Question about Maytag MSD2756GES Side by Side Refrigerator
Posted by Anonymous on
Tduck, what the tech was refering to is the adaptive defrost board. This is a common failure on these models. You are going to find it in the refrigerator side. Remove the temp control end knobs from the controllers. Remove the screws holding the light shield. Now in the back on each side you will see a tab that pushes in and the cover will pull straight out. This sometimes can be difficult task, those tabs are a real pain. Now you will remove the screws holding the defrost timer cover and the defrost timer will be in the back on the right side. On this defrost board you will see L1 and test right next to eachother. Using a small screw driver short across these terminals with the harness on. This will put the refrigerator into the defrost. If it goes into defrost and jumps right back out, you know it's the defrost board. The defrost bi-metal will be normally closed and open to terminate the defrost. So if your evaporator is warm, it will not go into defrost. You should be able to get a breakdown of this at Sears.com, go to appliance parts and enter your model number. Usually the adaptive defrost board is the culprit, I don't see too many heaters or bi-metals (defrost terminators) go bad. Your part number for the board is 61003990 for series 10. See if your serial number starts with 10.....Catriver..post back.
Posted on Dec 24, 2006
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thanks catriver, I did find the board thanks to you and I did jumper the L1 and test and nothing happened. I ohmed out the heater coil and it checked good and I also jumpered 115vac to it and verified my heater element is good. Im a little confused on how the circuit actually works. does the thermostadt in the freezer(clips onto the evaporator coil) does this get less resistance with cold and will turn on the defrost cycle.I was getting 115 vac on the wh/blk wire and Im assuming that when the board is working it sends a neutral to the yellow wires?I know my board must be bad but knowing how it works seems to be my biggest problem. oh and when I removed the covers from the freezer section the can came out with it does the fan point up to blow air away from the condenser or down on the condenser. I must have put it in wrong because my fridge is not getting cold now, freezer works great(less the defroster until I get the part) thanks
after rereading what you wrote are you saying the bimetal is the part that snaps to the condenser line. I see where it says it should read 240k ohms and it does(is this concidered open(hi resistance)? sorry late at night and was not a good day.
How did you find this board that apparently no one can get to? I took apart most of the temperature control section and cant locate this infamous board. Please advise.