Ac outside unit comes on...inside blower starts up and blows for about 2 mins, then blower shuts off. outside unit continues to run until we manually turn it off at the thermostat. after it sits for a few mins (15) or so you can set it back to start and everything comes on like it is supposed to and 2 mins later the same problem occurs, the inside blower shuts down, the thermostat lite is still on calling for cooling and the compressor is still running. Any ideas? Thanks We are right now getting ready to manually feel how hot the moter is when it shuts off in case it is the thermal limit that is shutting it down.
My central AC unit decided to stop on the hottest day of the year. It would start and run normally for a few minutes and then the blower would shut off. After checking the breakers, thermostat and overflow shut off (did not have one) I saw something about a blower motor capacitor. This was easy to get to and replace and my last hope before waiting for someone to come fix it. The capacitor cost $4.04 with tax and had my AC working again. Needless to say I was beyond happy. I hope this can help others with a similar problem.
SOURCE: RV air conditioner. Compressor running, fan stops before cool
The fan motor is getting hot and going off on the internal overload in the motor.
This is caused by either a low voltage, a bad capacitor, or tight or dry bearings in the motor.
To check the bearings turn the power off to the unit, then spin the fan blade if it spins freely then the bearings are ok.
To check the capacitor you will need some kind of tester or you can buy a capacitor and replace it, that's what a lot of people do. They usually don't cost very much.
To check the voltage you will need a voltmeter and measure the volts at the unit.
SOURCE: Inside blower not starting every time
This should have a time delay sequencer for the blower in the a/c mode. These are bad about being interminent in the a/c mode and also in fan. I have had some that would freeze up and I would get there and the fan be running. Thaw out and check and everything be ok. Got to cycling the fan on and off and sooner or later it would get where fan didn't come on. After replacement the customer didn't have anymore problem. Check the rely, looks like a heat sequencer but mounted on plate to blower compartment.
SOURCE: Amana 1 ton Residential AC / Outside unit comes on for a sec
open the service panel to check for control voltage of 24volts when tstat calling, The contactor should be pulled in, if contactor is down,and contacts appear to be clean, and the unit is still not running, it is a bad compressor. to test this unplug the black wire from the compressoror at contactor,w/ power off! Turn on power if fan works normally it's a bad compressor. However if you see a swollen split cap(5 wires to a soup can looking w/ the terminal C,F,and Comp), switch it first and start at square one.
You also need to consider the high pressure switch if its cycling on off on off.
SOURCE: no cooling after power out, indicator lights pattern not in manual
The Mitsubishi units have to be reset by turning off the indoor units by switching the remote or thermostat to off. Then turn off the breaker to the outside unit(s). After 30 seconds,turn on the breaker and then you can turn on the remote for cool. If no lights come on on the inside units, most likely you have blown a fuse soldered on the main PC board. At this point, call your technician. A goos tech will be able to wire in an in-line fuse holder so if it should happen again, you can easily replace the fuse. If you do see a light or two come on at the indoor unit but the outdoor unit does not start after 3 or 4 minutes, sounds like you will need to call a technician. Most likely you have a blown fuse on the main PC board of the outside unit. It is not an easy one to replace. Good Luck!
SOURCE: DuoTherm compressor starts but will not continue to run
check condenser fan if running. it will make compressor comes on and off if broken
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thru trial and error we determined our problem. I will tell here for others use what we did and the outcome.
Furnace problem when using AC
Ac was turned on....compressor outside and blower inside came on as normal....2-3 mins late, with thermostat still calling for cooling, inside blower shut off. We imme. shut off AC to protect from freezeup.
We figured: 1st that motor had over heated tripping the thermal protection. We turned on heat and it ran like normal til heat satisfied. OK, no thermal tripped.
2nd we thought perhaps a relay had gone bad or the high speed of the 3 speed motor had gone bad.
We looked at the electrical schematic for the old board and found the wiring for the (cool black wire) high speed, the (heat red wire) low speed, and two more plugs, one holding a blue wire that said (med speed) and one with no wire.
