Evoca 115 stopped working after 22 shots

Some of these functions are not available when other options are set on the camera. HDR and handheld night mode aren't available if you are saving the images with the Quality set to RAW or either RAW + JPEG option. It doesn't work with still pictures when in movie mode. HDR is also not compatible with the Time Lapse Shot or Auto Shoot in Stop-Motion Mode. I'm not sure if there are similar limits with the Panoramic shot mode.

See the advanced manuals available on the Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ300 product page, http://shop.panasonic.com/cameras-and-camcorders/cameras/lumix-point-and-shoot-cameras/DMC-FZ300K.html , for these restrictions. The direct link to the manual is currently ftp://ftp.panasonic.com/camera/om/dmc-fz300_en_adv_om.pdf . Page 78 covers the Handheld Night Shot and page 126 covers the HDR mode. Look in the box with the blue background for these limits.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

If it EVER works, then the problem is not a failed part, but a weak part. The most likely component type to give you such problems are capacitors. But very few repair techs know how to find such problems, and even fewer have the equipment needed to find the bad one(s) in-circuit. The failure mode is high ESR (ESR means Equivalent Series Resistance). The lower the ESR, the better. Capacitors with high ESR cannot stabilize circuits which demand high pulse currents, such as in switch mode power supplies.

No it doesn't. The head unit is faulty and requires repair/replacement.

the green light blinking is normal if set has been unplugged--when set is plugged back it should blink for about 70 seconds and then go out--then you can try to turn it on---it is the DM unit inside the set booting up.

If the light just blinks and never stops you have likely bad caps in the DM unit---there are kits available for that.

The other possible reason is that so called reset switch may be bad--fairly easy way to find that out and it is more common than you would think, let me know if you have questions.

SD TECH

Hi your unit has lens unit defectiveness. It won't reset itself initializing. The noise come from initializing IS unit defect. your local repair shop would charge around $45 to 115 depend on what they really want to charge. thanks and best regard!

I won't say it's in the manual.

Turn the selector to the square "camera" icon (just above AUTO).

Press the Menu button, select Panorama. Choose Combine In Camera 1.

Point your camera at the left or right side of whatever you are taking the picture of and press the shutter button. A flashing icon appears with arrows pointing left-and-right. Pan the camera left or right (your choice) as if to take the next shot in the panorama ... a blinking diamond appears and then a square box - keep moving the camera until the diamond enters the square box, the camera will automatically take the next photo. Move the camera again in the same direction, another diamond and square box appear and the photo is automatically taken as before.

To take another panorama shot, repeat this entire procedure, beginning with the Menu selection.

that the camera/flash set-up I use ... there are many variables - iso/metering setting/shutter settings/flash settings .
If it's a flash function problem, try this to isolate it - first, with the diffuser/reflectors tucked into the flash head, and the head straight up, with the flash set in master mode, turn it on and look on the back screen. push the mode button til you see the ETTL in the upper left of the screen .. then press the set button in the center of the dial and the nuber in the center of the display should flash (+0) while the light is flashing, rotate the dial to change the setting (i usually under power by 1/3 stop. Play with the exposures a few times to get the feel for what the EV shifts do to your exposure. generally speaking, for interior low-light, i prefer to bounce off the ceiling (if low ceilinged), if there's too much direct it will give you an uneven and predominantly underexposed image.
if you prees the mode button you will come to the same options for adjusting the output in manual mode, but it will not work with the autoexposure in the camera.
Try playing with the ETTL settings
I think the problem may be that you have somehow altered the power output setting on the 580.

If your mower does not have "OHV", overhead valves. You can use a Champion j19lm spark plug.
If you discover you do have overhead valves; A Champion RC12YC, will work.

A panoramic photo on 35mm film is just cutting off the top and bottom. even if you can't set the camera that way, you can ask your local photo store to print any shot that way for you. Usually 2x the price of 4x6.

I had similar symptoms as well until it finally died: 1) First started eating batteries like crazy, especially standard AA and rechargeables. The CRV3 seemed to work a bit longer. 2) One day out of nowhere the autofocus stopped working. I replaced the batteries and it worked again for 10 shots. Then the autofocus stopped working and battery died (with the lens stuck open). Pressing power, the LCD backlight flashes on, the LED in the view finder blinks, and the lens motor makes noise. Then nothing just stuck open. 3) Again new batteries and was able to close lens, take a few pictures and dead again with lens stuck open - same problem in 2. 4) Replaced the batteries a couple times and was able to get a shot or two off, and now its complete stuck open, even with brand new batteries - with same problem in 2 it just won't turn on. I finally sent it to Samsung the week of Christmas. I called Friday 1/7/05 to check and had to leave a voicemail. They called back Monday 1/10/05 to let me know they recieved it and that I should call back Thursday to check its status.