I connected all the wiring and when i turn the car on, the red light stays on for a second and then fades off but the fan continues to stay on. There is no audio output to the sub other than a quick popping noise when the light turns on. i checked the voltage and everything checks out fine. i am transferring the system to my new car and it worked fine in my old car. I have tried connecting the power control wire straight to the battery to see if my unit wasn't giving off enough power to keep the amp on, i got the same result.
Try using a better ground. while new cars are great, they also have more paint and plastic in the works...so finding a good ground for your amp to run off of isnt always easy. you can try running a gbround cable straight to the negative terminal of your battery to test the amp, poor grounding is the most comon cause of amp failure. ps,the fan may be staying on as a protective service, as if your amp loses ground whenpowered up it will keep the cicuit boardfrom heating up on voltage surges.
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Red from switch goes to two blacks, blue from switch goes to two blacks and the black wire goes thru top of light and attaches to blue fan light wire. If you want a good fan, look for blade pitch(13 degree or higher)Or CFM's above 5500 on high.
There are some fan models (particularly with a remote control) that use multiple cycles of a single power switch to select the operating mode. For example, if you simply flip the switch on, you get the fan. If you flip it on, then off, then on again within one second, you get the light. If you flip the switch on - off - on - off - on, you get both. The trick is to do it fast enough so the internal power circuit doesn't run out of capacitor charge and forget what you're trying to get it to do.
Make sure the power is off.
Connect ALL White wires together -- from the ceiling box, the fan and the lights.
Connect the Black wire from the switch to the Black wire in the ceiling box.
Connect the Red wire to the Black wire on the Fan. That should activate on the first pull
Connect the Blue wire to the 4 black wires coming from the lights. That should activate on the second pull.
The third pull should activate both. To change the order, swap the connections to the Red and Blue wires.
You connected red and white wires together. No problem, nothing burned out, and it's simple to fix. Steps below.
RT1 is electronic countdown timer, and electronic timer clock inside needs separate circuit, just like your alarm clock needs to be plugged in. >> that's why timer has white wire. White wire completes circuit to timer clock.
Timer-black-wire to Hot; Timer-red-wire to Load (lights)
Timer-white-wire to Neutral. Heres
what to do 1) Timer-green-wire connects to bare ground
wire. 2) Switch has 2 wires. Take switch wires and connect them to timer-black-wire and
timer-red-wire. Choose either one for now.
In back of electric box are white wires twisted together and covered
with wire nut. Connect timer-white to these wires. 4) If electric box does not have white wires described above, then
connect timer-white to bare ground. 5)
Turn on electricity, and push countdown button. If lights come on, timer
is wired correctly. If lights do not come on, then reverse timer-red
and timer-black wires.
red-power wire to power when ignition is on.yellow-battery back-up to powersource that stays live when car shut off.black-ground wire.blue-remote turn on for amplifier.blue/white-power antenna.orange or orange/white-dimmer to make deck lights fade when headlights get turned on.white and grey are your front speakers and green and purple are the rear,not sure about speaker sides though
This is a short or unstable ohm load. Remove all speaker wire connections to see if the amp will stay on.
If the problem goes away when disconnecting the speaker wires try this:
1) Check volume level on zone one and zone 2 if connected. If it is too high the amp will go into protect mode and shut off exactly as you described.
2) Make sure no wires are touching any other wire or the metal surface of the amp. This will cause a short and send the amp into protect mode.
Red CRT is doing short circuit in the neck. You can try to open the front panel and to hit easy the neck with wood or something and to decrease the red screen a bit. If doesn't work then replace the CRT.
Don't use the intercooler, it's really not good for the console. I'm not sure what could be causing the 'fading' effect, I don't think I've ever heard of this. Call Microsoft and explain your situation, there may also be more info on your problem on sites like xbox-scene.com or llamma. Sorry I can't be of more help but please rate if at all useful, thanks!