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Question about Toshiba 57h83 57-inch Hdtv-ready Theaterwide Projection Tv

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How to hook at&t uverse cable box

The cable guy thought the tv was broken, but i have perfect picture for movies and games. i need advice on hooking the cable box up so that i can have picture on the tv. if it will require an adapter of some kind, or work at all. thanks for any advice

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SD Tech

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  • Toshiba Master
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If set works with games etc via rear audio/video jacks do the same with cable----get a cable box with audio/video etc outputs on it and go from them to ones on the rear of set----no coax connection needed and a better picture.

Posted on May 20, 2012

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Anonymous

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SOURCE: sound is out for all inputs on Toshiba 51HX83

There is a switch on the back of the TV for center input. Make sure you have this set to OFF.

Posted on Dec 28, 2008

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T.l. Moore

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SOURCE: My Toshiba 55" TheaterviewHD works

it sounds like a convergence problem and there are different settings for 720 and 1080 in the service registers

Posted on Jan 16, 2009

SD Tech

SD Tech

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SOURCE: I just hooked up a HD cable box. However, cannot

This is a early HD set---what I call first generation--IT DOES NOT HAVE THE 16 X 9 FORMAT.

Many of the early HD sets are like this--4 x 3 or letter box type HD picture only.

Sorry to give you bad news but based on the model number it does not have 16 X 9 format.

If this helped you rate this solution as I do this here for free.

SD TECH

Posted on Dec 10, 2009

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Anonymous

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SOURCE: basic cable scrambled on ANT input but not PIP

it sounds like you have the common problem with these models. The poblem has occured so offten that toshiba issued a service bulliteen about it. There is a problem with a cuircit board called the Hypermodule its a signal processing board/ the ideal situation would be replaced this board but it has happen so much it may be difficult to find this ooard so this board can be repaird. The secound problem is to fix this board 11 very very small parts called capacitors need to be replaced. i have also replace these and only someone advance in solder should attempt it very small. twezers and magnifer. You can hire someone but it very labor intensive. Our shop charges 300 just in labor It can be fixed but I would adviise its just no worth it

Posted on Dec 10, 2009

Anonymous

  • 178 Answers

SOURCE: picture scrambled

unsolder a box behind the input board, (take it out or place it in carefully, do not force). Replace 11(10u/16v) capacitors, as you see on the picture.2267865.jpg

Posted on May 16, 2010

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Whirlpool Side by Side American style Fridge Freezer too hot and too cold! I have model S20D FSS10-A/D Service number 8586 161 15000 Side By side FF - and after replacing many components on the rear board 13 years ago it has been running well. However.... with a new fault I am hoping that the symptoms may allow someone to point me in the right direction. Not having a circuit diagram has been a hindrance. Over last few years the front panel inside in the fridge in my model has been developing a display fault - it started with the LED display winking out briefly about twice a second. The mark/space of time for the 'winking out' changed slowly to 50% on 50% off twice a second to eventually become just flashing on briefly twice a second and finally off all the time. However, the default settings/functioning of the FF has been working fine so didn't need to use the panel. However, can't read any fault codes that might be there I don't think that the buttons are doing anything on the panel. It has 15v supply but I don't know what supply voltage from the rear PCB should be. Then... A few weeks ago the house RCD tripped once and the fridge bulb had blown ********* stain on bulb interior and Relay RL3 was chattering randomly - I took the board out and noticed a fried circuit track where it looped thinly either side of component hole that was unused. I soldered in a bridge over the gap. Restarted the FF. From then the freezer cools to -32c and warms up to -2c and down to -32 etc.. The fridge varies in temp but does go as low as 0c and high as +9c. Alongside this, when the compressor is not running we can heard a ticking noise and identified that the compressor fan was turning slowly about ?100 rpm There's no ice build up, the freezer to fridge air louvres are opening and closing when you switch the FF on, and do seem to open and close at different times. The evapourator fan seems fine as does the compressor fan, the bottom of the fridge is dust free and the rear panels are all on to allow proper cooling of the condensor motor. I pulled the board again, checked all the capacitors I have a slightly different board to many and all the capacitors I had used from one brand have failed again. I took all the caps out and measured them. C6, C16 should have been 0.68uF and were in the order of a few nF C14, 26, 27,28 should have been 0.1uF and were 0,.6nF, 2nF, 10nF and 38nF respectively. All other film and electrolytic capacitors were within tolerance. I replaced all the faulty caps thinking that I had found the display problem because you had told me in the past that C6 and C16 relate to the front panel and the cooling issues and fan issues but NONE had been cured :- I checked the continuity to the front panel of all connectiions and they're fine. Also checked the 2 electrolytics on the front board. So I am at a bit of a loss. I have checked the zener diodes in situ and all have about 6v forward voltage drop I cannot find a replacement board due to different connectors on my unit - so unless I can fix we will have to fork out for a new FF :-

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