Hisense 40 inch tv wont turn on - Hisense LCD1504 15 in. Television

I know this is way old but I hope the answer guy here reads this. FYI, Radio Shak carried better parts than most of the manufacturers, especially the ones that mass produce these junk devices from these overseas companies that love cramming this cheap (to make) junk down our throats. They also had better parts than you'll find in any box store and most hardware stores except Ace, True Value, and the few small town mom and pop ones that are still trying to hang on while the places where you probably get your parts are forcing them out of business with the cheap junk they sell and lack of any knowledge because they hire teenagers and people from other fields who are just there to try make ends meet that don't care about their jobs, or you, or the junk you're trying to fix. The few that do know anything are the ones that are forced to work there because they got shut down because of that so not only are they really mad about it, they don't care about you or the junk you're trying to fix either because you are the reason they are miserable. And sadly, that's also why Radio Shak is gone too. I don't know where you got the idea that Radio Shak sold cheap stuff. I still have quite a few things that are either Realistic/Tandy products or were fixed with parts from Radio Shack and they've outlasted all the other junk I've had from every major brand name that you can remember fixing and probably a few others. My NOVA40s still sound better than any $300 bluetooth wireless open air pieces of junk you can get now, and although I have a nice new Onkyo 5.2 AV system that, if I'm really lucky if I get 4 or 5 years out of, I still have all my original Realistic stereo components besides the Techniques equalizer (because I like sliders and lights better than dials and needle view meters) and the Bose towers that back up the Realistic bookshelves for the old school "surround sound", and all work as good as the day I bought them back in the early 80s
You'd be better off telling people that there's probably another reason why the fuse or capacitor or resistor or transformer melted in the first place and that replacing the fuse probably won't do anything other than blow another fuse (no matter where they get it from) and that the unit should either be serviced by a professional technician or replaced. (ROLLEYES) Some people's kids!

I see so many here with no sound/nopicture issues:

ISSUES:

1. IF sound main fuse/s are good.
2. If no power or standby check main fuse, standby power supply and any signsof damage you can see---burnt parts etc.
3. almost all these sets the troubleshooting involves checking voltages on the main power board to narrow down theproblem.
4. Be safe and if you do not know what you are doing don't open the set.

Answers to issues:

1. RE:fuses---if a blown fuse is found get a good replacement(not the genericones like Radio Shack). Many fuses are special even aside from amperage--Don'tput a higher rated amperage fuse in the set for any reason.

2. RE: power supply in set: if total dead aside from main fuse the set uses astandby power supply that runs 7/24 and a main supply (some are combined andsome not.

Here aside from checking fuses you want to examine all the filter caps on thepower/standby to see if any are puffed up or buldged up in some fashion--Iattach a photo of a good one---top should be silver metal and PERFECTLY flatand have no brown material coming out on top or bottom.

What happens in the standby area is they use caps with too low a voltage rating(saves money) which causes them to fail in a year or two---the standby runs7/24 and the heat dries out the caps and they fail.

3. Trouble shooting consists of the above and then at some point you have to buyand try a board to see if it fixes it or not.

4. Safety first--no TV set is worth getting injured or even killed over.If set isopened at least look for puffed up and bad caps like in this photo