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Anonymous Posted on May 20, 2012

Ac unit runs, inside blower shuts off after 2 mins, compressor continues to run, t-stat still calling for cool

Ac outside unit comes on...inside blower starts up and blows for about 2 mins, then blower shuts off. outside unit continues to run until we manually turn it off at the thermostat. after it sits for a few mins (15) or so you can set it back to start and everything comes on like it is supposed to and 2 mins later the same problem occurs, the inside blower shuts down, the thermostat lite is still on calling for cooling and the compressor is still running. Any ideas? Thanks We are right now getting ready to manually feel how hot the moter is when it shuts off in case it is the thermal limit that is shutting it down.

  • Anonymous May 22, 2012

    thru trial and error we determined our problem. I will tell here for others use what we did and the outcome.
    Furnace problem when using AC

    Ac was turned on....compressor outside and blower inside came on as normal....2-3 mins late, with thermostat still calling for cooling, inside blower shut off. We imme. shut off AC to protect from freezeup.

    We figured: 1st that motor had over heated tripping the thermal protection. We turned on heat and it ran like normal til heat satisfied. OK, no thermal tripped.

    2nd we thought perhaps a relay had gone bad or the high speed of the 3 speed motor had gone bad.

    We looked at the electrical schematic for the old board and found the wiring for the (cool black wire) high speed, the (heat red wire) low speed, and two more plugs, one holding a blue wire that said (med speed) and one with no wire.

    There was an addendum on the blue wire that said you could use a yellow wire for med high and an orange wire for med lo. There were no wires this color on the old board

    old board was 1 hi cool black wire
    2 lo speed heat red wire
    3 med hi blue wire
    4 med lo no wire

    new board was 1 black we assumed high speed for cool as color matched old board
    2 yellow we assumed med hi speed, per addendum for blue wire old bd
    3 red we assumed lo speed for heat as color matched old board
    4 orange we assumed med lo speed, per addendum for blue wire old bd

    Now we have the missing colored wires from the old board to use.

    So we thought each wire might have it own relay and if the high speed cooling relay was tripping, the other wires relays should be fine.

    So we then unplugged the high speed black wire going to the motor from the board and plugged the red wire (lo speed) for heat to the circuit board in place of the black (hi speed) wire.

    We then turned power back on to AC and furnace. Set the thermostat to call for AC and everything came on and worked fine all the way thru to thermostat shutting it down when temperature satisfied.

    We found that lo speed red wire was too low a speed to give much flow to the heavy cooled air, so we put the red wire for lo speed heat back where it belonged.

    We then took the yellow wire assumed to be med-hi speed, per the old boards addendum, and connected it to the high speed cool (black) plug on the circuit board and redid our test of the functioning of the AC.

    The AC and blower came on together and ran til thermostat shut everything down on temperature satisfaction.

    Our AC is working......and we deduce that the problem is not a relay, because the relay did not trip and shut the blower down prematurely after the wire change told the blower motor to use a different speed than high.

    We have decided that its a blower motor failure in the high speed circuitry of its 3 speed motor, as the other speeds work with no blower shutdowns. Need to replace motor or let it run at medium speed. Which to be determined.
    hope this helps someone else in diagnosing a problem

  • Anonymous May 22, 2012

    Furnace problem when using ACAc was turned on....compressor outside and blower insidecame on as normal....2-3 mins late, with thermostat still calling forcooling, inside blower shut off. We imme. shut off AC to protect fromfreezeup.We figured: 1st that motor had over heated tripping thethermal protection. We turned on heatand it ran like normal til heat satisfied. OK, no thermal tripped.2nd we thought perhaps a relay had gone bad or the highspeed of the 3 speed motor had gone bad.We looked at the electrical schematic for the old board andfound the wiring for the (cool black wire) high speed, the (heat red wire) lowspeed, and two more plugs, one holding a blue wire that said (med speed) andone with no wire. There was an addendum on the blue wire that said you coulduse a yellow wire for med high and an orange wire for med lo. There were no wires this color on the oldboardold board was 1 hi cool black wire 2 lo speed heat red wire 3 med hi blue wire 4 med lo no wirenew board was 1 black we assumed high speed for cool ascolor matched old board 2 yellow we assumed med hi speed,per addendum for blue wire old bd 3 red we assumed lo speed for heat as color matched old board 4 orange we assumed med lo speed,per addendum for blue wire old bdNow we have the missing colored wires from the old board touse.So we thought each wire might have it own relay and if thehigh speed cooling relay was tripping, the other wires relays should befine. So we then unplugged the high speed black wire going to themotor from the board and plugged the red wire (lo speed) for heat to thecircuit board in place of the black (hi speed) wire. We then turned power back on to AC and furnace. Set the thermostat to call for AC andeverything came on and worked fine all the way thru to thermostat shutting itdown when temperature satisfied.We found that lo speed red wire was too low a speed to givemuch flow to the heavy cooled air, so we put the red wire for lo speed heatback where it belonged.We then took the yellow wire assumed to be med-hi speed, perthe old boards addendum, and connected it to the high speed cool (black) plugon the circuit board and redid our test of the functioning of the AC. The AC and blower came on together and ran til thermostatshut everything down on temperature satisfaction.Our AC is working......and we deduce that the problem is nota relay, because the relay did not trip and shut the blower down prematurelyafter the wire change told the blower motor to use a different speed than high.We have decided that its ablower motor failure in the high speed circuitry of its 3 speed motor, as theother speeds work with no blower shutdowns. Need to replace motor or let it run at medium speed. Which to be determined.

