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Question about Samsung 26.0 Cu. Ft. Side-by-Side Refrigerator, RS265LABP

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Samsung Model No.RS2533SW Refrigerator

The evaporator coil keeps freezing up on refrigerator side of my appliance. This refrigerator has a duel cooling system. I replaced the fan motor but that didnt help. The coil doesnt seem to have a defrost mechenism on it. Am I missing it? I go to the part web site and cant find a heater fot the coil. Can you help?

Posted by Ken Blankenship on

  • andyfilm Dec 11, 2007

    I'm having the exact same problem with this refrigerator. I have to manually defrost the coils with a blow dryer every couple of weeks. Was the problem ever solved? I'm thinking this may have to do with the board becuase it sees susceptible to power surges. It will get zapped and not work occasionaly.

  • Anonymous Jan 07, 2009

    I have the same problem. Refrigerator not de-frosting. If I take the whole unit outside and clean it with water and wait, ice in refrigerator side will melt and both freezer and referigerator would work OK for a week or so. Called Samsung but they are useless.Keeps telling me to call service people. I have called them and paid $100 but service people say change evrythig like fan motors, switch on the door and board circuit. I have done that but still refregerator do not work after a week or so. Tired of moving the unit outside defrost it. Can any one in this whole univese help us. We lost food worth $500 to $800 so far.
    call me if you have answers 407 888-2142


3 Answers

dean devolpi

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Here is what I did, all parts on my fridge worked, i tested all sensors and so on. so you must rule out all non-functioning parts. when defrosted I opened it and with everything plugged in, yet accessable I put it in manual defrost and could see the water drip. So i noticed it really did not get hot enough. so I put in a 2.2 Kohm resistor in seris to the from the samsung chart it brings it upto 90degrees vs 60. and I also took a piece of aluminum flashing and wrapped it around the upper heat tube and had it slide all the way to the drain plug, it was about 6 inches wide on the top and tapered fown to about a quater inch as it goes in the drain tostop that area from freezing up. my fridge was freezing up 3-4 weeks, and it has been 6 weeks and it has not frooooze up.

I have two of these fridges that do exactly the same thing and all parts work. So I will test the second one after i domy testing for 2-3 months and try to report back. email me if you want more details, i will post somewhere.

dean devolpi

Posted on May 31, 2011

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  • dean devolpi Dec 02, 2011

    so my tweeks have now worked for 7-8 months. adding the heat diffusers and the resistor in series to the thermostat to change the shut off temperature of the defrost cycle. I have not had to unplug the fridge for 3 days to defrost it in all that time. when before I could not go past 3 weeks.

    So by shifting the defrost cycle to be on longer my concern was I might cause the heater element to burn out. This apparently to date has not happened which makes sense since it was not defrosting it enough. If there was going to be a problem should have had a critical failure by now. But that is why I did put in the heat diffusers in place, to prevent hot spots . I now own a cheap infrared temperature reader that would have been handy to find the hotspots ($25.00 at radio shack). I did it by touch before and found these areas to be significantly hotter. They were hot...

    I note this fix is for when the fridge coils freeze up and everything is working, that you know the defrost element works.. My fridge worked fine for years and would do this only once a year a couple years ago and escalated to every 3 weeks.

    i have pictures of this at

  • dean devolpi Oct 24, 2013

    has been working without a problem now for over 2 years now. again coils use to freeze up every 2-3 months. Have two similar samsungs and both did this and both work fine. I bought my fridges used and I am assuming this is why they were sold so cheap. so about $1.00 of materials and you have it repaired.

  • dean devolpi Nov 12, 2014

    at three years now and still working great. from having to emplty it out ever few weeks-months to let it defrost to now it works fine with a 20 cent resistor and some flashing/heat pipes.

  • dean devolpi Sep 07, 2017

    6 years later still working on one fridge and I did it to a second 4 years ago. On the second one it lasted 4 or so years and the timer relay must have gone out because absolutely no voltage to the defrost coils. So I now really cheat on it, I disconnected the connection and wired it externally from the fridge to a mechanical 15 minute 120VAC timer switch that you find in home depot generally for fans in bathrooms. Everyday I set the fridge into manual defrost mode and turn on the timer for 15 minutes and it works perfectly for 1 year now. It is another Samsung model, thay seem to all operate the sameish.



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The evap coil freezing up is likely due to the defrost cycle not working. The little defrost t-stat looks like a little disc with wires coming out of epoxy. If that is swollen or the expoxy is popped up at all it's bad. You can check it for continuity if you have a multimeter. The next thing would be the defrost timer itself that is bad, the last and least likely item to fail is the heating element itself, you can also check it for the proper ohm value to make sure it's OK.

Posted on Dec 29, 2006

  • Anonymous Dec 29, 2006

    Oh yeah, on the drawing item 12 & 13 are the bi-metal and thermistor. If all that is good then the control board in the back is the next culprit since it takes the info from all those sensors to decide what to do (defrost or not, etc.)



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My ice maker has stopped working. Water is not flowing to the fridge at all

Posted on Aug 09, 2009

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Freezer too cold

A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer

  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)

  • The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.


Whirpool Imperial Series UltraEase II side by side refrigerator is leaking from underneath the left side.

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Samsung fridge RS2545SH every 7 days freezes fridge coil.

Hey how yo doing? on most refriderator there are two important parts to keeping freezer from freezing over, they are the bimetal thermostat and ice pipe heater. The bimetal therostat is a preset thermostat that ranges from 54degrees farenheit to about 60, when the coils (inside the freezer compartment behind the back panel) reach the preset temp. it closes a circuit and send electricity to the ice pipe heater, to warm the freezer coils preventing from freezing over. if any one of those components fail, your freezer will continue to freeze solid until there is no more space for ice to build on coils decreasing air flow from the evaporator fan blowing air into your fridge.To test you will minor knowledge on using a multimeter.(REMEBER TO UNPLUG REFRIDGERATOR BEFORE SERVICING, IF YOU UNCOMFORTABLE WORKING ON APPLIANCE PLEASE CONTACT A PROFFESIONAL REPAIR SERVICE..) If you'd like to continue please respond.
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