I have ZX750 kicker amplifier powering my two 12" Kicker Subwoofers and a MTX 400 watt 4-channel amp powering my four door speakers. Everything in my system was working fine for a couple weeks after I got it installed, but then my subwoofers started to make a clicking noise and slowly died out. After the subwoofers had died out, my door speakers began skipping until they also had stopped working completely.
I checked all the connections and wiring and everything seems to be in place, the red light on my Kicker amplfier has turned on and my other MTX amplifier will not light up anymore when i turn on my car. I think it may be a blown fuse but i checked both the fuses on both of my amps and they are not blown.
What do you think the problem could be? If it is a blown fuse, which one should i check?
If your amplifier has the internal Kicker card dealie "little computer card on the side that you can change out crossover settings and such," Turn off the vehicle, remove this device and make sure the contacts on the card are clean and free from black soot (showing a spark). clean the contacts with a pencil eraser or something hard but soft...
and put the little card back in place, start the car again and see if that helps,
I used to lose one speaker every once in a while with the same amp. I ended up replacing the module with a different one from my dealer and it worked fine (still does and it's been in my car 6 years).
Check that little module.
if this doesnt work, while the car is running and the music is "playing" wiggle the card and see if it works sometimes and not others. Likely is the little module.
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600 Watt to 1000 Watt 4 CHANNEL AMP for the four 6X9's and a less powerfull 4 Channel amp thats at least 200Watts to 400Watts peak for the 3 3-1/2 kicker speakers. Because if you try to connect the 3 3-1/2 speakers to only 1 4 channel amp that the 6X9 speakers are on you risk of overheating the amp and blowing the speakers too!!!
All amps aren't created equal. More exspense amps put out "cleaner" power. You need to know what the RMS power rating is for the amp at 8 ohms and 4 ohms. Also, is the speaker an 8 or 4 ohm speaker? How you wire a speaker or speakers (series or paralell) can change the ohms (resistence) which will change the power put out of the amp. Also, I'm assuming you are setting it up in mono?
For maximum power, you'll need to wire the subs so that they present a 2 ohm load to the sub outputs on your amp. That will give you the full 420 watts RMS the amp is rated for. Likewise, you,ll want the run the front 4-channels at 2 ohms. Run separately, they produce 85 Watts times 4 channels, or if bridged, 130 watts times 2-channels. But if you run fronts at 4 ohms, they only produce 70 watts times 4 channels and your sub output at 4 ohms drops to 210 watts.
first whats the range in terms of WATTS that your 12" sub can handle in 4 OHMS ? second , lets check the AMP , POWER ACOUSTIK 1800 WATTS , Now thats a lot of power to drive a single 12" sub speaker . your amp is 1800 watts , per channel is around 500 watts , if BRIDGE thats around 1600 watts rms for ONE channel , if your sub can handle that kind of wattage fine , but it will not blow the amp , what it does is shuts down , some kind of protection mode , it will come back on after a minute or so. I suggest to use one channel in stereo mode , or purchase another sub to use the other channel. i hope this helps AJ