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  • Contributor 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jul 09, 2013
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My central AC unit decided to stop on the hottest day of the year. It would start and run normally for a few minutes and then the blower would shut off. After checking the breakers, thermostat and overflow shut off (did not have one) I saw something about a blower motor capacitor. This was easy to get to and replace and my last hope before waiting for someone to come fix it. The capacitor cost $4.04 with tax and had my AC working again. Needless to say I was beyond happy. I hope this can help others with a similar problem.

5 Related Answers

Bill Long

  • 606 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 09, 2009

SOURCE: RV air conditioner. Compressor running, fan stops before cool

The fan motor is getting hot and going off on the internal overload in the motor.
This is caused by either a low voltage, a bad capacitor, or tight or dry bearings in the motor.
To check the bearings turn the power off to the unit, then spin the fan blade if it spins freely then the bearings are ok.
To check the capacitor you will need some kind of tester or you can buy a capacitor and replace it, that's what a lot of people do. They usually don't cost very much.
To check the voltage you will need a voltmeter and measure the volts at the unit.

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Anonymous

  • 18 Answers
  • Posted on May 15, 2008

SOURCE: Inside blower not starting every time

This should have a time delay sequencer for the blower in the a/c mode. These are bad about being interminent in the a/c mode and also in fan. I have had some that would freeze up and I would get there and the fan be running. Thaw out and check and everything be ok. Got to cycling the fan on and off and sooner or later it would get where fan didn't come on. After replacement the customer didn't have anymore problem. Check the rely, looks like a heat sequencer but mounted on plate to blower compartment.

Anonymous

  • 478 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 12, 2009

SOURCE: Amana 1 ton Residential AC / Outside unit comes on for a sec

open the service panel to check for control voltage of 24volts when tstat calling, The contactor should be pulled in, if contactor is down,and contacts appear to be clean, and the unit is still not running, it is a bad compressor. to test this unplug the black wire from the compressoror at contactor,w/ power off! Turn on power if fan works normally it's a bad compressor. However if you see a swollen split cap(5 wires to a soup can looking w/ the terminal C,F,and Comp), switch it first and start at square one.
You also need to consider the high pressure switch if its cycling on off on off.

Anonymous

  • 1420 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 04, 2007

SOURCE: no cooling after power out, indicator lights pattern not in manual

The Mitsubishi units have to be reset by turning off the indoor units by switching the remote or thermostat to off. Then turn off the breaker to the outside unit(s). After 30 seconds,turn on the breaker and then you can turn on the remote for cool. If no lights come on on the inside units, most likely you have blown a fuse soldered on the main PC board. At this point, call your technician. A goos tech will be able to wire in an in-line fuse holder so if it should happen again, you can easily replace the fuse. If you do see a light or two come on at the indoor unit but the outdoor unit does not start after 3 or 4 minutes, sounds like you will need to call a technician. Most likely you have a blown fuse on the main PC board of the outside unit. It is not an easy one to replace. Good Luck!

Anonymous

  • 158 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 01, 2009

SOURCE: DuoTherm compressor starts but will not continue to run

check condenser fan if running. it will make compressor comes on and off if broken

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0helpful
2answers

Until now this unit has never had the compressor run without the fan. Is the compressor running without the fan a problem? If so, what can I do to correct it?

Possibly a tstat issue. Run system until satisfied, once satisfied indoor fan shuts down compressor still runs remove tstat face plate and see if compressor shuts down. Another issue could be a sticking contactor for compressor. With a meter you could check at the contactor to see if you lose your 24volts for cooling but contactor remains pulled in.
0helpful
2answers

