Tank temp Our School Dist. has a Hobart dishwasher Model AM 15 T. After filling the unit it reaches a tank temp. of approx. 160 F, but when it is run through a couple cycles the temp. falls below 140 F, the min. wash temp is 150 F. The supply from the hot water tank is approx. 140 F. The rinse cycle reaches well above the 180 F min. Is there anyway to adjust the tank temp. on this model or could you suggest a solution to the problem. Thank-you John Fry

I found this website that can help you further.
Hobart Kitchen Appliance Product Support ManualsOnline com

Sounds right. The level may be an issue with fill solenoid rather than tank floats. Also, is the drain overflow blocked?

If it's drain water and filling with water at the same time your drain hose is lower than the water fill line of the washer. try raising the drain hose up higher

make sure all the curtains are there ,also check for any baffles missing from mach. should be 2 1 on incoming side 1 on outgoing, also ck hood vents had problem before with vents wide open sucking heat right out of warewasher

How hot is the wash temp?It should be 150-165 degrees.The model is an am14 not an am15?I'm hobart tech and repair these units weekly.Let ne know.

I'm a hobart tech and repair these units often.I can tell you this---If you open up the control panel and see water the wash tank has a crack in it.If this is the case depending on the serial number you may be able to get a new dishwasher.What happens is the water gets onto the electronics and shorts out.What is the exact serial number,model number and ml number?How old is it and where are you located?Have you had any repairs done by hobart or any other service company?

Sorry so late for the reply.Im a hobart tech and i dont recall this model of your unit,are you sure the model isnt a am-14 or am-15?

Hopefully you took the suggestion to run the correct 50 amp 208-240 service to the unit.

Converting the unit to an LX30C has a couple of pitfalls. The LX30C is connected directly to the incoming water supply, which should run 120-140 degrees. By reprogramming the unit as an LX30C, the booster would be disabled, which would mean the incoming water would flow through the de-energized booster and be cooling off while it sits in there between cycles and when the unit is shut down.

The incoming fill plumbing (5/8" heater hose) would have to reconnected from the fill solenoid valve directly to the vacuum breaker on the rear of the unit to bypass the booster heater.

On the 208-240 volt LX18/30/40's, the pump motor, booster heater, and sump heater run on 208-240. To convert it to 120 volts you would have to replace the sump heater and reconfigure the motor wiring in the motor junction box.

By the time this is all done, you've downgraded a great machine, confused the next service guy, and have to deal with nasty chlorine and all of it's headaches.

I

E2 means a problem with the fill. The wrench means to contact Hobart for service

On the machine that we have, there are two [2]push button switches in line for the heater tank. One is on the front of the tank and the other is around the right side. I have always called them clicks-on's but.. they are red in color and need to be rested if ever they get to hot. Be sure to relise that they did infact pop for some resone. Did the tank for some resone run dry?