and that switch needs to be replaced. To replace the switch on that cooktop which splis over the gas valve for that burner is remove all knobs and remove the face plate over all the burner valves, the switch slides off of the burner valve and the wires to it just slip onto the new switch,the part number for that switch is Y704512 it could be purchased at your local appliance partstore or online at; apdepot.com partselect.com apwagner.com repairclinic.com applinacepartspros.com
before attempting any repair on the cooktop be sure to disconnect power and turn off gas supply
The switch for the right front burner is defective and needs to be replaced,its bad as far as internally when turned on no matter what its set it the interal contact is stuck on only high so their is no setting it will work on except high. By replacing the switch it will work on the various settings and not just high.
Interesting, I'm looking for a solution to a similar issue. Our new (7 month old) 30'' Wolf Range has this issue. When both front burners are light, the back burner's electronic starter begins to click, but only when you put a pan on the front left burner. I believe the iron/steel in the pan is causing a magnetic field thats starting the rear burner to go off.. just don't know.. will report back after the repair person comes.
Hello- The extra low simmer burners are indeed troublesome. Sometimes you do have to drill-off the burners, sometimes all of them. This is can be very time consuming depending on if you have the right tools. The issue is you have to get the top off the unit in order to access the spark module and switches that come with the Potentiometer kit (the parts they will need to replace). As well, they will have to replace the Venturi Tubes that were drilled off and the orifice holders as well because the venturi screws into this. I would get a parts cost and labor estimate and consider also the cost of installing a new cooktop. I have done many of these, it's the same on their ranges, and it can take a couple of hours. I will say that I have never needed another persons help to do the repair. Hope this helps, best regards.
all burner igniters work at the same time - you may have a faulty electronic spark unit. change the spark unit. go to repair clinic dot come for the unit. also would be wise to check the ingniter start switch on the gas burner control knob
Most likely the electrode for the right burner is defective. As well as the switch may also be defective (is shorted because of pressing hard on it trying to make it work!!). Change the electrode and igniter switch of the right front burner.
The left side is set for your grill. There is apparently a switch under the left side top / front of the cooktop. The aeration tray has a prong on one end that fits into a hole in the front end of the burner basin and activates the switch which stops the fan from coming on when using the burners and allows the fan to run when using the grill. Try switching sides with the aeration trays as one might make better contact than the other.
My Jenn-Air had the same problem. When you install the drip pan for the burner module, there is a "finger" on the pan that is inserted into a hole in the front of the stove. If you look into that hole, you will see a lever switch. The finger on the drip pan on the burner module is supposed to push that lever switch down and turn the fan off, but over time the lever gets pushed down further and ultimately it does not get activated when the drip pan is installed.
You can either replace the lever switch, or you can try to pull it back into place and tighten the two small screws that hold it in place. Actually, I chose a third option and attached a small, flat spring to the finger on the drip pan.