My unit blows out cool air for maybe 3mins. Then warm air

Normal ACs (non inverter) work in the following way
  • The AC compressor runs continuously till set temperature is reached in the room
  • The compressor then switches off, but the blower fan in the wall mounter unit keeps running. Durint this time the AC fan blows air out at Room temperature (which feels warmer)
  • When temperature of room rises then compressor starts running again. During theis period the air coming out from the inner uny is cooled by the condenser coils
  • And the process is repeated.... as long as you keep AC running
Ac works this way throught the operation period.
Now if you feel that your AC keeps switching off and on very frequently check the following
  • Your AC may be over powered for room *for example a 1.5 ton AC installed in a scenario where 1 ton is enough)
  • If there is voltage fluctuation in your area then the compressor may keep shutting don on large voltage swings
    • Solution: Get a Stabilizer
  • You have set the temperature setting too high. Max temp suggested for ACs is 25 degree Celsius, any higher will mean the compressor shuts down often. Remember every compressor shutdown and startup draws a high starting current
    • Set AC temperatures between 22 and 24 degrees Celsius
  • The thermostat/ Temperature sensor is faulty
    • Get unit inspected by Authorized technician
  • There is dust buildup on the outer unit / compressor unit. The dust buildup may cause overheating by preventing efficient heat exchange, This may lead to overheating of compressor and it shuts down to, prevent damage to itself
    • Get unit serviced by Authorized technician
  • The fan motor of the outer unit is not working properly
    • Get unit inspected by Authorized technician
Remember to get the AC serviced at least thrice a year to ensure smooth operation
Cool Thoughts... Cool Life !!!
0helpful
2answers

2002 4 ton Bryant air conditioner shuts off, fan still runs but not cooling is problem in the controls in the attic or in the AC unit or both?

With a non heat pump it is a simple 24 volt AC control circuit. In the attic there is a relay that is actuated via the fan control wire directly from the thermostat. On the thermostat there is an auto/man switch that controls the fan. Manual the fan runs all the time. Auto fan turns on and off with the outside compressor.

If the system is not calling for cool and the fan continues to run the fan relay is sticking. common problem. Sometimes after running for several days the relay will stop sticking if not, replace relay.

If the system is calling for cool and the compressor stops I would still expect the fan to run until thermostat tells the A/C to off. Some compressor units include a safety switch or high-pressure cut-out switch A blocked internal valve bad control board or external fan in outside unit defective no air flow in outside unit.
High pressure cut out not good,

Suggest turning temp max cool and observe. If acceptable cool and the compressor runs without interruption all is good, except for the blower in the attic. Safely check relay in attic blower circuit.

Hope this helps.

thermostat-heat-cool-fan-on-czwsw2ci0layswcsyy3dj4dr-4-2.jpg

basic-thermostat-wiring-diagram-czwsw2ci0layswcsyy3dj4dr-4-5.jpg
0helpful
1answer

Unit stopped cooling, inside unit runs, outside unit does not

could be a gas leak ( low gas pressure shut off switch, failed start run capacitor for the compressor , vermin problem shorting out the power board outside
The inside unit is just a fan
call an accredited ac technician to get a proper diagnosis and quote
0helpful
2answers

Why is my air conditioner unit only running properly on cool days? when its hot out it only runs about 5 mins at a time then shuts off to fan and dont come back on for another 20 mins.

Do you hear a click sound as the compressor shuts down? If so that is the clixon (heat sensitive circuit breaker) that is opening and shutting down the compressor when it overheats. You have not had the AC filled with refrigerant so overfilling the unit cannot be an issue.
And if it is not overfilled overheating is caused by excessive current going into the motor which could indicate a problem with the motor windings..

OR, If the thermostat is faulty it could be prematurely shutting down the compressor. If you jump (bypass) the therm and unit does not shut off then you have found the culprit.
1helpful
1answer

AC compressor and fan work furnace fan does not.

Likely have a faulty blower motor module.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_092728000e6acb79

1helpful
2answers

Cooling begins then indoor blower stops...outside unit continues to run

I had the same problem,if you do not monitor that you will make matters worst and burn the Compressor.your problem is the blower unit it has three speed sometimes four.it needs to be changed..
0helpful
2answers

Sometimes, when the inside blower shuts down, the outside compressor and fan motor continue to run for some time. Other times, when the inside fan motor is running, the outside fan and compressor motors...

The thermostat has a timer on the on- cycle (5 min delay for the outside unit and blower inside) if you are not gonna call a service guy then ( for $25) you can go to homedepot (whatever you got out there) and buy a honeywell vertical digital heat and ac t'stat.
this one doesnt require you to set it up for a particular application. this may solve your problem. but as for warm air out of the registers you need a service guy to check that
1helpful
1answer
0helpful
1answer

Ac set at 74 room temp up to 78 and no Ac kicking on.

it could be the thermostat is loose on the subbase or if you went from OFF to COOL and the stat is a digital stat It will not come on for five min. This is a delay set by the manufacture to protect the compressor. during normal operation you will not notice because thier will be more than 5 min from the time it shuts of till it need to come back on but if the system switch is set to off and you switch to cool or unit just shut off it will always delay 5min. usualy there will be some insdiction on the screen that it is in delay like a flashing COOL or SNOW FLAKE or the word WAIT. the unit will not be running until the flashing words go solid
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