Not Cooling The Compressor and the defrost heater opperate at the same time. The timer has been checked and the timer opperates okay. (Defrost fuse had been changed due to being overheated.)

The timer should last a lot longer than that, but I have received bad ones right out of the box. Depending on model year, the full current of the compressor and the defrost heater are present in the defrost timer contacts. The defrost heater should be checked with a volt-ohm meter if continued icing takes place. The defrost heater will have a positive ohm reading if it is okay. If the meter reads infinity or 0.0 ohms, the heater is bad.

Hi,

During this time of defrost you manually advanced into, Did the heater turn off them self? If they did the defrost thermostat does work, if the heaters stayed on the entire time (1hr) than the thermostat needs to be replaced as well as the timer. The thermostat is a cut off device to prevent the over heating of the freezer and liner (safety device). Think of a defrost timer as an egg timer, this timer runs regardless of function just advances like a clock. The thermostat turns off the heaters when they reach a temp rather then time. I hope this answered your question, good luck

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

Kenmore Model Numbers Look Like 795.513012

Turn the timer slowly clockwise until the compressor and fans stop. Leave the timer alone in that position that turned the compressor and fans off for up to 35 minutes. In the first few minutes after the timer turned fans and compressor off you should be getting defrost. If timer comes on by itself and you have defrost results the timer and defrost heater are good. If the timer does not turn the refrigerator back on but the defrost took place then replace the timer. Every different refrigerator or freezer has a different amount of time on for cooling and time off for defrost so it is important to know what the model number is to answer the part number and time off/on ratio. What is the model number of the refrigerator that the timer is on? Sea Breeze

Can you locate the model number of your Kenmore? The number should look like this 521.345678 and located around the inside of the fresh food section door.

It could be that the defrost heater came on the time you were watching bugt may have a bad connection or a defective defrost element. You need to test the heater for continuity to assure that the element is not broken. the defrost timer and defrost thermostat being new eliminates that as being the problem so I think your element or the connection is the most next likely cause, Let me know I don't mind helping, Thanks Sea Breeze

Defrost Heater Testing for Continuity

A DEFROST TIMER is a cycling device, it times the frequency and duration that the defrost heater coils melt the ice that builds up around the evaporator coils. If ice is allowed to build up, air will not be able to freely flow past them - resulting in reduced efficiency and sometimes a drastic warming of the cooling unit.



Most of the time, the defrost timer is in the cooling mode, allowing the compressor to activate when the thermostat signals it to. The remaining part of the cycle (usually less than 30 minutes)the timer is in defrost mode. In this mode, it signals the defrost heaters to melt the ice build up on the coils. This defrost action is limited by the defrost thermostat. If your DETROST TIMER go to bad, one symptom would be if your refrigerator is not cooling. Although there are many causes of this symptom, A stuck defrost timer can be one of them. The timer can get stuck in cooling (compressor activated) or defrost mode (defrost heaters activated) for usually two reasons:
- The timer motor can fail for one.
- The gears can also become locked up.

No matter what the reason is or which mode the defrost timer gets stuck in, the refrigerator can stop cooling. When the refrigerator is stuck in defrost mode, the compressor no longer comes on to cool the unit. If the timer gets stuck in cooling mode, the evaporator coils never get a chance to defrost, causing ice build-up to the point where there is a complete blockage of airflow past the coils.

The defrost timer can also cause the refrigerator to stop cooling due to failure of the internal switch which activates either the compressor or heater coils. Finally, when doing any repair on a refrigerator, check the condenser coils for dust buildup and clean accordingly.

According woth yur brand and model, look the part replacement in this link: partselect.com/refrigerator+test-defrost-timer+repair.

Good luck.

Open following links for 8145-20 wiring diagram and resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/8145-20-wiring-350.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/Paragon-timers-and-manuals.html#defrost

8145-20 is 240Volt defrost timer.
Heat strip and compressor should not activate at same time.
As a general rule heater connects to NO terminal 3 and compressor connects to NC terminal 4
NC terminal 3 compressor is on all the time until defrost cycle begins.
NO terminal 4 heat turns on when defrost cycle begins, and at same time NC terminal 3 compressor turns off.
At then end of the defrost cycle, NO terminal heat turns off and NC terminal 3 compressor turns on again.

Hello,


Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 – Find the Problem

Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:

* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
* Evaporator fan – Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
* Air damper – Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
* Condenser coils – Check to see that the condenser coils don’t have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
* Compressor – Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.

Step 2 – Frost-Free Failure

This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 – Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 – Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven’t got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn’t work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.

Hope this helpout in solving the problem

twist your defrost timer with a screwdriver clocwise till it will click and compressor shut off, check voltage on defrost heater. You should have 120volts.When wait 20 min if compressor start up back and defrost heater is off ...your timer is fine. It can come on early then 20 min....
P.S. defrost heater located on the bottom of the coil, also make sure your defrost thermostat is frozen when you going to check voltage on your heater. Thermostat located on the top of your coil.

you need to take freezer evaperator cover off , then turn it to defrost and test the supply voltage across the defrost element. if no volts then test the round disk looking thing with 2 wirers comming out of it . with the supply power removed from the power point, the coil frozen up , disconnect these wirers and use a continuity checker such as a multy meter on diode check or buzzer mode, you should have a closed circuit through the defrost termination thermostat (round disk with 2 wirers) , it is in series with the defrost element thus cutting the power to the element if the coil temp gets too high and terminates the element , the timer will time out after it's time duration is reached. A good way to test the motor in the timer is to put a texta mark on the dial of the timer and check it in 1/2 hr, to see if it has moved.AFTER YOU HAVE PUT THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS BACK AFTER TESTING THE TERMINATIN THERMOSTAT AND MADE IT SAFE, YOU WOULD PLUG IT BACK IN.
The defrost timer needs to be connected to power of the fridge to opperate.
regards
****. let me know your progress pls.