Freewheel on Mavic SSC-SL turns with tire/wheel rotation
I am trying to determine how to properly lubricate (maybe disassemble) my rear wheel hub. When the tire/wheel rotates the freewheel and chain will rotate (if I'm not clipped in). I believe that my Mavic SSC-SL wheels are about 2004-5 vintage and are in great shape. I have removed the cassette and need to know if I need to further disassemble in order to better lubricate. Bearings appear to be good as there is no noticeable friction/grinding when the wheel rotates (I held the . On the freewheel side of the cassette, it has a 5mm allen wrench fitting; on the non-drive side, there is nothing. I may need an axle vise to remove this safely. Also, to lubricate would I use mineral oil (Mavic recommends mineral oil I believe) for wheel bearings. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Re: freewheel on Mavic SSC-SL turns with tire/wheel...
Not sure if you ever got a response. I can help with half the issue. These Mavic SSC-SL wheels are a breeze to disassemble the rear hub (I've done so many times). I have these wheels on road bikes AND cross bikes. You DON'T need (nor want to use a vise). Yes, the one side is a 5 mm allen key. While the other side seems like it has nothing, you can actually (with your hand) simply grab the black axle and pull it away/off the hub. It will be a bit stubborn, but trust me, it comes off. There is an O-ring on the inside that simply keeps it sealed and on. Once you have that part off, you now insert a 10 mm allen key. With the 5mm in the other side, you can now twist and remove the entire axle and freehub. Careful, the freehub will now come off the axle, exposing the seals, a washer, AND 2 pawls that are in place by springs. Be careful not to lose the springs.
There's not much to it. Now simply inspect, lube and reassemble. Btw, this is also how you change your wheel from a Shimano hub to a campy hub.
Re: freewheel on Mavic SSC-SL turns with tire/wheel...
Can you help with this problem? When descending at fairly high speed if I freewheel at all in any gears below about 23 tooth a really awful screaming noise is heard from the rear cassette and the chain jumps all over the place. There are no other problems with the gears i.e indexing skipping gears. Thanks.
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Single speed bikes are often known as Fixed gearor fixie bikes.
But Most people don't know the difference between a fixie and a single speed bike.
It's all in the hub
Mechanically, the difference is so small that you might not spot it even when you are looking for it. It all comes down to the rear hub and how the single cog is connected to the rest of the drivetrain. Single speeds are fitted with a freewheel cog that rotates freely one way but locks up the other. This means that the cog will turn the rear wheel when you pump those pedals, but then freewheel when the rear wheel starts turning faster than the cog - much like a geared bike.
When it comes to Fixies, it has no mechanism on the hub. The cog is fixed into the hub. If the rear wheel turns, the cog turns, and if the cog turns, the pedals turn with that. I admit the difference is not so small, but one that has a huge effect on how a bike rides and requires some consideration before you decide on a bike.
If you want to know more about Single speed and fixed gear bike
Have look on this Gear bike review Blog.
The spring that engages the teeth of the freewheel is broken.
The disassembly of the rear hub is not easy.
Look up the instructions for this repair on the manufacturers website for your model.
Allow several hours for this repair.
Special tools are usually required.
I am not familiar with this model, but you will either have a coaster type brake hub (pedal backwards to apply brakes) or you will have a freewheel type of hub that allows you to rotate the cranks backward without engaging anything.
If you have a coaster brake type hub then you will need to rebuild the hub, which is too complicated to explain in this post. Take it to your local bike shop (LBS) and buy a new wheel for about $25 - $50.
If you have a freewheel hub, then what is happening is the pawls inside the freewheel or the cassette are not engaging. They are activated by small springs within the freewheel or cassette. The springs could be broken, the pawls could be broken or a likely scenario is that the grease inside has become sticky or the pawls are rusty. You can try flushing it out with some Liquid Wrench or WD40 oil, by squirting the lube in the side of the freewheel/cassette (squirting it on the teeth of the cogs will do nothing). Look at the side of the hub around the axle, if you rotate the freewheel backwards you will see where it rotates around a stationary part and this is where you can squirt the oil in. It will take a few shots of oil and rotating the freewheel at the same time to work the oil into the pawls and springs. You can disassemble the freewheel/cassette but this requires specialized tools that most consumer don't have but they can be purchased at you LBS.
Alternatively, buy a new freewheel/cassette hub and you are in business. It requires a special tool to remove so once again, go to your LBS and they can remove it in a just a few seconds and install a new one just as quick and probably only charge you a nominal amount to do it ($10-20, which is the cost of the tool, but how often do you need to remove your freewheel, right?). A BMX freewheel is as cheap as $15 and up and a cassette varies from $10-50 depending on brand and quality.
Good luck, P.S. if you go the "oil flush" route, it will destroy the grease inside and you will have to squirt a little oil in there on a frequent basis to keep things running smooth.
I believe you'll have to undo the spoke at the rim end (Mavic uses a torx style head on the nipple). With the hub end of the spoke, looks like a ball but with two flat sides. When the spoke is tensioned it seats the ball end into the straight pull flange. This style is used in pretty much all of Mavic's high end wheel sets (Road or Mountain). Some have a plastic clip-on type cover. This can be removed with a flat head screwdriver. Good Luck!
Too take the Freehub off of the hub body is fairly simple on Mavic. You will need either Mavic Mineral oil, a lightweight mineral oil or other very light lubricant when you are done with cleaning. This can be tricky to find and you may need to enlist the help of your local bike shop to get some or the equivelant.
You will have to soak it with a lubricant that doesn't evaporate. It would be easier if you could remove the freewheel but you might have to soak a rag with penetrating oil mixed with a good quality chain oil and pack it around the freewheel and let it soak in. Spray lubes are good but you need something in there that will free up and lubricate the springs and pawls inside the freewheel. You might also try buying a micro lubricator at a good hobby store and squirting the lubricant in the crack where the locking nut is on the face of the freewheel. The micro lubricator looks like a hypodermic syringe. The thing that comes in refill kits for ink cartridges for printers would probably work too. The trick is to get the thicker viscosity lubricant inside the freewheel.