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Posted on Nov 25, 2008

Dayton 4lx51; pilot glows, intermitent pilot flame, either way the burners will not ignite, then fan turns on and blows cold air. green light on top of valve comes on solid, then flashes. Graingers tech line said to replace valve, i did, but same problem.

  • wjt275 Dec 06, 2008

    Joe,
    I have a Dayton 3E406 gas heater in my garage. The fan won't come on. I thought it was the fan burned out since some balloons drifted into it and the strings wrapped around the shaft (and also blocked the airflow somewhat). I bought a replacement motor but when I took the old motor out and stuck the wires in an outlet, it runs fine. There are some strange electrical thingys in the wiring box. Could they be the problem?
    Note-- the first time I stuck the wires in an outlet it blew the fuse, so i reversed the wires and it ran.

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  • Posted on Nov 30, 2008
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Change the thermocouple. grainger has never been a good place to ask about a problem. they are parts guys and not technicans

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Napoleon Fireplace propane Pilot won't light main burner even though gas flows in?

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No flame

Several steps here to check...
turn power off unit and back on
set thermostat to heat
watch for pilot to ignite..igniter should glow orange or cherry red or spark if its a spark type ignitor
Did you see a pilot light ignite?

If not you probably have a bad igniter.

If pilot lit....in a little bit you hear a click of the gas valve opening..then the main burners will ignite

If you see the pilot and the main burner lights but goes out in a few minutes or immediately you may have an issue of the "high limit" switch tripping.

Is the blower fan turning that blows air out of your vents?
are all your vents open in your house? too many times i see homes with almost all vents shut.
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Turn up t-stat, circ fan runs, hot surface igniter glows burner lights blows warm for a short time and then goes cold, flashes 1 flash, ignition problem, no flame when acting up. model# DGAA070BDTB.

The thermocouple lets the control know the flame is burning, and if it doesn't sense flame it shuts off just what you describe. Sounds as though you need to replace the thermocouple.
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Hi i hope you can help. I have a high effeciency furnace and the burners keep turning off.

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).
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Red light blinking continuosly meanig gas valve relay short how can I fix myself - furnance only blows cold air

You will need to check for 24 volts AC to the gas valve after the igniter starts sparking or glowing. If you have it but it does not open, bad gas valve and you will need to replace it. If you are not getting 24 volts after it starts glowing or sparking, you have a bad board.

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).
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Turn heat on, I hear it ignite and furnace runs and runs fine then usually there is a slight delay and blower turns on and blows heat, but now it does not, I put my hand up to a nearby vent to no heat and...

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).
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My heater blows cold air. any ideas?

Your unit has a diagnostic light on the circuit board. You need to look thru a small viewing port to see it. Once you count the number of b links, remove the lower panel and look at the wiring diagram for an error code chart. Then read the following to give you some ideas what to do.

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).
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Furnace heats for a while then quits and blows cold air

Not much to go on like a make or model number so this will have to do.

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).
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If in fact you have the above listed furnace, you do not have a pilot but electronic ignition. You will need to remove the front cover on the furnace, tape down the door safety switch and then have someone help you by turning up your thermostat to a very high setting. Watch and listen inside the furnace. There should be some blinking going on at the control board followed by a small blower fan starting up. Then after 10-15 seconds there should be a click followed by an orange glow viewed thru the viewing window to the burner section. In a few seconds the gas valve should click and the burners will ignite. There is a safety switch that will sense flame and then keep the gas going to the burners. If it does not sense it, it will shut it off within 10 seconds. If all is well so far, your blower will turn on in about 90 seconds after flame. There is a diagnostic code chart on the back side of the access door if you get an error code (blinking) on the control board.

Always check little things like air filter, condensate drain and broken or loose wires.
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