There was an addendum on the blue wire that said you could use a yellow wire for med high and an orange wire for med lo. There were no wires this color on the old board
old board was 1 hi cool black wire
2 lo speed heat red wire
3 med hi blue wire
4 med lo no wire
new board was 1 black we assumed high speed for cool as color matched old board
2 yellow we assumed med hi speed, per addendum for blue wire old bd
3 red we assumed lo speed for heat as color matched old board
4 orange we assumed med lo speed, per addendum for blue wire old bd
Now we have the missing colored wires from the old board to use.
So we thought each wire might have it own relay and if the high speed cooling relay was tripping, the other wires relays should be fine.
So we then unplugged the high speed black wire going to the motor from the board and plugged the red wire (lo speed) for heat to the circuit board in place of the black (hi speed) wire.
We then turned power back on to AC and furnace. Set the thermostat to call for AC and everything came on and worked fine all the way thru to thermostat shutting it down when temperature satisfied.
We found that lo speed red wire was too low a speed to give much flow to the heavy cooled air, so we put the red wire for lo speed heat back where it belonged.
We then took the yellow wire assumed to be med-hi speed, per the old boards addendum, and connected it to the high speed cool (black) plug on the circuit board and redid our test of the functioning of the AC.
The AC and blower came on together and ran til thermostat shut everything down on temperature satisfaction.
Our AC is working......and we deduce that the problem is not a relay, because the relay did not trip and shut the blower down prematurely after the wire change told the blower motor to use a different speed than high.
We have decided that its a blower motor failure in the high speed circuitry of its 3 speed motor, as the other speeds work with no blower shutdowns. Need to replace motor or let it run at medium speed. Which to be determined.
hope this helps someone else in diagnosing a problem
Furnace problem when using ACAc was turned on....compressor outside and blower insidecame on as normal....2-3 mins late, with thermostat still calling forcooling, inside blower shut off. We imme. shut off AC to protect fromfreezeup.We figured: 1st that motor had over heated tripping thethermal protection. We turned on heatand it ran like normal til heat satisfied. OK, no thermal tripped.2nd we thought perhaps a relay had gone bad or the highspeed of the 3 speed motor had gone bad.We looked at the electrical schematic for the old board andfound the wiring for the (cool black wire) high speed, the (heat red wire) lowspeed, and two more plugs, one holding a blue wire that said (med speed) andone with no wire. There was an addendum on the blue wire that said you coulduse a yellow wire for med high and an orange wire for med lo. There were no wires this color on the oldboardold board was 1 hi cool black wire 2 lo speed heat red wire 3 med hi blue wire 4 med lo no wirenew board was 1 black we assumed high speed for cool ascolor matched old board 2 yellow we assumed med hi speed,per addendum for blue wire old bd 3 red we assumed lo speed for heat as color matched old board 4 orange we assumed med lo speed,per addendum for blue wire old bdNow we have the missing colored wires from the old board touse.So we thought each wire might have it own relay and if thehigh speed cooling relay was tripping, the other wires relays should befine. So we then unplugged the high speed black wire going to themotor from the board and plugged the red wire (lo speed) for heat to thecircuit board in place of the black (hi speed) wire. We then turned power back on to AC and furnace. Set the thermostat to call for AC andeverything came on and worked fine all the way thru to thermostat shutting itdown when temperature satisfied.We found that lo speed red wire was too low a speed to givemuch flow to the heavy cooled air, so we put the red wire for lo speed heatback where it belonged.We then took the yellow wire assumed to be med-hi speed, perthe old boards addendum, and connected it to the high speed cool (black) plugon the circuit board and redid our test of the functioning of the AC. The AC and blower came on together and ran til thermostatshut everything down on temperature satisfaction.Our AC is working......and we deduce that the problem is nota relay, because the relay did not trip and shut the blower down prematurelyafter the wire change told the blower motor to use a different speed than high.We have decided that its ablower motor failure in the high speed circuitry of its 3 speed motor, as theother speeds work with no blower shutdowns. Need to replace motor or let it run at medium speed. Which to be determined.
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